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379 shift 2-3; 379 shift 2-3
Topic Started: Sep 21 2012, 08:47 AM (825 Views)
j63812f
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J R

Well after having rebuilt ONE of these, I am still FAR from an expert. My other car has a 379, and the shift from 2 to 3, once warmed, is difficult at times. There is no problem from 4-3, just from 2-3. Knowing how this thing works, it doesnt make much sense that the approach would be different from 2 or from 4 except for the rpm of the gear is probably different.

I thought it was a linkage issue, but have ruled that out. Does anyone else have the same problem?
Edited by j63812f, Sep 21 2012, 08:48 AM.
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75monzatc
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just jeremy

Same problem I have on Vader, upshift 2 to 3 very tough to get in gear, needs soft touch and slight pressure with rpm feather to go in. Down shifting through 3rd not an issue. After flushing my trans multiple times and getting what resembles aluminum dust in the oil ( took 3 flushes before oil wasn't gray) still has not helped, slightly better with syncromesh, but definetly time to do the tranny. Just picked up a PNS tranny (3.79) that I'm going to rebuild for it. I'm guessing syncros in mine, possible gear damage, no clue till I take it apart. :shake
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j63812f
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J R

Wow thats exactly what mine does, if I go very slow in the shift it will work or 'tweak' it as Im going in. Works perfectly cold tho. Its not bad enuff that I feel I need to pull it, but I would be afraid that if I took it apart I wouldnt see anything wrong. My fluid is CLEAN all around. The rest of the unit is silent and no issues.
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metromizer


That symptom sounds like the 3rd gear syncro needs replacing.
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j63812f
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J R

So why would it only be from 2-3 and not 4-3? the approach isnt any different, must be the rpms and they are different for each shift, but then again, if rpms affect the shift then that would be a synchro.

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starscream5000
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Got 70 MPG?

Bent shifter linkage somewhere?
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j63812f
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J R

Hey Chris, nah everything is straight up....when its cold it shifts perfectly but once it gets hot then it I have to work with it a bit to get it in ( sounds dirty) lol

Are you keeping quarters out of reach from your kid? Car running good?

Im hoping to convert my 1.3 to roller rockers and the 97 cam....if that works then I will persue a econ regrind for that cam from Crower since there are som many of those cams available, the cams for the older swifts are nearly impossible to find.
Edited by j63812f, Sep 21 2012, 10:53 AM.
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starscream5000
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Got 70 MPG?

Quarters are all out of reach, we now have that quarter she swallowed made in to a necklace. The final bill for that quarter was $9998.12 :shake
I just filled up this time last week for my first full tank of gas using all of my current recent mods, which include the wheels, cam, gear, and underdrive pulley. I ended up with a 697 mile tank that got me a tad over 70MPG :)
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georandy
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What kind of transmission fluid are you using?
I drained the fluid and put in Pennzoil synchromesh fluid (stocked at advance auto) because mine was bad going to 3rd from either direction (only 3rd). It helped a lot, not perfect but it made a huge difference. 3 quarts is about $25.
http://www.pennzoil.com/other-car-products/transmission-fluids-and-gear-oil/manual-transmission-fluid/
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j63812f
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J R

I drained the 75 -90 and put in standard dxron3 atf, it didnt make any diff at all. The engine rpms DOES affect the ability to go into thrid from 2nd.
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JellyBeanDriver


j63812f
Sep 21 2012, 10:21 AM
So why would it only be from 2-3 and not 4-3? the approach isnt any different, must be the rpms and they are different for each shift, but then again, if rpms affect the shift then that would be a synchro.

It's absolutely different.
From 2-3, the synchro is trying to slow the clutch disc down. From 4-3 the synchro is trying to speed the clutch disc up. You're working different sides of the synchro teeth/dogs.

Same as all of us with 1-2 no problem but 3-2 BIG problems.
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j63812f
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J R

Thats what I thought, after having it apart I knew the approach was the same and figgered that the speed was the only thing that would be different so it def is a synchro issue dammit lol

I know now that I can fix it, its just pulling it out to do it...maybe I should just pull it and put the one in that I just rebuilt. Im hesitant because in the process the selector fell apart for 1-2 and Im not totally positive that I got those 3 little rectangular pieces back in right.....I mean Im 99% sure lol
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j63812f
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J R

I just looked in my magnetic tray and saw these in there, the only pin I recall removing was the one to hold 5th gear selector in place. The pin for 5th was wider than these, but now Im thinking that I missed something?

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