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| Electro Metro; Lotsa pics | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Aug 23 2012, 11:40 PM (15,554 Views) | |
| evmetro | Nov 21 2013, 10:12 PM Post #91 |
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I am stopping by my paint supplier tomorrow to get the stuff for this paint job, so I will ask them if they have something good for this dash when I am there. I will try not to look at any special color chips while I am there. They have lots of pretty color chips there, so it is hard for people like me to not notice them. I really want to keep the factory color... |
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| Mythstae | Nov 21 2013, 10:25 PM Post #92 |
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Ah, yes, good old "95 Blue". |
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| Metromightymouse | Nov 22 2013, 03:49 AM Post #93 |
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Powdercoat Wizard
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The Mouse has been scraped and painted with duplicolor vinyl/ interior paint. Color match is pretty good with the light grey (I think that is what I used). Texas car so the damage was deep. Scraped with a sharp razor blade to dig out all the rotted plastic. Lost some of the wrinkle grain, it isn't as deep but it did retain some of the pattern. Been done for nearly 10 years, didn't pull the dash, just cleaned and prepped it properly, masked, and spray painted it in the parking lot of the apartments. It has picked up some chips where things have hit it, but no flaking. I think Mythstae would agree it doesn't look bad all these years later. MMM |
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| evmetro | Nov 23 2013, 08:24 PM Post #94 |
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I am trying to keep it simple, but these Metros pick up an amazing amount of dings. As I start block up filler on on the bigger ones, more show up. The panels also seem to be crappy stampings, kinda like stuff that comes from China or Taiwan. If you are really picky like I am about how straight the body is before it gets painted, you would think you were working on some kind of economy car or something... Anyway, I ended up filling the whole quarter panel. Now it is straight and up to my standards. Filler before blocking: ![]() Here it is after blocking. Yes, by hand with my favorite 9 inch rubber block. Save the air tools for production stuff, not a beautiful Metro. ![]() Every Metro hood that I have ever done up nice has needed the leading edge filled. I weld up the hood emblem holes on every one since I like the clean look of no moldings or emblems, but there always seems to be a bunch of other waves in the sheetmetal, so I like to get this stuff straight.
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| unplugged5150 | Nov 23 2013, 08:30 PM Post #95 |
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awesome work as always EV. |
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| evmetro | Nov 23 2013, 08:55 PM Post #96 |
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Thanks 5150. Update on the paint for this rig... My car no longer has the paint code affixed to it, so I took one of the tail light filler panels to the paint store to see what they could come up with, and I ended up with "Capriblau Metailic", BMW, 1999 to 2003, Code 471. My paint supplier is a Napa paint store and I picked up a gallon of their "vortex" base. It retails for $547 per gallon and $46 for the reducer, but I get it for a little less since I am a shop. Since I am trying to cut costs a little, I decided to try their 2.1 Euro Clear SL for the clear coat. This stuff retails for $148, plus $76 for the hardener. That is pretty reasonable for a profesional paint system. Naturally, I was not getting out of there for that cheap since I also picked up primer... I use their Pro Base 2.1 gray primer which retails for $162 per gallon and $73 for the hardner, then throw in all the tape, tack rags, roloc disks, mixing cups, body filler, filler spreaders, sandpaper, respirator cartridges and such, and it did not take long to rack up a bill. |
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| PTA2PTB | Nov 23 2013, 09:11 PM Post #97 |
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I'm totally awesome! I swear.
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translation = crap blue metallic?
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| Mythstae | Nov 23 2013, 09:35 PM Post #98 |
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...missed this thread? http://geometroforum.com/topic/1212683/ Go to the link provided... we know it's blue. Begin deductive reasoning. In 95, we've got Scuba Blue Metallic, and Sky Blue Metallic. In 96, we still have Scuba Blue, but not Sky Blue... In 97, we have neither of those shades. Since "95 blue" is specific to 95; and Scuba Blue appears in 96 as well, must be Sky Blue Metallic? Codes: 249A, 49U, WA249A
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| evmetro | Nov 23 2013, 09:53 PM Post #99 |
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Fortunately, it does not matter much what exact paint color is used since this is a complete. Where it begins to matter is when you need to match a panel or two for repair. My guess is that the computer came up with a slightly different color due to the age of the paint and the time in the sun. I should take the time to affix the new code to the car. |
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| PTA2PTB | Nov 23 2013, 09:57 PM Post #100 |
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I'm totally awesome! I swear.
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I hate deductive reasoning; when it comes from someone who will, invariably, inform you that your socks were supposed to have matched your shoes and belt, rather than your slacks, after a night on the town. Just let me think I'm stylish, mmkay? |
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| Mythstae | Nov 23 2013, 10:03 PM Post #101 |
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Just seems like a shame, since you wanted to keep the factory color. The BMW paint is nice, I'm sure, and I'm also sure it must be close. It's just not "factory". |
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| evmetro | Nov 23 2013, 10:13 PM Post #102 |
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I am not particular about maintaining the exact oem color, I just want to reduce the amount of time and detail to do all the jambs with a new color. You can be off by quite a bit on the exterior color vs jamb color. My guess is that the choice of motors in this car knocks me out of the oem club, and that backseat floor might not go unnoticed in an oem restoration show either... |
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| Mythstae | Nov 23 2013, 10:18 PM Post #103 |
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I was just referencing your earlier comment: That's all. ![]() It's going to look great when you're done, anyway.
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| evmetro | Nov 23 2013, 10:26 PM Post #104 |
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I get frequent urges to deviate from the factory color and to go with something more exciting, but the extra work is huge. The 93 is getting close as well, and I am set on something exciting for that one. Definitely not factory color or anything close to it. Lotsa pretty jambs, pretty under the hood, the works... |
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| Mythstae | Nov 23 2013, 10:28 PM Post #105 |
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Make it LOUD! We've seen you do black, blue, now another, lighter blue... pick something that SCREAMS! |
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