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Tevie1; sneak preview
Topic Started: Nov 23 2012, 10:14 PM (28,023 Views)
evmetro


I have been building this ride for way way too long, but I will throw in a sneak preview. She ain't pretty yet, as I am primarily trying to get it ready for the inspection that will allow me to pull it out of the smog grid. When it is ready for the inspection, I will bolt down the front seats and dash, and then once it is passed and registered as an EV, I will rip it all back apart and make her pretty.

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Johnny Mullet
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Fear the Mullet

Keep us posted :deal
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Scoobs
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:D

Holy shit lol
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Coche Blanco
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More!
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evmetro


Ok, I will throw one more out there... This one is from a few months back. Rear seat pans are "flattened" out here to allow the new "gas" tank to be bolted in from the bottom. The new shape of the tire well and backseat ass pans can be seen here, tacked in place and ready to weld. Yea, those front floors under the seat look a little different too. This car holds a lot of lithium.


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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

That is an awesome project. Thanks for the pictures. :thumb
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dayle1960
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Fastest Hampster EVER

Whats the weight of the batteries? How many miles are you expecting on a charge?

Great project. You get an addaboy for your determination.
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evmetro


The lithium weighs about 480 pounds. 21kw should bring me the 100 mile range that I want. These metros weigh about 1900 pounds stock, but this one should weigh in around 2100. One of my missions on this build was to pack in 21kwh of lithium without interfering with the interior. Most of the metro conversions that I see no longer have a backseat or hatchback area. This conversion will retain full oem interior. The only sacrafice that I made was the footroom for the backseat passengers. Normally there is toe room under the back of a front seat, but now it is more cramped. There is still enough room for feet, just a little less than oem.
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PA.metro,fixer,frames,ect
Frame Fixer

Really cool..hope it goes smoothly
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evmetro


My new "gas tank" is quite a bit bigger than the original. I get about 1/2 inch between the aluminum frame and the control arms. Tight squeeze, but it is nice to have all the weight down below the floor. The 5 cells under each of the front seats also keeps the weight pretty low. The overall center of gravity is much lower than a regular metro.

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evmetro


Need some help. I have the engine compartment harness opened up on the bench and am weeding out what I do not need. After chopping the two big ass plugs that go through the firwall on the passenger side, I gutted the wires back to the relay box. I have two wires from the small side of the "main" relay that no longer go anywhere. Does anybody know if the main relay has anything to do with non gasoline engine functions? I would like do away with the main relay altogether.
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evmetro


Just took it for a spin. I just bolted down a seat and finger tightened the steering wheel and column. I run an oem 5 speed with no clutch. At about 20 to 25, you can nail it and the tires break free. It will be hard to enjoy my three cylinder metros as much now. This kind of torque really changes the feeling of a metro. I feel like a bad guy trolling for a place to light em up.
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Coche Blanco
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Motor specs?
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idmetro
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I can see it now "Oh no Judge, I drive a Metro how could I possibly have done "excessive acceleration"?...
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evmetro


I am running an ac 35 motor and a curtis 1238-7601. I think it gives you 110 pounds of torque up to around 3200 rpm. Couple that set up to an "empty" metro, and you can't help grinning. What makes it even more fun is your torque is there all the way. When you wind up a gasoline motor, you don't get much until a certain rpm. The electric motor has that sweet spot of torque that you feel with a gas motor at the right rpm, but that sweet spot is there all the way up to around 3200 rpm. There is still more to go after 3200 rpm, but this is where the torque curve starts going down.
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evmetro


Had to put a seat in to see exactly where to tack the underseat battery boxes. One of the big goals with this build is to have the interior look stock. As you can see in this pic, the rear seat passengers lose a little toe room. This was my biggest compromise on my goals to leave a stock interior.

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evmetro


Here is a shot of my tranny to electric motor adapter. I trimmed it to fit the tranny the old skool way. Die grinder and grinding wheel. Had a lot of sweeping to do when I was done.


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This is how it sits.

