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| Belt shredded and I'm FEMALE!; need to do the work myself | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Nov 7 2012, 02:36 PM (1,339 Views) | |
| tamwe | Nov 7 2012, 02:36 PM Post #1 |
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New Member
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Hello! I am new to the forum but appreciate the many posts and have been a guest several times. My 2000 Metro was parked for 4 years until my newer van blew its engine. Luckily, I thought to run my metro out of gas 4 years ago and so last month I put a new battery and some gas in it and off we went. Well, the next day I also changed the plugs and oil and it passed emissions and it's been 2000 miles since then. OK, so I have had the squeaky belts. It stops squeaking (screaming) after a couple of minutes. Today it shredded (but still got me home). There is a thin rememberance of what once was the belt. It is the rear one of the two. I need to fix it myself. Any instructions would be awesome. I am a single mom of 3 and fix or do everything myself (or make it much worse). The space is so tight..WOW. My metro is amazing. I added a seat belt in the back (for a thin person) between the other two seatbelts and now it can carry 5 people (including me). It has 163K miles. Thanks so much. I need to drive to Atl. tomorrow. |
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| Jittney | Nov 7 2012, 02:44 PM Post #2 |
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Anchorage 92 XFi
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Welcome to the forum, tamwe ![]() The alternator belt is about $10 and takes about a half hour to change. On your car, there will be one bolt up top...and two underneath....probably 12 mm. If you loosen them up a bit, you should be able to pull the alternator forward. Change the belt and tighten it up. You will probably need to put the car up on jackstands to get to the bolts on the bottom. If not, it will indeed be a tight fit to get to them....unless you have slender hands and arms. I use a 2x4 to hold the alternator tight while I do the last bit of tightening up of the bolts. Good luck...and keep us posted. |
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| Robisaurus | Nov 7 2012, 02:47 PM Post #3 |
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Cherry popped 01/14/12
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Welcome! So good to see another member that knows what she's doing! Keep em coming. |
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| idmetro | Nov 7 2012, 03:09 PM Post #4 |
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Welcome aboard! We're here to help, do keep us posted. |
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| tamwe | Nov 7 2012, 03:36 PM Post #5 |
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New Member
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Thanks, thanks, and more thanks. It appears, however, I need to remove the AC belt to get to it. The jack stands are no problem...used them to change the oil. |
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| mecevans | Nov 7 2012, 03:47 PM Post #6 |
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Elite Member
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Power Steering Pump and Compressor Drive Belt Removal Procedure Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. Remove the right front tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Steering and Suspension. Remove 6 push clips and the right front lower splash shield. Loosen the tension pulley retaining nut (4) and the tension bolt (1). Remove the power steering and the compressor drive belt (7) from the pulleys. Power Steering Pump and Compressor Drive Belt Installation Procedure Properly route and install the power steering pump and the compressor drive belt (7) on the power steering pump pulley (1) (if equipped), the compressor pulley (2), the tension pulley (3), and the crankshaft pulley (4). Align the drive belt on the pulleys. Use thumb pressure in order to inspect the compressor drive belt tension. Turn the tension bolt (1) in order to adjust the drive belt tension to the specifications. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions. Secure the tension pulley lock nut (4). Tighten the lock nut to 45 Nm (33 ft. lbs.). Install the right front lower splash shield. Secure the splash shield with 6 push clips. Install the right front tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Steering and Suspension. Lower the vehicle. Generator Drive Belt Removal Procedure Caution: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the power steering pump and the compressor drive belt. Refer to Power Steering Pump and Compressor Drive Belt Removal Procedure above. Loosen the upper adjuster bolt of the generator drive belt. Loosen the lower mounting bolt of the generator drive belt. Pivot the generator, and remove the accessory drive belt (1). Generator Drive Belt Installation Procedure Correctly route and install the generator drive belt on the pulleys. Adjust the drive belt tension in order to obtain a 6 - 8 mm (0.24 - 0.31 inch) deflection with 10 kg (22 lbs.) of pressure exerted on a used belt. Alternatively, adjust the drive belt tension in order to obtain a 5 - 7 mm (0.20 - 0.27 inch) deflection with 10 kg (22 lbs.) of pressure exerted on a new belt. Tighten the adjuster bolt for the generator drive belt and the mounting bolt to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.) Install the power steering and the compressor drive belt. Refer to Power Steering Pump and Compressor Drive Belt Installation Procedure above. Connect the negative battery cable. Tighten the battery cable bolt to 15 Nm (11 ft. lbs.) |
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| tamwe | Nov 7 2012, 05:26 PM Post #7 |
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New Member
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Oh Wow. Thank you Mecevans. One would wonder if it's just easier to CUT the other belt to the AC. The car only has raquet-pinion steering (not power steering). The AC doesn't work right now and it's cold here anyway. I love that part about 'refer to vehicle lifting'. |
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| tamwe | Nov 7 2012, 05:33 PM Post #8 |
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New Member
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I should say that taking the tire and splash shield off sure explains how to work in the tight space! I might not have though of that until I hurt myself trying to do it every other way (being female and all). I would like to not take the tire off and the wheel assembly. It's getting dark and the new belt isn't here yet (sent a teen---go figure). It's 40 degrees and I just had big surgery across the front of my neck with a shocking 8" suture and stitches. Hey, but it wasn't cancer like the doctors thought. All that in perspective, this belt seems like a small problem, at least I hope so. |
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| tamwe | Nov 7 2012, 05:34 PM Post #9 |
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New Member
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Yes I wonder if it's okay just to cut that other belt that drives the AC....unless it has another purpose, too. Chances are that it is old and dry, also, and will need replacing sometime soon. |
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| snowfish | Nov 7 2012, 05:51 PM Post #10 |
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Basic GearHead
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Take a look. If it only drives the A/C, then whack it. Are you willing to live without A/C? Sorry I see it's not working anyways.
Edited by snowfish, Nov 7 2012, 05:53 PM.
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| Old Man | Nov 7 2012, 05:55 PM Post #11 |
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cut both belts and replace both belts if you have the $$$$ for both of them. Otherwise just leave the AC belt off til March or April |
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| MR Bill | Nov 7 2012, 07:51 PM Post #12 |
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Welcome to GMF |
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| Mikey9999 | Nov 7 2012, 07:59 PM Post #13 |
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Delusionally qualified
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If you can find your belts, let alone replace them you're a better mechanic than many males. |
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| tamwe | Nov 7 2012, 08:53 PM Post #14 |
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New Member
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OK thanks. I now have my endorsements. I have the new belt in my possession finally but have not replaced the old belt yet. It is still working but about half or more has shredded away (incredible, like the car). I am now considering driving on in to Atlanta in the morning and doing the belt job when I get back at 3pm. It's 25 miles each way. I am taking a chance that the belt could go ahead and break. I can pack my tools and even the ramps, just in case. It's a great little car and I'm not about to let it run hot. I wonder how far I can go once the belt breaks. It will be 55 degrees and cloudy. Atlanta has some VERY nasty spots where it's best to not stop. I'm planning to do it like Old Man said. Thank you to the rest of you guys, too. Mikey999, that was a nice thing to say.
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| Coche Blanco | Nov 7 2012, 09:19 PM Post #15 |
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Troll Certified
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I would try and do it before you left. |
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If it only drives the A/C, then whack it.
Sorry
I see it's not working anyways.
3:18 AM Jul 11