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| front brake upgrade?; should I stay with stock | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Aug 30 2012, 01:44 PM (1,372 Views) | |
| HalfGeneral | Aug 30 2012, 01:44 PM Post #1 |
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HalfGeneral
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I have read a little bit about upgrading my front brakes. if I decide to do that, what all will that entail? what are the parts that I will need, and of what other models and years well I need to get them? will this affect tire size and will I have to change rim size and back brakes? is this worth it or should I repair and replace stock parts? what are the pros and cons of upgrading or not upgrading. all help is appreciated thank you. 1991 LSI 3 cyl hatch 2 door
Edited by HalfGeneral, Aug 30 2012, 01:46 PM.
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| 75monzatc | Aug 30 2012, 02:16 PM Post #2 |
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just jeremy
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I am doing this over the weekend to my '93, while I am probably just as new to the idea as you. There are quite a few really good threads here on this changeover, I've found that you get a different list depending on how you phrase your search. I got the complete assembly: steering arms, hubs, rotors and calipers from a 96 Metro that had 13" rims from PnS. I beleive that the brake lines are the same, so will connect to either caliper, the rotors are slotted so better cooling and stopping, the wheel studs are the 12.25mm instead of the little 10mm so then you can use larger rims, you have to use at least a 13" rim to fit over the rotors...12" are too small, I think someone said that you need to change the grease seal behind the bearings facing the CV shaft because the newer CV shafts have a different lip there even though the bearings are the same size...just use the stock seal from your metro. May be something about alignment issues depending on the car, not real sure. Most anything you ever dream of attempting on a Metro seems like you can find it posted here somewhere .
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| t3ragtop | Aug 30 2012, 07:02 PM Post #3 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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i have a slight correction to an anotherwise informative post. the convertible and later model front rotors are "ventilated" but not "slotted" unless you order aftermarket rotors which have had slots milled into the friction surfaces. you can also order them "drilled" which provides better wet environment braking. the slots were used in racing where heavy braking causes the very top surface layer of the pad to cook. the slots act like cutters and peel off a layer of the friction pad to expose fresh material. i don't recommend slotted rotors due to the increased wear on the pucks. the drilled rotors do work as billed. the holes allow water to be squeezed off the rotor surface into the hole spaces. those rotors tend to make the rotors "sing" when you brake, though. one other thing. if you really want to get to "excellent" braking you can do the knuckle swap to the parts for the 13" wheels and then bolt on swift gt calipers (with yokes) and gt rotors that you have turned down 2.5 to 3 mm on their radius (5 or 6 mm on the diameter.) the rotors will mount right up to the 12mm lugs and front hubs and the calipers bolt right on. the swept area is considerably larger and the braking effect is superb. be advised that the gt brakes require using 14" rims to clear the calipers. |
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