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I was in the engine mount fabbing phase here. Still had all kinds of extra wiring and crap cluttering the engine bay. Had to remake that front right mount a few times to get it how I wanted it.
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evmetro


I got the wiring for my heater done.

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I am not sure how hot the original hot water / heater core set up gets, but I think this may be a little hotter. The hottest it got was about 158 after 2 full minutes. I can't stick my fingers into the box because it is too hot, but I am guessing that when the dash and ducts are installed, there will be some loss of heat by the time it reaches the vents. I rigged up four switches to control two ceramic heaters. I grabbed two cheap heaters from Home depot and robbed the elements out of them. They look like miniature heater cores, and have two hot leads each to control high and low. These are fabbed into the same place as the original heater core was, and by turning on one switch, I get 750 watts out of the first element. Second switch adds 750 watts more, so that the first ceramic is putting out the 1500 watts that the heater was designed to put out. Hit switch #3, and you get the first 750 out of ceramic element #2, switch 4 brings you up to a toasty 3000 watts.
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evmetro


I did not want those ceramic elements running inside the heater box without airflow, so I wired the 12 volt coil of my high voltage relay to fan 12 volts lead. I think it was the pink/black lead.this way the high voltage will not even be there without the fan running. This still left the potential to bypass the heater core by having the temp set to cold, so I ran that fan tap wire through this switch:

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this is with the heater control set to cold

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this is with heater set to hot.

The switch engages when the heater knob is slid about halfway. The linkage that contacts the switch stays put from the halfway point all the way to the right or hottest position.

I shaped a piece of angle iron to make the bracket, and then riveted it to the heater box. The gray stuff is just some 2 part plastic that I layed down as a foundation before riveting the bracket. I got the bracket riveted on before the epoxy dried, so I was able to put some over the rivets too.
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

:popcorn :thumb
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JellyBeanDriver


Wow! Nice work!
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evmetro


I took her up a little on the freeway today. 4th gear, and I brought it up slowly to about 100 mph. That was about the limit. There was still fifth gear and more pedal, but that is the limit of my cells. Sag one of these cells below 2.5 volts and it can get expensive pretty quick. 75 is really comfy, but still hogs up a lot of amps. You could cruise comfortably around 75 to 80 mph, but it would really reduce the range. 65 seems like a nice cruising speed for the freeway, where you can still get some nice range. I suppose the same general rules apply for economy in a gasoline powered vehicle.
Edited by evmetro, Jan 29 2013, 12:42 AM.
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Coche Blanco
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evmetro
Jan 29 2013, 12:41 AM
I took her up a little on the freeway today. 4th gear, and I brought it up slowly to about 100 mph. That was about the limit. There was still fifth gear and more pedal, but that is the limit of my cells. Sag one of these cells below 2.5 volts and it can get expensive pretty quick. 75 is really comfy, but still hogs up a lot of amps. You could cruise comfortably around 75 to 80 mph, but it would really reduce the range. 65 seems like a nice cruising speed for the freeway, where you can still get some nice range. I suppose the same general rules apply for economy in a gasoline powered vehicle.
Time for some aeromods, and pics.
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evmetro


Coche, you nailed it. There is not any need to go much more than 75, but it shows how much I need aero mods. I think my aero problems are below the car, and am plotting the under chassis shield.
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evmetro


I am running liquid cooling for my charger and controller, and was looking for a tiny radiator. That is my oem heater core. I never thought that I would use a heater core to COOL things off..

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evmetro


I used 2 inch masking tape to make a mold for my new front bumper. The air intakes are completely gone, and I built up the upper lip where the hood closes so that no air will enter the engine compartment. If you look really close, you can see that the license plate area is shaped in as well. I just cut out a piece of thick aluminum the size of a license plate and "taped it in" like the new bottom edge is.


