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| Timing belt deflection excess? | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Sep 20 2012, 12:41 PM (1,117 Views) | |
| heckling7 | Sep 20 2012, 12:41 PM Post #1 |
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I checked my timing belt through the rubber peek hole on the housing cover and I noticed its considerably more loose than my altenator belt. Probably twice as loose. I'd guess a deflection of a 1/2". Is that too much? The belt looks ok as there are no frays, cracks or excessive wear. Just alot of dust. I think its the original timing belt as I just went over 100k in miles. While running the belt is clearly not as tight as the altenator belt when viewing. Can I tighten the timing belt my self or does it need to be replaced by a professional? Can it be done without removing any of the altenator components? I see 5 bolts to remove the housing cover, does that sound right? |
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| Deleted User | Sep 20 2012, 12:55 PM Post #2 |
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The recommended service replacement interval for 1996 and after is 100,000 miles. In my opinion, the idler bearing should be replaced, also. |
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| Memphis metro | Sep 20 2012, 01:04 PM Post #3 |
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Keep driving till it breaks. It may never break. |
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| 3tech | Sep 20 2012, 01:15 PM Post #4 |
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Do not tighten it. Timing belts are not supposed to be tight. If it is, it will destroy the tensioner bearing. |
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| heckling7 | Sep 20 2012, 01:24 PM Post #5 |
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Can the tension be adjusted or does a belt need replacing when its a little loose? I peeked down into the housing and there is no cam oil leaks, just belt dust. When I observe the timing belt running through the peep hole it wiggles some, unlike the tight running alterator belt. What would a Chevy dealer charge to replace it typically? Is it a 1 hour labor job? I think the belt is $30 or so. Would it be foolish to keep driving or are they normally a little loose after time? The condition seems good. Thanks for any help.
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| Shinrin | Sep 20 2012, 01:42 PM Post #6 |
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1)Loosen AC pulley 2)Remove Ac belt 3)Loosen Alternator 4)Remove alternator belt 5)Remove bolts on water pump pulley and remove 6)Remove bolts on crankshaft pulley and remove 7)Remove bolts from timing belt cover, remove cover 8)Use a ratchet, turn the camshaft pulley until both timing marks are set up 9)Loosen bolt on timing belt tensioner 10)Either replace tensioner or slide it all the way loose 11)Slide off timing belt, taking care not to move the camshaft pulley 12)Reinstall timing belt 13)Verify marks are still lined up 14)Tighten tensioner 15)Verify marks are still lined up 16)Turn camshaft pulley two full rotations 17)Verify marks are still lined up 18)Verify marks are still lined up 19)Seriously, this is the one thing you can screw up, check those marks and make sure they're right on 20)Test start car, don't let it run long or drive is seeing as there is no turning water pump 21)Reinstall cover, pulleys, belts, tighten all as needed. Not being a mechanic myself, I can knock my timing belt out in 30 minutes. General speaking if you're not familiar with this car, expect an hour or two to do it yourself. Expect $200+ for a mechanic to do it, and expect problems afterwards unless they work on geos often. |
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| heckling7 | Sep 20 2012, 01:54 PM Post #7 |
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Shinrin, Thanks. I was afraid of hearing that. Maybe I'll just buy a belt for now and wait for the old one to break as I do not have the funds to pay a mechanic who may trigger other problems when replacing the belt right now. I bought it at 83,000 miles over 5 years ago and since then I have never let a mechanic touch it as I do all the maintenance myself with the Haynes manual. I think I'll get the shop manual for this task. Is ebay the only source for the shop manual? I've never ordered through it. |
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| clarkdw | Sep 20 2012, 02:55 PM Post #8 |
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Don't tighten the old belt. It will break. My brand new belt is loose because I had 0.050" taken off the head. Most people tighten the belt excessively by putting more tension on it than the factory spring applies. It does not need the extra tension. Mine is loose to the point that I can remove it and reinstall it with no problem without touching the tensioner. I rev the engine to fuel cut (7000 rpm) regularly and have no problems. Do not think of it like a v-belt but more like a bicycle chain. It should not be tight. Just enough to keep the belt wrapped around the sprocket. The pull of the belt on the tension side will keep it seated in the teeth. |
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| heckling7 | Sep 20 2012, 03:16 PM Post #9 |
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clark, Thanks. That is a relief. I really want this car to last as its awesome on highway mileage and I feel I need to be on top of the preventive maintenance aspect to ensure more years of use. So would tightening the belt a little bit affect other things as well as the timing itself? |
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| clarkdw | Sep 20 2012, 03:21 PM Post #10 |
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Tightening the belt will not affect timing. It will shorten the life of the belt and the tensioner bearing. Edit :Just for the "details" people. It will not noticeably affect timing. Edited by clarkdw, Sep 20 2012, 03:23 PM.
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| Shinrin | Sep 20 2012, 03:43 PM Post #11 |
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I put my timing off a tooth like five times in a row before I realized I had too much slack on one side of the belt, and when I tightened it, it moved the cam pulley over a tooth. it's not a hard job to do. If you have a camera, take pictures of every step along the way in case you forget the order to put it back together. |
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| DesmondGhostRider | Sep 20 2012, 04:25 PM Post #12 |
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Agreed with Shinrin on the camera bit. Take pics as you go along and post them. You'd be suprised how much other users will catch wrong with the car just from a pic or two.
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| starscream5000 | Sep 20 2012, 05:12 PM Post #13 |
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Got 70 MPG?
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The inspection hole on the timing cover is showing you the "loose" side of the belt. It's supposed to vibrate around when running. This is normal. The "tight" side of the belt is on the other side where the tensioner bearing is at. If you still have the little spring on the tensioner slide, then your set. Let the spring apply the tension. That's what it's there for. Once you have the belt on and the tensioner bearing and the adjustment slide both loose, you're set to tighten the slide up with the bolt going through it. Then tighten the tensioner bearing to spec (I think it's 20 ft/lbs IIRC) and you're done.
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