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Water pump leak; leak is worse after replacement
Topic Started: Aug 14 2012, 12:07 AM (1,106 Views)
Foster
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Here's my problem. I had a small leak at the water pump (coolant leaking from under the timing cover). I pulled off the cover and the pump and replaced it with a good used pump and new gasket.
The result, it is leaking worse then before I replaced it. I think I know the problem, in the past when I have done water pumps, I tighten the bolts down firmly, probably around 20 ft. lbs. This time I decided to follow what the reference books say, 115 in. lbs. which I translate to 9.5 - 10ft. lbs.
Are my references wrong about how much torque to put on the bolts, if they are, what is the correct amount of torque. Also what about using RTV instead og a gasket, good idea or not.
I'm going to redo this job tomorrow, be nice to have some opins on this.
Thanks guys.
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96Geoman


I just replaced my water pump because I thought it had gone bad.

I replaced the pump, filled the engine with coolant and discovered the O-Ring on the coolant pipe (back of the pump) had fallen apart.

I purchased a BK 727-2214 O-Ring from NAPA.

This O-Ring size is 1" x 1 1/4" x 1/8" (Inside diameter x outside diameter x width)

I used a small amount of dish washing soap (not dishwasher soap) and water to lubricate the O-Ring for installation.

Note: There's a small screw underneath the intake manifold that holds the coolant pipe strap to the block.
Edited by 96Geoman, Aug 14 2012, 08:52 AM.
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Foster
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Thanks, that was my first thought when I checked for leaks but it is solid which made me happy. I hate changing out that pipe more then doing the water pump.
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georandy
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I'd be too afraid to use a used water pump.

The directions that came with mine said it might leak from a weap hole and then stop initially. Mine did not. Is yours leaking from a weaphole?

I did a 320 grit block sand on the block and put a very thin coat of Ultra RTV on it, then a very thin coat of RTV on the water pump and adhered the gasket to the water pump. Then put bolts and nuts on finger tight, then cross tightened 3 more times until spec's. I know Johnny said they only have to be snug, but I went with the specs you have. Glen said the ultra RTV is easier to clean off next time. :)

I think Ultra RTV would be just fine without a gasket, but I am no authority and have not done it on a Metro.

Best of luck.
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Foster
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Thanks Randy, I just spoke with my guy at Carquest, and he said the RTV would work, though I was thinking of doing like you did. Do you have the torque setting for the Geo water pump. My book said 115 inch lbs which really isn't enough. Normally I would tighten the bolts firmly, about 20 lbs. which has always worked in the past.
The pump was new on another block which threw a rod, had less then a 1000 miles on it.
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crankcase


Can you tell where it is leaking from exactly? If the leak is around the pump it almost has to be uncleaned gasket surface, oring on pipe bad or not seated properly. The used pump could be bad too, check the lower weep hole.
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bansheetaz


do not use rtv on water pumps. it might leak, it might not.

this way wont leak...

take off your pump and clean both mating surfaces.
get a new gasket.
glue the gasket to the pump with 3m weatherstrip adhesive or gasket adhesive, its the same stuff, yellow or black snot. and let it sit for a bit.
on the engine side of the gasket use indianhead or felpro gasket sealer, its brown and sticky.
bolt it back on and torque to 115 INCH POUNDS

no more leak, (atleast not from the gasket)

there is no other way to do water pump gaskets on any vehicle



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Foster
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ok here's what's happened. I cleaned all the surfaces, put RTV on the block face, seated the gasket over it, then I put RTV on pump face. Mounted the pump and tightened it down to aprox. 20 ft.lbs. No leaks from the pump, but there was still coolant leaking down the back of the engine. I figured it was the o ring on the pipe. on closer inspection (crawing under the car and getting rained on) I determined the coolant was coming out near the starter, very close to the bracket that holds the pipe to the block. So I drained the coolant and removed the pipe. I couldn't se a hole but there were some suspicious marks on the pipe, like someone had put a pipe wrench on it. I cleaned the pipe and stuck my eye up thethe straight end and shined a very bright LED spotlight on the outsde. After much maneuvering I spotted a little pinhole of light (little is an understatement). I buffed all the paint of the area, still couldn't see it so finally I got out a 10X jewelers loupe and found the hole. It is smaller then the point on a sewing needle. I probably could of gotten by using some bars leak but instead I welded a a collar of thin sheet iron around the pipe making sure to completely cover the area of the hole and the gouge marks that I found. After reinstalling the pipe and putting coolant back in, I'm happy to say there are no leaks and all is right in my Geo world.
Thanks for all the advice.
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