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I cut out a cool shape out of 3/4 mdf to make the new lowered bottom. The mdf is clamped in place while the fiberglass dries, and then I can pull it out. I am doing a complete flat underlay on the bottom of the car, and will post some pics soon. For now, I am still laying glass. It is getting pretty rigid now, and is almost ready to come off the car for grinding, sanding, and fine tuning.
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clarkdw


Love that front bumper/airdam.
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evmetro


The yellow tape color disappeared after the 2nd layer of fiberglass, but I will take some progress shots.
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Coche Blanco
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I saw an episode of Trucks where they used a fleece blanket as fiberglass. It looked like a perfect candidate for a grille block.
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evmetro


I used panty hose for stretching shapes during my car audio fabrication days...
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evmetro


I got a little more time to work on the bumper. Below, you can see the raw fiberglass after I applied it to the bumper/ mold, and then took the oem bumper back out of the dried glass.


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The outside was a little rough from applying the glass, so I knocked down the high spots, and skimmed it with body filler. Below, you can see that I left all the edges razor sharp, but I will round them off before primer. When the lines are "crisp" like that, it helps to see if I am blocking it out straight.


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evmetro


Making a bumper for an electric car is way different than a gasoline version. There is no reason to have any air at all inside the engine compartment. The best scenario is to have the engine compartment sealed like a trunk.
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Stubby79
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How many layers of what weight glass did you end up using?
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evmetro


I am not sure the weight of the cloth. The first two layers were pretty heavy random weave stuff, and then I added one layer of some medium cloth that was regular weave. A two inch paint roller worked nicely on all those contours.
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Harleymetro


Wish i had a mold of of it. Looks great. :thumb
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evmetro


I will probably build a mold, but I don't know how an all electric bumper would work out for a gasoline model. I am pretty confident that it is WAY more aerodynamic though.
Edited by evmetro, Mar 1 2013, 11:08 PM.
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evmetro


I love how this thing fits up... You can see how the gap is filled between the hood and bumper.


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Looks like those headlights are going to need polishing after this rig gets painted.
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evmetro


I took the flywheel to a local machine shop and got the ring gear removed, and got some heavy duty lightening work done. I had the lip around the ring gear milled down as well. Nice new surface... Now the three dowel pins look a lot longer with all the material that has been removed.


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Coche Blanco
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Don't need much weight on the flywheel to keep momentum with an electric motor, do you?
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evmetro


I don't need any weight at all. Less is more... No need for a starter either.
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evmetro


Been fine tuning the section where the bumper meets the hood... I ended up matching the angle of the bumper to the angle of the hood. I still have some more fine tuning before primer.


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I want a really small gap so that very little air passes into the engine compartment. It will be interesting to see how much difference the new aerodynamics will make. I have my amps draw at 100 mph and every 10 mph increments down to 50 mph from before the mods, and I remember how the wind sounds at 100 mph, so I will be able to measure after I get her back on the road and be able to compare power consumption.
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Scoobs
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:D

100 mph in a geo.... Lol Make me one!
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evmetro


Before priming the bumper, I rounded the "crispy" lines. Here she is with a coat of primer. Yea, real primer out of a gun... a few coats. I will get my sanding blocks out this morning and block it down to either perfection, or until it needs another coat of primer, whichever comes first.


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Coche Blanco
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You should paint a grill on there, or something. It'll look strange with nothing there.
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evmetro


It is all about the aerodynamics. I will get rid of the bowtie on the hood, and enclose the license plate in a bubble cover. The biggest improvement in airflow will be the lack of air openings, and the extended lower. If I calculate correctly, this setup will look pretty slick with some candy paint...
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Harleymetro


If you make a mold i would like the first one out. pm sent
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evmetro


I am planning to make a mold, so that I can make these for my other metros, make them lighter, and so I can make these available for other people. I am not sure how a gasoline vehicle would handle the lack of airflow, but I calculte that this design will greatly improve aerodynamic efficiency. I have matched the bottom of this bumper to line up with a flat underlay which is plastic sheet mounted to an aluminum subframe. This lightweight subframe/ underlay comes below the control arms when there is weight on the wheels, for a super aerodynamic underside.
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evmetro


I blocked out the first coat of primer and put down another. I had to see how the bubble license cover looked...

