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Just pictures of rebuild progress; the absolutely No leak oil pan
Topic Started: Oct 16 2012, 09:36 PM (972 Views)
Geeeo1
Member
[ *  *  * ]
I have read several posts on oil pan leaks, most likely because of incorrect use of RTV and incorrect RTV First ONLY black RTV on anything, NO RED RTV EVER
spread
an even coating of BLACK RTV on straight clean oil pan about 1/8th to 1/16th" thick. on the entire flange, poke out the bolt holes and now I know someone is gonna jump up and yell but when you work where it takes an entire work day to just remove the oil pan from a vehicle you sure don't want a leak and have to do it again. You learn quick to do it right one time. There can't be as much as the slightest hint of a drop or even the potential of a leak on Army vehicles so....

Once you apply the BLACK RTV set it set over night or even 48 hours then put the pan on.
[IMG][IMG]http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w404/Geeeo1/2012-09-10043_zps87d7c0f1.jpg[/IMG][/IMG]

Anyway I had to post this so anyone still not sure how to correctly use RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanizing) What RTV stands for and the Vulcanizing part means turn to a rubber like substance and this can't happen if you just slam things together with it still not cured completely.
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Memphis metro


For 95 and older I prefer a gasket.
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JellyBeanDriver


Quite a few brands of RTV, and colors. Black doesn't mean much all by itself.

Personally I think surface prep and proper torque AFTER allowing some setup is key.
Edited by JellyBeanDriver, Oct 16 2012, 11:05 PM.
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patrickbruce
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average teenage gearhead

JellyBeanDriver
Oct 16 2012, 11:04 PM
Quite a few brands of RTV, and colors. Black doesn't mean much all by itself.

Personally I think surface prep and proper torque AFTER allowing some setup is key.
:gp
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davegran
Old Fart w/Wrenches

Why? Why black RTV? Why no red RTV? Why won't it cure when assembled before drying? Here is the manufacturer's web page for Red RTV. This is an excerpt from the directions: :deal
Quote:
 
DIRECTIONS FOR USE
For assembly as a form-in-place gasket
1. Remove all previous material from mating surfaces.
Permatex Gasket Remover is recommended for
most materials, not for plastics or painted surfaces.
2. For best results, clean and dry all surfaces with a
residue-free solvent, such as Permatex Brake and
Parts Cleaner.
3. Cut nozzle to desired bead size, 1/16“ to 1/4“ in
diameter. An 1/8” bead is usually sufficient for most
applications.
4. Remove cap, puncture tube or cartridge seal and
attach extension nozzle.
5. Apply a continuous and even bead of silicone to one
surface, first tracing the internal areas of the gasket
configuration, then all surrounding bolt holes as
shown.
6. Assemble parts immediately while silicone is still wet.
7. Finger tighten flange only until material begins to seep
out the sides of the flange.
8. Allow to set for at least two hours and re-torque at
lease one quarter to one half turn.
9. For best results, allow to cure overnight.

OK, I'll answer my own question. :type The black, oil resistant gasket sealer is designed for oil pans. :news
Quote:
 
TYPICAL APPLICATIONS
• Oil pans
• Transmission pans
• Valve covers
• Valves and guides
• Timing gear covers
• Differential covers
rather than high temp applications like:
Quote:
 
TYPICAL APPLICATIONS
•Drive housings
•Exhaust manifolds
•Thermostat housings
•Valve covers
•Timing gear covers
•Water pumps
•Differential covers
and it is assembled wet, the same way as the high temp RTV. So, both will work but the oil resistant black RTV will probably last longer....
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HelterSkelter
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#1 Pizza Driver

blue rhino
Oct 16 2012, 09:47 PM
For 95 and older I prefer a gasket.


yeah, i replaced mine with a cork gasket.
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patrickbruce
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average teenage gearhead

I thought cork gaskets were a bad idea? because of the crank sensor?
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HelterSkelter
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#1 Pizza Driver

mine's fine. no leaks and no problems.
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Woodie
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patrickbruce
Oct 17 2012, 12:36 AM
I thought cork gaskets were a bad idea? because of the crank sensor?
95 and older don't have a crank sensor.

I see no reason why black only is so important when there are plenty of twenty year old Metros running around with the factory orange RTV still working fine.
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Mythstae
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Black RTV will basically glue your oil pan on. Had to take mine off and reseal it... it was a nightmare. It was replaced with red.
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Geeeo1
Member
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Ok assembling immediately but still allowing to cure all night same procedure different approach I prefer red because it makes a better gasket in the applications I have used it for. Most often I see very inexperienced "mechanics" use red on things that for some unknown reason black would have done better opinion.
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Geeeo1
Member
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I was also warned that an oil pan gasket was a poor idea due to crank to reluctor gap I took the advice and used RTV and been ok.
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t3ragtop
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

heck, when i built my blue monster g10t i used blue rtv to color match my powder coated parts. :D
Posted Image

it's much more important that your selection of rtv is o2 sensor safe so as to not poison the metals in the sensor.
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2000Firefly1.3L
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strange, the factory manual told me to only do the oil pan going with the bead on the inside, not surrounding the bolt holes. this is why i think there was a small drip in my transmission case half but this time i filed the edges. plus my oil pan is very uneven i have to fix it then re-apply
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starscream5000
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Got 70 MPG?

t3ragtop
Oct 17 2012, 07:06 PM
heck, when i built my blue monster g10t i used blue rtv to color match my powder coated parts. :D
Posted Image

it's much more important that your selection of rtv is o2 sensor safe so as to not poison the metals in the sensor.
Is that a silicone hose you're using as an oil drain hose?
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