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Are these ready to bust ???
Topic Started: Sep 19 2012, 07:42 PM (2,033 Views)
cpalz
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I also use the copper alloy lines, very easy to work with, will not rust again.
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sphenicie


just a thought for you to concider, from the RUST BELT, there is no real need to remove the line hangers. there are several different styles of 'rubber' coated line hangers. they mount with one self tap/drill screw. use a short screw,3/8 or 1/2 inch.
you can run right next to the old lines.

there are acouple great things about doing it this way.

1) you do not need to disturb the fuel lines that run through the same stock hangers. (damage to fuel lines is likely.)

2) you do not need to waste 2/3 of the 'job time' trying to get those damn hangers out. (it is a big ol pita)

about the onlt thing to watch for is to try to run the new hanger screws where the floor pan is 2 ply, or anyway make sure the screws are not poken through.

really, you do not have to follow the same path of the old lines. the 'braleline' is just like the water pipes in your home. it doesnot matter what route the pipes follow, the water gets to the fauset.

last time i was able to replumb all brake lines, from master to prop valve, and prop valve to each wheel with 25' roll of line,$18. I did not remove any of the old lines, other than in the engine compartment, then just cut off with a side cutter.
in order to make it with a 25' roll, i ran directly as possible.

i will have to revisit this job again, our new 92 has a chunk of line hanging down, looks like it had been dragn on the ground for a while. not lookn forward to this job, but it saves a ton of time to run paralell to existing lines.

good luck, i'll be under there thinkn bout ya man!

PS; i once thought it might be a good idea to just spray the rust with oil (wd40). NO, dont do it. instant leak.



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MR Bill
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Go to the local pull apart and practice taking the line off. This will give
you a head start on the job.
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shaft
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sphenicie
Sep 20 2012, 09:24 AM
last time i was able to replumb all brake lines, from master to prop valve, and prop valve to each wheel with 25' roll of line,$18.


Sphenicie -

Thanks for the idea of having the option to not remove the old lines. That will definitely save me some grief. Just have to find a way to install the new line neatly.

25' roll of line for $18 thats cheap.

Where did you buy your line?

I've been calling the local parts store for the copper alloy brake line and the cheapest I found was $39 for 25 feet with 20% discount from Advance Auto. Napa has them too for the same price.

If I break the fuel line, can I use the new brake line for that ???

What size are the fittings for these lines?
Edited by shaft, Sep 20 2012, 10:11 AM.
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j63812f
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J R

wow those are some rusty lines!
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shaft
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Can I reuse the fittings and does it need thread sealant? What kind?
Edited by shaft, Sep 20 2012, 12:28 PM.
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cpalz
Advanced Member
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No thread sealant. I would get new fittings. 3/16, the parts stores should have them seperate. I know our local NAPA does. Also, as mentioned, just check out the price on the copper alloy lines, it is more expensive, but it will not rust, and is a dream to flare compared to steel, especially for your first time doing it. Good luck, and have fun!!
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490k


Those fittings are metric.

The lines that run along the rocker panel to the front proportioning valve are fairly easy. The lines rear of the rear splitter/junction block thing are a pain in the a$$. I can do them w/o pulling the fuel tank but it's a bitch. I forget the exact lengths but you can get close with complete lines from Carquest, etc. For instance, if you need 40" line, get a 30" and a 10" with a union.

If those are rusty like that, the ones in the rear are too. They usually rot right where those stupid clips are.
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sphenicie


cpalz
Sep 20 2012, 02:04 PM
No thread sealant. I would get new fittings. 3/16, the parts stores should have them seperate. I know our local NAPA does. Also, as mentioned, just check out the price on the copper alloy lines, it is more expensive, but it will not rust, and is a dream to flare compared to steel, especially for your first time doing it. Good luck, and have fun!!
yea, copper alloy more expensive. any parts house can provide either. dont over think this job, but do it right. the last thing you need to do is disrupt more lines.

there is 2-ply floor board everywere you need it. if this is a show car, run your stainless steel lines through the stock pattern and make it shine.

cu alloy good choice, not much more. standard line from 'auto value' $18/25, good nuf for my driver. wifes vert= ss.

dont over think this one. it is a matter of gettn hydrolic pressure from one point to the next. steve out
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shaft
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Job done ! Replaced both rear lines -- from the prop valve to the rear junction block. Thank God I did not have drop the gas tank to remove the fitting, no room to move a wrench but got it done.

I did not pull the old brake lines out (to save time and a ton of headache) and ran the new lines parallel to the old ones.

Thank you all for the great help and advice. It was a great learning experience.



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starscream5000
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Got 70 MPG?

Did you pump on the brakes nice and hard to make sure you didn't have any leaks or any other weak lines? When I helped my cousin do his on the jeep earlier this year, he would replace one bad line, then pump it up, and blow out another rusty line when doing this. We ended up replacing all of the old brake lines because the next weakest link would break once we replaced the ones already leaking.
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shaft
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starscream5000
Sep 23 2012, 09:38 PM
Did you pump on the brakes nice and hard to make sure you didn't have any leaks or any other weak lines? When I helped my cousin do his on the jeep earlier this year, he would replace one bad line, then pump it up, and blow out another rusty line when doing this. We ended up replacing all of the old brake lines because the next weakest link would break once we replaced the ones already leaking.
Yes pumped the brakes hard during the bleeding process and test drive. Did not find any leaks. I will keep checking for leaks for the next few days.

The front brake lines look good.
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calrenman
Just another wrench.

Nice article!
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myoldman2
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:gp :gp :banana that has been a very good imfo. on a problem we all mite face. :congrats :scared i had to on the sons :ermm: good fix :thumb
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