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g10 engine removal; Know where I can find instructions?1
Topic Started: Aug 5 2012, 01:00 PM (2,722 Views)
red92
Advanced Member
[ *  *  *  * ]
Got to pull my engine can I do it from the top?
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evmetro


Yea. Stick a floor jack under the bell housing to manipulate it and support it. You can scoop it out with you arms.
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starscream5000
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Got 70 MPG?

Here is the thread you're looking for. A little word of advice though, take the transmission out at the same time, you'll thank me later :thumb
http://geometroforum.com/topic/2539369/1/
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evmetro


Use a cherry picker if you have one. If not these motors dont weigh much
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t3ragtop
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

i always pull the engine and transmission as a power unit from the top.

it's much easier to pull the whole lump out from the top and then do any further disassembly and reassembly with the power unit on the ground (or bench.)

most of the time i pop the intake and exhaust manifolds off and leave them in the chassis. i just take the block and transmission out. that saves some time as you don't have to disconnect wiring and coolant lines to get the basic power unit out of the car.
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evmetro


I agree with starscream on pulling it as a unit, but if you don't have a cherry picker, it does not make that much of a difference to leave the tranny in. Just pull the crank pulley
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starscream5000
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Got 70 MPG?

Why the crank pulley? To make a little extra wiggle room?
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Memphis metro


Why are you pulling the engine out of the car?
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evmetro


Starscream, when you slide the motor off of the tranny, the outer crank pulley hits the frame rail. It takes very little time to remove the pulley. This way you can leave the suspension and axles alone.
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starscream5000
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Got 70 MPG?

I don't remember having that issue when pulling Unicron7's engine a few years ago, but I think we did unhook a motor mount first to lower the engine. Makes sense though to remove the pulley.
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rydholm11211
Big sky

If you are not stupid it is pretty easy to remove an engine, if you are stupid, then you might want to have your girlfriend do it for you!
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evmetro


I would be willing to bear the title of stupid to see a woman remove my motor...
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red92
Advanced Member
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I've got a spare engine that i rebuilt and ran for a few months.

The engine i want to pull has a burnt valve.

I thought I'd swap engines and rebuild the one I pull.

Thanks to all for the advice except for the getting my girlfriend to pull the engine. I don't think my wife will be to cool with that.

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cwatkin


I just did the same basic swap as this person. I had a good car with an engine that had a burned valve and a bad car with a good engine. If needed, I feel I could change out an engine in one of these cars in an afternoon on the side of the road with only jack and metric socket set. Here is basically how it is done.

1. Remove all harness and ground connections.
2. Put jack under engine in oil pan area. Use a block of wood or something else to prevent damage to the oil pan from the jack.
3. Unbolt engine from front passenger side mount and let down with the jack.
4. Remove belt and pulleys from crank and water pump.
5. Remove alternator (entire thing, not just pulley)
6. Remove timing cover and belt.
7. Remove crank sprocket used to drive the timing belt (this gives you a slight bit more room).
8. Remove the starter and the associated cover.
9. Remove the exhaust bolts from the manifold (may be difficult - use PB Blaster and impact or breaker bar)
10. Remove flywheel dust cover underneath car.
11. Remove 3 bolts between engine and bell housing. Two are on top of the engine and one is down near where the exhaust comes out of the manifold.
12. Remove 1 nut on stud for bell housing directly below where starter was located. You may not be able to see or access this until the starter is removed so remove it as an earlier step.
13. Pull the engine free of the transmission. This may take some wiggling, etc. but it should come out and clear the passenger fender area if all the parts I suggest removing early on are pulled.

This is pretty simple process and I did it all by myself without any help. I could have borrowed a cherry picker but figured I could lift the engine myself and didn't want to take all the axles, etc. apart. If you are strong at all, you can pick up the engine and reinstall by yourself.

While I had my engine out, I replaced the PCV valve (make sure to clean out that hose as it gets NASTY), cleaned the EGR system, replaced ALL seals and gaskets as most were leaking due to the bad PCV, replaced the water pump, replaced the timing belt and tensioner, replaced the clutch although it wasn't completely dead, and gave the engine a general overall cleaning up. I wouldn't worry about some of these things if they are fine and you are just doing this while you rebuild the other engine but if you plan to run this one for a while, I do suggest these replacements.

Since I have two engines as you do, I kept the best parts from the two engines as spares which I plan to carry in the car on longer trips. This includes belts/hoses as well as the timing belt/tensioner, alternator, starter, and water pump. Many of these parts are "special order" and not stocked at the parts store in town. This could leave you stranded if the car broke down and you couldn't find parts. I figure my old parts are good enough to get me home and I picked from the best of each as they came off the engines.

I am now stripping the other car for parts and then plan to scrap it. I have only a few interior parts left and need to get a few last things such as fuel and brake lines, axle shafts/transmission, hubs, gas tank/filler, etc. off the car.

Conor
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crankcase


My two cents: :type

Remove engine with transmission and throttle body attached if possible. It make things easier and we loose about 50 steps leaving the throttle body attached.

For the transmission: Drain fluid, remove wheels, axle nut, pinch bolt holding ball joint.
Hammer control arm down to pop ball joint out, swing knuckle out of way, pry half shafts off transmission.
Remove both shafts for the shifter going to transmission, remove clutch cable, speedo cable, and transmission
ground located on clutch cable bracket.

Remove: battery, battery tray, all cables from starter, and coil wire that goes to the distributor. Drain radiator, remove heater core hoses. Remove radiator and air breather hose (for extra wiggle room). Disconnect connectors from wiring harness. Most can only go onto their mate, so that helps. Disconnect intake and exhaust manifolds from block. The throttle body stays on intake manifold; the whole thing can be tied out of the way.

Put tension on the engine from a hoist or jack. Remove all parts from transmission mount from under battery tray, including bracket attached to transmission ( for extra wiggle room), remove the other front engine mount entirely (for wiggle room). Remove 2 bolts from back mount (one on fire wall the other under firewall).

Try to leave AC compressor with car by disconnect from bracket on engine. Leave the lines connected, trying not to break them or their connectors.

Slowly remove engine while checking for overlooked attachments. If possible, use a shop crane or a hoist, especially if transmission is attached. The combo is not that heavy, about 125lbs, but it's awkward.

Install slowly too; look for obstructions and snags.
Edited by crankcase, Aug 12 2012, 03:12 AM.
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