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draining coolant from G-10 block; best way?
Topic Started: Nov 14 2012, 02:34 AM (966 Views)
doug7x
Advanced Member
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Hi, folks...how's it going...Well, it seems I'm going to have to do an "emergency" valve job on my '99 1.0. Now, I've done plenty of valve jobs in my time, but this will be my 1st one on a Metro. If 3-tech can get me my parts, the only other problem that I'm not sure of is how to get the coolant out of the engine. (Just enough to be able to pull the head without contaminating the oil) I've been all over the block, even with a mirror, & I can't find anything that looks like a drain plug. I DID search the forum, but couldn't find anything except "turn it over". I mean, if this is the only way, then that's what I'll do....worst case, I can try to suck it out from the thermostat housing with a rubber syringe. FYI...the oil I've got in there is pretty expensive full synthetic, & I'd kind of hate to drain it & pour it back in. (I'll have to work out in the wind, rain, & blowing leaves & crap). Any & ALL thoughts will be greatly appreciated....thanks in advance....
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Memphis metro


I would drain my oil in a bucket if the oil is not that old and once its drained proceed on with the head removal and let the water do what it wants or alteast the water I could not drain and save. Once completed put the oil back in and pour the antifreeze you saved and some new back in. Pulling the thermostat housing will allow a lot of coolant to run out of the head. I have seen no block drains for coolant myself. If you pull anything that is lower than the head gasket you will get your water level down. Coolant tube on rear of engine, waterpump.
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Shinrin
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If you're having to do emergency head work, shouldn't you expect the oil to be contaminated in some way already?
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doug7x
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Shinrin
Nov 14 2012, 02:41 AM
If you're having to do emergency head work, shouldn't you expect the oil to be contaminated in some way already?
No, the oil should be OK...the emergency work is to replace my (typical) burnt exhaust valve in #1 cyl.....funny...EGR still works, & no OBD codes are showing, but the compression guage didn't lie.
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doug7x
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blue rhino
Nov 14 2012, 02:38 AM
I would drain my oil in a bucket if the oil is not that old and once its drained proceed on with the head removal and let the water do what it wants or alteast the water I could not drain and save. Once completed put the oil back in and pour the antifreeze you saved and some new back in. Pulling the thermostat housing will allow a lot of coolant to run out of the head. I have seen no block drains for coolant myself. If you pull anything that is lower than the head gasket you will get your water level down. Coolant tube on rear of engine, waterpump.
Yep, Blue Rhyno...this is exactly what I'll do if ther's no better way...I'm just hoping for a new discovery..(yeah, I know) BTW...hope you all enjoy my new sig.
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starscream5000
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Got 70 MPG?

blue rhino
Nov 14 2012, 02:38 AM
Coolant tube on rear of engine, waterpump.
Good idea. The drain cock on the radiator itself should accomplish the same thing though. That's why it's there.
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Memphis metro


starscream5000
Nov 14 2012, 09:55 AM
blue rhino
Nov 14 2012, 02:38 AM
Coolant tube on rear of engine, waterpump.
Good idea. The drain cock on the radiator itself should accomplish the same thing though. That's why it's there.
The thermostat being closed holds coolant in the engine. The radiator drain is effective draining forward of the engine up too the thermostat but will not drain the head down to the engine block very effective at times. Dependant upon engine design.
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starscream5000
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Got 70 MPG?

Then how about just doing it after warming the car up?
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Coche Blanco
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Troll Certified

I don't want exploding fire hose coolant.
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starscream5000
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Got 70 MPG?

Coche Blanco
Nov 14 2012, 10:55 AM
I don't want exploding fire hose coolant.
Good point, it would probably go flying out of the drain cock and create a mess.
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