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Other ways to make a Metro run better?; Besides the obvious of course!
Topic Started: Aug 15 2012, 10:25 AM (932 Views)
cwatkin


I have my 1994 Metro running pretty well now and it seems to be getting good mileage and not using any oil. This involved an engine swap among other replacements. While the good engine was out of the good car, I changed the water pump, timing belt/tensioner, front cam/crank seals, rear main seal, resealed valve cover and oil pan, new oil pump gasket, replaced PCV and cleaned hose/passages (likely culprit for my leaky seals/gaskets), cleaned EGR, gave a cooling system flush/fill, flushed engine with cheap oil and Seafoam, replaced water pump/alternator belt, replaced plugs/wires/cap/rotor, replaced clutch, flushed and refilled transmission, replaced fuel filter, replaced thermostat, new front brake pads and rotors, new front control arms/tie rod ends, lubed steering rack, patched and rustproofed some rusty areas, basic paint touch-up (more to come), and surely something I have forgotten.

I am not sure if it is just the 3 cylinder and the way they run, but it still seems a little rough at idle although it is smooth as can be at speed. I have been told to replace all vacuum lines for good measure and the small air filter on the MAP sensor line which I plan to do soon. I added some MMO to the gas tank and this seems to have been around the time the idle got a little rougher so I may have added a little too much. I also notice an "up down" sound to the idle like it runs a tad faster and slower. I have seen references to a fast or racing idle but this isn't running fast. If anything, it might be a little slow. The idle changes noticeably when I turn on/off the headlights due to alternator loading.

Another thing is that is is more likely to stall out when cold. What should I look at replacing/cleaning to fix this or is this normal? It is warm outside right now but it is best to let it run a few seconds before starting off. This might also be related to too much MMO in the gas as it isn't really that volatile.

Is there anything else anyone would suggest? Overall the car seems to be running great and I will trust it to run across the country in no time if all continues to go well. I was just wondering if what I experience is normal or not.

Thanks,

Conor
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Old Man


All I keep up exactly is oil changes. Most other maintenance is left too long. If I get a little shake in the front end I ignore it til it gets annoying. same with other stuff. If it starts, runs, little or no oil use, good gas mileage and is otherwise reliable, I keep my fingers out of it until it YELLS at me for attention.------too many times I have "fixed" a small item to find that I created a larger thing somewhere else.
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

Naturally it is recommended that you do a compression test: http://geometroforum.com/topic/2574993/1/

You can check for errant spark with a spray bottle of Windex (Jittney's suggestion): LATER... (EDIT: had to run off for an hour.)



For better running, since our Geos are known to have bad grounds I added a "universal" ground wire kit to both of ours and have not had any electrical problems. Universal Ground Wires $14+

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Edited by Bad Bent, Aug 15 2012, 12:28 PM.
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clarkdw


So, in maintenance costs you have spent about one payment worth on a new car. Not bad considering no new car is going to pay you back with the mileage you will be getting and a new car is depreciating faster than you can pay it off. :D

The cyclic up and down idle and the drop in speed under electrical load can be related to vacuum leaks or to the IAC valve which controls idle speed. First the vac hoses and then look at the IAC repair thread. IAC repair

The little "filter" in the MAP sensor line is not a filter at all but a small orifice to damp down the pressure swings from affecting the MAP sensor. I wouldn't worry about replacing it.

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Jittney
Anchorage 92 XFi

The MMO in the gas isn't a bad idea, but Chevron Techron would be a better choice.
Then give it some time and a couple hundred miles to see if it makes any difference.

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cwatkin


Yep, I pretty much spent one car payment getting this one in tip top shape and not much more than than getting TWO 1994 Metros. The one was otherwise junk but became the donor for the engine and a few other parts. I also have a nice stash of spare parts for my car now that I have pretty much stripped the other car.

I will check for vacuum leaks and will test the IAC as listed in the link you included. Remember I have TWO of these now as I stripped this from the other car in case one is good. It looks like there is no point in replacing it, just bypass by cutting the spring down as shown?

I will use Techron after I have this tank run through. I really don't want to add anything more with the MMO in there.

Thanks,

Conor
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cwatkin


My spare IAC passed the blow test. I will check my other one and then the vacuum lines.

Thanks,

Conor
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Shinrin
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I'd recommend not checking any vacuum lines, just replacing them all.
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Norby
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So true, appearance of a vacuum line can be deceiving as they could be clogged inside.
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cwatkin


I will replace all my lines then as they are cheap compared to the other stuff I have done. I had a short section of 3/8 that I used to replace the worst section of my brake booster line. It was weather cracked but didn't appear to be all the way through the hose. Either way, it was old and dried out so it needed to be replaced. I will get some more line at the parts store tomorrow.

Spent most of today pulling/cleaning the seats and carpet as well as finding and starting on some rust repair/treatment.

Conor
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

That section of brake line you replace was hallow? The brake booster vacuum line may have a valve in it and that can get clogged up. :-/
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cwatkin


I replaced a 3/8 rubber hose in two sections along the firewall and it was hollow (wouldn't expect otherwise). I didn't see any valve or anything but did run Seafoam through the lines to clean the solid metal ones in case it was needed since I hear they carbon up. I haven't replaced all the small lines yet but do notice an improvement. I do see what might be a small green plastic valve on one of the small lines. This is going to the evap canister.

Conor
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