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| 92 Geo Lsi sputtering when driving none in park/nuetral; Sputtering when moving, none in neutral | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jan 20 2013, 04:51 PM (1,297 Views) | |
| phyregoldDe | Jan 20 2013, 04:51 PM Post #1 |
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So when I'm driving the car if I push on the gas to hard it sputters. And this happens every time not just sometimes. I have to back off the accelerator in order for it to start accelerating. The part that's driving me bananas is if I'm in park or neutral i can rev the engine to red line with no delay or sputtering everytime. Any ideas? |
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| 1DCGUY | Jan 20 2013, 04:56 PM Post #2 |
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Don't be a "Richard"
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Could be a quite a few things. I had the same problem in the wifes car, and it ended up being the fuel pump was weak. As soon as I check pressure, it was way to low. Ran great with a new pump. That's one idea. Next?? |
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| ILUVGEOS | Jan 20 2013, 05:00 PM Post #3 |
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I have the exact same problem with my 93 hatchback.Haven't found a definite answer on my post.I have yet to test the fuel pressure on my fuel pump.
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| Alpine | Jan 20 2013, 05:02 PM Post #4 |
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1020cc G10 GOML
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what have you done to the car so far. |
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| phyregoldDe | Jan 20 2013, 05:33 PM Post #5 |
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I've put in a a new coil, starter and spark plugs. |
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| phyregoldDe | Jan 20 2013, 07:16 PM Post #6 |
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Update: Okay so I read in another post try taking out the air filter and and give it a go. I took out the air filter and the car was sputtering just sitting there and eventually clunked out. Also when I shifted it it clunked out. Any thoughts? Also the muffler is broke off from the cat to the exhaust, I can't imagine that would make a difference... Edited by phyregoldDe, Jan 20 2013, 07:23 PM.
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| Woodie | Jan 21 2013, 06:27 AM Post #7 |
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That makes me think fuel delivery is weak. When you took out the air filter the engine could get more air. That made the lack of fuel worse. Try driving it with the gas cap off. Best test would be to put a fuel pressure gauge on it. I would think Fuel Injector, Fuel Filter, Fuel Pump, in that order. |
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| phyregoldDe | Jan 23 2013, 09:54 AM Post #8 |
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Woodie, whats the best way to clean them? I was thinking of getting a bottle of fuel injection cleaner. |
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| cwatkin | Jan 23 2013, 01:40 PM Post #9 |
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Change the fuel filter and see what happens. If it gets better, I would put through some fuel injector cleaner and run a few tanks full of gas before changing the filter again. My new to me at the time Ford truck had nearly 300,000 miles when I likely changed the fuel filter for the first time. The substance that came out the inlet side resembled coffee grounds mixed with gas. As you can imagine, the truck ran better for a while but the fuel pump was also on its way out and that had to be changed. I changed the filter again at that time and it was full of crud once again. Conor |
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| Woodie | Jan 24 2013, 06:21 AM Post #10 |
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Fuel Pump and Filter need to be replaced, not cleaned. Fuel injector can usually be cleaned, but usually not by you. bluerhino offers a fuel injector cleaning service here: http://geometroforum.com/topic/5024777 The key, as is in all repairs, is to figure out what you need before spending a bunch of time and money replacing parts in a wild guess.
Edited by Woodie, Jan 24 2013, 06:26 AM.
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| Memphis metro | Jan 24 2013, 06:35 AM Post #11 |
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Very much sounds like a ignition problem. I know you said you replaced the sparkplugs, what about the plug wires, distributor cap and rotor and coil wire? If not, do it. These should be replaced occasionally anyway. They will not break the bank to replace them and could be the problem if you have not done so already. Bad plug wires when under a engine load can spark out of a crack in the wire and ground out causing your condition. A crack in the distributor cap can cause it. Is the check engine light on? Not sure what you mean by the exhaust being broken but another thing to check for is restricted exhaust. Make sure exhaust is not restricted Complete tune up of, plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Throw a new pcv valve now. put a fuel pressure gauge on it and verify fuel pressure is correct If check engine light is on, find what the codes are That would be my course of action . |
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| phyregoldDe | Jan 24 2013, 04:51 PM Post #12 |
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@blue rhino Could this be caused by the ignition itself (where you turn the key). This geo has a generic ignition now because the key broke off. The car does start. I have replaced: spark plugs spark wires coil coil wire The engine light is not on |
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| Memphis metro | Jan 24 2013, 04:56 PM Post #13 |
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Anything is possible. How long has it been since you had the switch replaced? Are you sure the check engine light works? Even though the light is not on, I would still put a fuse in the diagnostic connector and check for codes. Theres a how to in the how to section if you have never done it. Some codes will not kick the light on or sometimes the bulb is burned out. |
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| phyregoldDe | Jan 25 2013, 09:49 AM Post #14 |
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I'll check probably tomorrow, I got a fuel filter already coming in so i'll replace that. |
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| phyregoldDe | Jan 25 2013, 10:36 AM Post #15 |
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@blue rhino Also I know the check engine light is working. I can see it light up when i turn the key over. |
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