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No more crisp lines... everything is rounded and flowing now

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After I block out this coat of primer, it will be all ready for paint and/or making a mold. You can kinda see, even with this dull primer, that it is flawless. It will really "pop" with a perfect paint job on it.
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

:drool :thumb
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evmetro


I am getting her ready for paint, and am starting under the hood. Because of my higher standards, I needed to remove everything that does not need to be painted... suspension, all brake lines and master cyl, wiper motor, wiring, etc. I left the two brake lines that go to the back of the car, and my shorepower charging cable that I dont feel like messing with. There are probably a few weld in parts that look unfamiliar to gasoline metro folks. That stuff holds some of my battery packs and ev components.


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After I get the engine compartment sprayed, I will assemble everything under the hood so that I don't have so much stuff on my shelves. Stay tuned for some color... Probably a few days since I have to do my primer, block, primer, block thing and make everything all nice.
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clarkdw


That is going to have very good drag numbers. It is very pretty as well. Keep posting. It raises the bar for everyone. :thumb
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evmetro


Just so nobody has to squint for a view of the California frame horns... This may also be nice to document before paint in case somebody wants to buy it one day.

drivers side

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passenger side

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Mythstae
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What color are you making it?
(I can't remember if you've posted about it already...)
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evmetro


On the fence with the color. It will be blue, but I am torn between a basic base/clear and a candy. As much as I want a candy, it is more complicated. If you look through color chip books, the oem colors can make you sleepy and bored pretty quick. Take a candy paint chip book out in the sun, and you might get excited about every color chip. Naturally, there is a price that we have to pay to have these beautiful paint jobs, and that is more work, more money, and a challenge later down the road if you want to repaint a single panel. I have debated using a basic base clear color that is very close for the jambs and engine compartment, but I doubt I will go that route. If it is masked and getting painted, it is better to just do it right. Anyhow... some kind of blue, and I will pull the trigger soon on what exact paint color. (pun intended)
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evmetro


I will add that the green color is going away because it represents the greeny liberals that plaque the ev industry. One of the side effects of electric vehicles is that they produce no emissions, and with that side effect, greenies overwhelm the industry. I want to make sure that there is no confusion later on when a granola bar eating greeny thinks that the car is green in color to represent the greeny movement... Did I mention that I am not fond of greenies?
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Mythstae
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evmetro
Mar 13 2013, 12:27 AM
Did I mention that I am not fond of greenies?
It might perhaps have come up before... ;)
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

evmetro
Mar 13 2013, 12:27 AM
I will add that the green color is going away because it represents the greeny liberals that plaque the ev industry.
Well, you do live in a blue state and according to the GALLUP pole map.

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In fact it's dark blue (Royal?) if you are having trouble making up your mind what color to paint your car.

I live in a red state and both our Geos are red. :-/

No, I don't discuss politics. :shake

I'm facetious. :D

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evmetro


As far as I know, the voters who make the red states red are the ones who build cars like these, and the voters who make the blue states blue feel that they are entitled to cars like these.
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evmetro


Got some primer and sealer down today.

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evmetro


I got some base coat down as well. It is not done yet, still needs some clear tomorrow, but you can see the base coat here. There is a ton of pearl in this infinti color, which by the way is a simple base coat/ clear coat system. Without the clear, you can't really see much except for a clue of the final color, but standby and I will post some pics tomorrow with the clear.

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Mythstae
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PRETTY!
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Bad Bent
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Facetious Educated Donkey

:gp

B-)
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evmetro


Got some clear down today... Here is a chance to show off my frame horns, since they are usually a lot harder to get a view of.

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Time to start bolting parts back on!

