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(Finished) Putting AC on the XFi; Finally have cold air in the Metro!
Topic Started: Nov 4 2012, 06:19 PM (4,248 Views)
GeoZone
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Scoobs
Jul 7 2013, 05:19 PM
If you dont mind my input, but why did you jumper the connector for the thermostat in the evaporator?
Was going to get to that, but since you asked - and I'll let it be known that SCOOBS helped me quite a bit at the end--so of course, I don't mind your input! Or anyone else's for that matter. I am a novice.

So, when all was said and done the evaporator thermistor was determined to be bad, i.e. causing the compressor to cycle on, then off, on-off. The shop advised that I could simply bypass the thermistor, and in our dry climate, this probably wouldn't be a big problem with icing up. When I did bypass it, the system finally worked.

I may, at some point decide that the thermistor needs to be replaced but at the moment, I got A/C without it.
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Scoobs
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:D

OH HAHAHAHHAHAHA, your the one ive been chatting with on facebook :/ LOL Got it :D Noted :D
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GeoZone
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What I figured out that I didn't have was the full wiring harness from the engine compartment, the relays from the fuse box in the engine compartment, the wiring harness behind the dash, and the switch that turns off the system at WOT. Also missing was the vacuum switch that attaches to the firewall and hoses to the throttle body.

Finally I took it all to the shop for the recharge. They charged it and found that the system cycled on and off, found that the on/off switch was bad, and also bad continuity in the AC amplifier (the black box that attaches to the evaporator case)
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GeoZone
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The shop, of course, couldn't find a new AC amplifier and found a new switch for $102. I managed to find a used amplifier on Ebay and switch off Amazon for half that (more on this topic to come).

After some shipping and out of stock hassles with the switch I finally got it all in, plugged the new parts in and. . . . nothing. Hot air

Enter SCOOBS, my man, who I contacted via FB for some friendly advice. Scoobs quickly helped me determine that I had forgotten to install the temperature switch that measures coolant temp and shuts down the AC if the engine gets too hot.

Posted Image
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GeoZone
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So now I have all my parts installed, including the new(used) amplifier, new on/off switch, and new temperature switch. I turn on the system and it cycles on-off, on-off, on-off.

Scoobs advises probably not fully charged, causing it to cycle.

Back to the shop. Yep - they tell me not fully charged but not because of them (they say they charged it fully), but they have found leaking from fittings. That's right, I didn't replace my O-rings.

IF YOU WORK ON YOUR AC SYSTEM PUT NEW O-RINGS IN.

At this point, it's a day before I leave for like a week and a half so I just tell 'em to put in the new rings and charge the bitch, I want my car.
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GeoZone
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When they charge it, they find it still cycles on and off and needs a new "thermistor". I can't deal :banghead :banghead :banghead . I'm out of time and money and I just go pick up my car and head for my beach vacation. The Metro can wait :beer :beer :drink B-)
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GeoZone
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Finally, I get back from my beach vacation :coffee and take the car to the shop when the guy who runs the place and who I know is actually there instead of just his grease monkeys who, frankly, I think hate my metro.

Anyway, he's cool and he walks me through the whole deal, shows me where the thermistor is and advises that I just jumper the thing. No need to stress on replacing that. So I find a paperclip in my ash tray and voilla. AC.

Drive home in the ICY coolness, and life is good. We'll see how long it lasts, I'm thinking another O-ring is gonna go.

I decided to leave the bezel and crap off my dash until I can get a new stereo. The one in the car is a tape deck and the tape player doesn't work so I can't plug in the iPod which means it basically sucks. Saving for that.

:cheers
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JellyBeanDriver


Did you put in R12 or R134A?
What is your vent temperatures and what temp is the outside air?
When the compressor is on how much of a power hit to the engine during driving?


I just put in a 97's R134A OEM AC setup this weekend into my 92' to replace the poor excuse of a dealer installed R12 AC system.
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Mythstae
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GeoZone
Jul 7 2013, 06:04 PM
I decided to leave the bezel and crap off my dash until I can get a new stereo. The one in the car is a tape deck and the tape player doesn't work so I can't plug in the iPod which means it basically sucks. Saving for that.

:cheers
If you're not too particular about the branding, here are a couple of cheapies I found on eBay...

Cheapest. $25, free shipping. AUX, SD card, USB, NO CD.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/230977989897

Somewhat more expensive. $39.36 I think this is the kind we have in Glenn's car. It's nice. USB is only a charger, not a player.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181158285857

"Most expensive one." (That isn't saying much.) $43.79 The USB will play on this one, too.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330948137529

And my last helpful advice, if these are like other USB stereos I have encountered, do not leave anything plugged in to the USB port when you start the car, you will kill the port.

Thread-jack complete, I'm out! :ahh
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GeoZone
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Thanks Mythstae.

Jellybean, I used an R134a system off a 94. It indeed suffers a major hit to the power, so much so that I often turn it off if I'm like on a hill at a light so I don't stall out (happened once). Don't know what the temp is, will try and get a thermometer on it. It's super nice and cold in the vehicle if it's under about 90 outside and if it's over 100 it seems to not work so well, which is about how my truck is too. Whatever, I can wear pants in the car now.
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GeoZone
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Thanks mythstae those prices are right on the mark of what i was looking at. I have three thatat price picked out on amazon. Will look at the ones u posted after i do my bills this weekend and decide if this can happen :)
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JellyBeanDriver


Which compressor did you use? Sanden SD7B10?
Also, is your crank pulley diameter for the AC larger or smaller than the crank pulley diameter for the alt/wp?

I just discovered that it should be smaller for the AC drive vs the alt/wp drive for the Sanden SD7B10 on a 3cyl engine. Pretty sure this explains the big power hit when turn my AC on.
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Coche Blanco
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JellyBeanDriver
Jul 11 2013, 09:56 AM
Which compressor did you use? Sanden SD7B10?
Also, is your crank pulley diameter for the AC larger or smaller than the crank pulley diameter for the alt/wp?

I just discovered that it should be smaller for the AC drive vs the alt/wp drive for the Sanden SD7B10 on a 3cyl engine. Pretty sure this explains the big power hit when turn my AC on.
It's entirely possible that your engine is weak. (it has 400k miles on it, right?) And you've never had a Geo with A/C to compare it? Maybe?
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JellyBeanDriver


Coche Blanco
Jul 11 2013, 12:04 PM
JellyBeanDriver
Jul 11 2013, 09:56 AM
Which compressor did you use? Sanden SD7B10?
Also, is your crank pulley diameter for the AC larger or smaller than the crank pulley diameter for the alt/wp?

I just discovered that it should be smaller for the AC drive vs the alt/wp drive for the Sanden SD7B10 on a 3cyl engine. Pretty sure this explains the big power hit when turn my AC on.
It's entirely possible that your engine is weak. (it has 400k miles on it, right?) And you've never had a Geo with A/C to compare it? Maybe?
It had dealer installed AC before this. Never worked that great but maybe that's just the way Metros are (?).
Full sun coming through the windshield and hitting you, the AC output could not keep up.

I tried to fix it a few times, used Envirosafe, R12, later R134A. None of the times did it bog the engine down much.

Now it's like engaging the parking brakes part way.
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Coche Blanco
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Ohhh okay, carry on. :thumb (I've never had A/C in a 3 cylinder Metro, so I don't even know what the power loss is like)
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