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Are these ready to bust ???
Topic Started: Sep 19 2012, 07:42 PM (2,032 Views)
shaft
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I crawled under the Metro today just to check if everything is OK and this is what I found.

Are these brakes lines ready to pop?
Can this be done by sections or do I replace the entire line?

I've never bent any brakes line before so I'm sure it wont be easy.

What tools do I need?

I'm not certain why some line are not rusted and some are. Any tips and advice is greatly apprecaited. Thank you.


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Edited by shaft, Sep 19 2012, 08:20 PM.
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starscream5000
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Got 70 MPG?

Holy crap. You need to replace those lines ASAP. Once they start leaking, you'll loose most if not all of your brakes all in one go. I helped my cousin replace his brake lines on his jeep earlier this year. It's not too hard. The tool used to bend the lines is hand held, just ask the parts store for a brake line bending tool. You may be able to rent one as well.
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75monzatc
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just jeremy

bending lines is easy, just take your time on the flares and your good to go.
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t3ragtop
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

good golly! those are some scary pics!
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shaft
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So please let me know if I can just replace the rusted sections or do I need to the whole line?

Also that piece (circled in red) that is holding the lines in place, how do I remove that? I don't see any bolts or screws holding it in place.

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starscream5000
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Got 70 MPG?

If one section of hardline is rusted, then that entire hardline needs replacing. The retainer may either be riveted on or bolted on. Look closely at it.
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shaft
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starscream5000
Sep 19 2012, 08:32 PM
If one section of hardline is rusted, then that entire hardline needs replacing. The retainer may either be riveted on or bolted on. Look closely at it.
Ok. Looks like I will replacing all the lines.

For the novice, how long you think it will take me to do the job? I need some sort of a estimate so I can plan accordingly.

Edited by shaft, Sep 19 2012, 09:01 PM.
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Stiffchezze
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Sir Metrologist

:oshit
Plan for a full day of labor if you have all the supplies.
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t3ragtop
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

the line clamps' stainless steel wraps around the rubber cushions and the lines and then pushes onto a stud that's welded to the floor pan. once they go on, you nearly almost destroy them pulling them off.

your best bet is to pull them straight down off the car starting at one end and moving one clamp at a time towards the other end. sometimes you get lucky and just bend the tabs that lock the clamps to their studs.

one of those lines is the fuel supply line, another is the fuel return line, and a third is the vent tube for the fuel tank. that only leaves 2 brake lines that you have to deal with but from your pic it looks like you're probably going to break something else just getting the clamps free to replace the brake lines.

i hate rusty cars! :D
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shaft
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Stiffchezze
Sep 19 2012, 09:03 PM
:oshit
Plan for a full day of labor if you have all the supplies.
So how does this work?

Do I remove the old lines and take it to the parts store to get the right lenghts of lines? Or do I just buy a bunch of long lines, take them home and start cutting them?

Sorry for the bunch of stupid questions but I'm just trying to make sense of this whole mess. Frankly I'm very intimidated to tackle this job. Im sure it going to be brutal laying on my back replacing lines.
Edited by shaft, Sep 19 2012, 09:49 PM.
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shaft
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t3ragtop
Sep 19 2012, 09:39 PM
one of those lines is the fuel supply line, another is the fuel return line, and a third is the vent tube for the fuel tank. that only leaves 2 brake lines that you have to deal with but from your pic it looks like you're probably going to break something else just getting the clamps free to replace the brake lines.

Are the brake and fuel lines the same kind?

If I destroy the clamps, are there replacements for them?
Edited by shaft, Sep 19 2012, 09:56 PM.
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Scoobs
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:D

i have a full set of rust free brake lines, off a 4 door :D
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Johnny Mullet
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Fear the Mullet

Buy a 50 foot roll of the new copper alloy brake line in 3/16" size and buy a double flare tool. Start from the proportioning valve on the firewall and use line pliers or good cutting pliers (if rusted bad) and cut the line off behind the fitting. Remove the fitting with a socket and drill through with a 3/16" drill bit in a bench vise. Follow line to opposite end and do the same. Run the new line and use the flaring tool to make the ends. Very time consuming.

Here is a guide............
http://geometroforum.com/topic/1623129/
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shaft
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Johnny Mullet
Sep 19 2012, 10:10 PM
Buy a 50 foot roll of the new copper alloy brake line in 3/16" size and buy a double flare tool. Start from the proportioning valve on the firewall and use line pliers or good cutting pliers (if rusted bad) and cut the line off behind the fitting. Remove the fitting with a socket and drill through with a 3/16" drill bit in a bench vise. Follow line to opposite end and do the same. Run the new line and use the flaring tool to make the ends. Very time consuming.

Here is a guide............
http://geometroforum.com/topic/1623129/
Thank you so much for all the info. This has been great help.

I'm thinking of parking the Metro til I get to replacing the lines this weekend (hopefully). I obviously don't want to take the chance of not having any brakes when I step on the pedal.
Edited by shaft, Sep 19 2012, 10:32 PM.
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Murf 59
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Before you start the repair. Follow each of the line and make sure if its a fuel line or brake line. Just so you know where each one is headed to. Given the choice, I would buy the great used ones from our friend Scoobs. If its one of the fuel lines, you will have to drop the feul tank to install them. Great pics, very helpful.
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