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Scoobs
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:D

Holy crap i love that color!, makes me want to strip nightmare down and repaint it!
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evmetro


If stripping nightmare down is in your heart, you should follow your dream. (Pun intended)
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Spud
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I would go with badass paint job like that but kind of lacking the garage and on a deadline on needing my car. So I have decided to go with 1 part black chalkboard paint to 2 parts dark teal chalkboard paint. Almost looks black but yet can see the green peeping out, who wants a sneak peak of a color chip looks like
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evmetro


I can appreciate the chalkboard finish, but the green is my least favorite color. That is the beauty of freedom though. Paint it the color that YOU want.
Edited by evmetro, Mar 16 2013, 10:18 PM.
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evmetro


New rotors, pads, wheel bearings, wheel bearing seals- inner and outer, new struts. I got the Napa ultra premium pads since this is the last set of pads this car will ever see... I use regenerative braking to charge the batteries, but I still need brakes when I come up to a stop sign. I refrained from painting any of the suspension components since this is a lightweight vehicle, but the original powder coating looked pretty nice with some time spent on cleaning. The needle bearings on the top of the struts looked pretty nice, so I just cleaned them and re greased them.


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I have to say that everything that I replaced was amazingly worn out, which I suppose makes sense for a car with 280,xxx+ miles on the clock.
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evmetro


I spent a little time prettying up the wiper motor and mount.

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Got the master cylinder and brake lines back in. Got the steering rack back in too.

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evmetro


Got the vacuum reservoir in. This works like an air compressor does in your garage... an electric pump runs until I have -7 psi in this tank, and cuts off. Use the brakes a few times, and the vacuum gets low and the pump kicks in again.

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Below is the brake pump. You can see it on the right. I also rattle canned the heater core that I use for cooling my charger and motor controller.

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Next pic is the pressure switch that fires up the pump, and you can also see I have an inline check valve closest to you in the pic.

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Stubby79
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water cooled controller? Fancy! :drool
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evmetro


The controller was not originally water cooled, but it builds up heat when you work it really hard, and it won't perform at its best when you push the duty cycle. I run an aluminum watercooled chill plate on it that mounts under the controller. I route the coolant from the controller through the charger, and the through that heater core mounted up front. When I am driving, the controller makes heat and the charger helps cool it, but when I am charging, the controller helps cool the charger. You can only make heat out of one thing at a time, so it made sense to just have one cooling circuit and have one component help cool the other.
Edited by evmetro, Mar 19 2013, 10:45 PM.
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Coche Blanco
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I didn't even consider needing powered brakes... :gp

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evmetro


They are not really "power" brakes, I just simulate the vacuum that comes from the original intake manifold so it feels like it does in a stock Metro.
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Coche Blanco
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evmetro
Mar 19 2013, 10:51 PM
They are not really "power" brakes, I just simulate the vacuum that comes from the original intake manifold so it feels like it does in a stock Metro.
They're more 'powered' than they would be if you left it off. :rocker

Will you do a 0-60 video when you get done, and would you consider selling it? (I'm not interested, but I would like to know what you value it at)
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evmetro


Here is a pic of the water pump. I found it on the Koolance website where they sell computer cooling systems. This was meant to cool a computer.

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evmetro


Here is a pic of the drivers side engine mount all cleaned up. You can see my custom aluminum mount bracket that allows me to mount the tranny in the right spot to use 3 speed auto 4 cylinder axles on my five speed. That is 4.5 inches closer to the drivers side than it was with the 3/5 setup.

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These motor mounts look pretty cool when you clean them up, so here is the passenger side. No pic of the rear mount yet, since my cleaning revealed that it was torn pretty good. I went down to napa to pick up another one but they were out of stock and it would have been 65 bucks. The windshield urethane is drying right now and may be better for running twice the torque anyway.

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Yes that fuse in the pic is heavy duty.. 500 amps...
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evmetro


Yea, it will be for sale, but no price determined yet. If all goes well, you may get to see this at Geopalooza... If it helps any, I personally guarantee that it will be the most expensive metro that anybody has seen to date, and that it will cost more than it did when it was new...
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Coche Blanco
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evmetro
Mar 19 2013, 11:13 PM
Yea, it will be for sale, but no price determined yet. If all goes well, you may get to see this at Geopalooza... If it helps any, I personally guarantee that it will be the most expensive metro that anybody has seen to date, and that it will cost more than it did when it was new...
Still cheaper than a Nissan Leaf...plans for A/C....?
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evmetro


Gotta plug the charger in somewhere... This plug is turned on and off via computer controlled contactors. No shore power will reach this plug unless the key is off and my computer determines that it is safe to charge.

