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| 93 geo metro; Starving for oil just rebuilt bottom end | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jan 4 2013, 03:41 PM (725 Views) | |
| case5852 | Jan 4 2013, 03:41 PM Post #1 |
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Geo Mad Man
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Hey i just rebuild my whole engine and when i put it back in my car and hooked everything up everything seemed fine. Then i lost my gas milage droped drastically. Then one morning going to work it would cut out when i came to a stop and the whole car would shake. It started to lose power bad then when i was almost home it started knocking. So i check my rod ends and everyong of them had slack and number 3 was the worse and the oil pan and chunks of bearings in it. I didnt replace the seal on the oil pick up tube so i figured it was sucking air and lost some oil pressure. So i had aonther engine at the house. I rebuilt the blot new rings,rod bearings,mains,all seals and gaskets. I made sure that i replaced the oil pick up tube seal. This block only had 30xxx miles on it but it sat up awhile thats why i built it. So i get it back in the car and it runs fine even better then the othe engine i built. So i took it down the road for a test run and the same thing happend but this time the car would't stay running and it started to knock so i parked it. I only drove it about 4 miles so if anyone could help me that would be awesome. I have put a good deal of money in this car cause it has been in my family since it was new and i love the car and want to get it back up and going thanks. |
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| paul11211 | Jan 4 2013, 04:55 PM Post #2 |
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Maybe you have a bad oil pump? |
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| case5852 | Jan 5 2013, 09:09 PM Post #3 |
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Geo Mad Man
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thats the only thing i could come up with i was just seeing if anyone has had the same problem and if it could have been something else |
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| paul11211 | Jan 5 2013, 09:23 PM Post #4 |
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Did you put all the galley plugs back in? When I did my rebuild, I had it all back together, and forgot the one oil galley plug that is inside the block under the oil pan, well my oil light would be on when I started it, then I found out that it did not have the one oil galley plug! |
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| case5852 | Jan 5 2013, 10:41 PM Post #5 |
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Geo Mad Man
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yea i made sure everything was in there. There is a velve in the oil pump that lets the oil threw and io think it got hung up because both of the motors are old and i didn't think about it but i really just needed to replace the oil pump when i was doind the rebuild. But i got a motor out of a 95 and its running like a champ now. So i got two whole motors that just need new cranks,bearing,and oil pump and they will be good to go. |
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| t3ragtop | Jan 6 2013, 12:08 AM Post #6 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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the valve in the oil pump doesn't let the oil "through," it bypasses oil back to the sump when the pump pressure exceeds 55 psi. 4 miles on an engine with compromised oil pressure means it's toasted. |
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| case5852 | Jan 6 2013, 09:48 PM Post #7 |
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Geo Mad Man
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the first motor i built i went almost 500 miles before it took a dump on me. |
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| Waldo | Jan 6 2013, 11:54 PM Post #8 |
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Jack of all trades, Master of none
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I know that hind sight is 20/20 but for others sake, why would anyone rebuild a engine without installing a new oil pump? Why even start it up without an oil pressure gauge? There's just no reason to toast a perfectly good engine after dumping good money into it.
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| case5852 | Feb 28 2013, 07:15 PM Post #9 |
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Geo Mad Man
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well it worked right before i broke the engine down it was just bad luck, |
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| Deleted User | Feb 28 2013, 07:55 PM Post #10 |
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Deleted User
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The proper time to inspect rod bearing clearance is during the assembly process, not after you knock a hole in side of the block. Plasti-gauge is your friend. Aftermarket rod bearings are not your friend. You'll end up with clearances that are within new or service limit spec with your used rod bearings, if you care to check. Aftermarket rod bearings, generally speaking, are crap right out of the box. I've tossed several sets of new rod bearings in the recycle bin. They are about 0.0005" thinner than OEM rod bearings, and will give you rod bearing to crank clearances that are beyond service limit. Get a Factory Service Manual on eBay. Section 6A1 is loaded with information on how to properly repair engines. |
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| RONNIEREDLINE | Mar 6 2013, 08:39 PM Post #11 |
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METRO MAD MAN
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alot of these cras have the "LETTER" of the rod bearing sizes stamped in the engine block, after you take out the oil pan you will see it on the oil pan rail. also the mains are designated with letters. did you check these? my 98 has these letters. |
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| crankcase | Mar 7 2013, 01:54 AM Post #12 |
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I'm glad you got a good motor and got it in, but alas, it is one that you did not have your hands. What can you do? Sometimes you have to take your lumps. Just consider it money and time spent on learning. Many have gone that same route. You live and learn, and move on. It sounds like you are overlooking important details, obviously. As suggested above, get a factory manual, and study the rebuild instructions. After you have studied the material, you will at least be able to tell a machine shop what you want done. You must do the micrometer measurements, or maybe better yet, have a machine shop do them. There are many things to measure and tollerances to check. These are the difference between a 500 mile life engine, or a 5,000 mile, or 50,000+ mile engine. The measurements are a skill that must be learned; it's almost an art form. I suggest you buy some standards of pricise known values, blocks and rings, and practice untill you can repeat the measurements on them. |
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