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| Tensioning the Timeing Belt w/out the spring... | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Nov 3 2012, 09:19 PM (1,036 Views) | |
| Das Geo | Nov 3 2012, 09:19 PM Post #1 |
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So, my G10 engine that I'm rebuilding doesn't have the tensioning spring on the timing belt tensioner; it wasn't there when I took it apart, I didn't know at the time that it was a vital piece, and now I'm putting the whole thing back together under a deadline. Great, I know. Oh, and I can't seem to find that spring anywhere. So, I'm wondering if it's possible to get close enough to proper tension without the spring in place, or if that shouldn't be attempted without a lot of experience. The other option I'm wondering about is if anyone knows of a generic spring that would be easier to get a hold of that would do the trick? Thanks for the help.
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| Geoke | Nov 3 2012, 09:25 PM Post #2 |
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Can you post a pic while its still open I would like to see what I looks like I'm going to change my belt in a few weeks |
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| Old Man | Nov 3 2012, 10:40 PM Post #3 |
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Here you go: complete "how to" timing belt replacement guide with pics. http://geometroforum.com/topic/2232748/1 |
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| Memphis metro | Nov 3 2012, 11:02 PM Post #4 |
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You cant hardly get it wrong. Just dont crank it all the way down. |
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| Shinrin | Nov 3 2012, 11:03 PM Post #5 |
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You can do it without the spring. The spring barely provides any tension to begin with. It doesn't take much. |
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| Das Geo | Nov 3 2012, 11:19 PM Post #6 |
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Gotcha, thanks guys! That's a load off my mind... |
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| Deleted User | Nov 4 2012, 01:21 AM Post #7 |
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I remove the tensioner spring on all of my installations. It it comes loose or breaks, it could damage the timing belt. Make sure the idler bearing is in good condition. It it turns freely, without any resistance, or makes noise, replace it. Don't tighten the timing belt too tight. It will prematurely wear out the idler bearing. |
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| starscream5000 | Nov 4 2012, 09:44 AM Post #8 |
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Got 70 MPG?
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Just put a little finger pressure on the adjustment slide, then torque it down.
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| gamingdevil | Nov 9 2012, 02:14 AM Post #9 |
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Fresh Fish
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This is a good idea. I'm replacing my timing belt myself for the first time because I left the spring on after a water pump installation; spring broke, got all bound up around the bottom crankshaft sprocket and snapped my belt. |
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| wizard 03 | Nov 10 2012, 07:13 PM Post #10 |
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Im slightly freaked out here, I usually move the tensioner down to where the bolt for the cover can still fit, but a little on the tighter side. {I prefer not to find out what would happen if the belt was loose.} |
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| clarkdw | Nov 11 2012, 01:25 AM Post #11 |
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Nothing happens. The belt on Cheekyta, my vert, is so loose that you can easily remove it and reinstall it without undoing anything. I had 0.050" taken off the head so the tensioner is at max adjustment and the belt is loose. I regularly rev it up to fuel cutoff at 7,000 rpm. It is a positive drive toothed belt designed to run with minimal tension. Stop thinking about it as a belt and rather more like a bicycle chain and then the concept is more clear. The timing is not affected because the timing is determined by the length of the tension side of the belt and that doesn't change no matter how loose the belt is. The amount of wrap around the sprockets assures that the belt will not jump a tooth unless it is ridiculously loose. Most people install the belt way too tight. All it does is wear out the tensioner bearing prematurely and stretch the belt causing timing errors. |
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| 2000Firefly1.3L | Nov 11 2012, 01:34 AM Post #12 |
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how i did mine. i think the spring looks funny so i took it off |
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