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evmetro


The urethane was dry today on the rear engine mount. Hopefully this will do a better job holding twice the torque. The center through bolt is not tight yet, so the rubber washers look loose. that will get tightened after the motor is in.

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here it is installed... I am kinda glad I posted this pic, because I can see in the pic that the brackets that hold in the steering rack are just not going to cut it. They are going to need some black paint to not look outa place.

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I made the tranny look a little nicer since there is a motor plate that adapts the electric motor to the tranny that is painted blue...

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evmetro


Anyone like spaghetti?

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dayle1960
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Fastest Hampster EVER

Where did you get the window urethane? I think one of my mounts is headed south and as you I am too cheap to shuck out $65 for a mount. How much was the urethane?

Thanks
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evmetro


I got the urethane at Napa for 15 bucks, but it is 3m window weld. I think you can get the other brand for 10.
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dayle1960
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Fastest Hampster EVER

Thanks.

Did you just paint the metal bits on the mounts? They look fresh. Nice.
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evmetro


Yea, i refinished all three mounts. This car had over 280,000 miles on it and everything was either worn out or really ugly.
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evmetro


Did not get much done on this one today, but the axle seals for the tranny are here.

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evmetro


I just got the clutch hubs from the machine shop. 10 of them, and I had one cut longer for this particular motor adapter. All of the new motor plates that I am having made are aluminum and not as deep as this one that is painted body color. Since I already had all my motor mounts fabbed and axles selected for this motor plate, I had this extra long clutch hub made, and it will remain a one of a kind for this car, and all of my future builds will use a hub that is half as long, and motor plates that are half as deep. You can see that this hub looks just like the crankshaft of a 1.0 or 1.3 engine, but has a keyway broached in so that it can mount to my electric motor shaft.

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Next is a pic of my lightened flywheel mounted to the custom hub.

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and of course the clutch. New friction disc, pressure plate, pilot bearing, and throw out bearing.

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Almost ready for the cherry picker.

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evmetro


I was going to say that I dropped the motor in today, but I actually place the motor and tranny under the car and then lift it into place. I debated making the battery tray support to be removable, but when it is welded in it takes up some of the front end flex and makes it handle a whole lot better in the turns. If you look closely in some of the photos, you will notice that the battery tray where the radiator used to be is made of angle iron, but I tied it in to the frame rails with flat stock to allow "some" flex of the chassis.

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I had to take my extra long one of a kind clutch hub back to the machine shop today to have a little bit of length taken off because the the throw out bearing was touching the pressure plate. I had to get a little free play in it. All good now.

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Edited by evmetro, Mar 31 2013, 02:39 PM.
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evmetro


The reservoir on the right is out of an old Honda at pick n pull. I needed a reservoir and filler for my cooling system, and this one looked like it would do, so there it is. The reservoir on the left is obviously the brake fluid, and is still pretty empty since the whole thing was out for paint, as well as the lines. On the good side, at least we know that there will be fresh fluid... Those two relays are for the vacuum pump, and all the red 8 gauge wires are going to my 12 volt post. Since the 12 volt batteries are inside the quarter panel, I needed a post under the hood to use for 12 volt +.

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I also got the charger in. The green is not my favorite color next to the blue, but there it is. The controller is in as well. I have not clamped the fluid lines down yet, as I have to pull them on and off when I fill and burp the system. That is one cool thing about using clear lines... you can see all the bubbles. The temp only goes up to about 130 degrees f on this system, otherwise I would need some more serious hose. As you can see, the controller leans back at an angle, and the maze of cooling passages are all above the two lines that you can see at the bottom. This was not really well thought out, but once the system gets moving real good, it is fast enough to push the air out. I can watch an air bubble enter and exit the controllers chill plate at a speed that makes me feel pretty confident that there is no air trapped at the top.

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