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96 1.3L stalled at stop, now won't START!!; new crank seal, wont start now!!
Topic Started: Feb 8 2013, 11:07 AM (859 Views)
gruntvet98
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1st thanx yall for the descriptive post's on how to replace the crankshaft seal!! The only thing I would change about those recommendations: on my 1996 Metro, instead of taking loose 2of3 motor mounts (although now after doing them 3x's I can do it in under ten min!!) Is take the motor mount horiz. bolt on the pass side just under the hood out. Then use a pry bar to wiggle the motor, while also wiggling the crank pulley an VIOLA!! crank pulley out!! w/o taking anything else loose ie motor mounts, exhaust etc.

NOW, after a weak of this care being fixed with a new seal and holding all it oil wonderfully, it stalled at a stop sign!
and won't friggn START!!
I, replace plugs, wires. recheck the timing belt and marks. Ive read alot of posts here this am. Im thinking electrical!?!
I poured a little gas down the TB, NOTHING!! didnt even try to start! cranks and cranks and cranks.
I'm going to check the spark after work, IM NOT A ELECTRICIAN and do not understand multimeters etc.
i did buy a cheap-o light tester....
PLEASE HELP YALL :banghead :banghead :banghead
this is my wifes evryday, get the kids to school etc daily runner!!
Thanx in advance
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Norby
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Where are you located?
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Deleted User
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Did your coil wire come loose from the coil?
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gruntvet98
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in washington state. I moved here from fla actually Norby back in 08. I used to live in Pasco cnty, north of Tampa.
Im a union Ironworker, my union hall is in Orlando tho! I've built many a buildings around Florida state, n the country for that matter!!

I dont have the $ this weekend to just throw at the car, or I would go n buy a ohm/Multimeter.
Got any ideas??
heres a ques, could I take the top clear plastic cover off of the relays with the light bulb type tester i bought to see if those are bad?? The other ones (all black) whether relays or fusible links. I moved around switching and replacing them back in theyre original spot to see if maybe they were bad. ie I moved the headlights relay over to the ign, NOTHING.
Im going to do the screwdriver in the plug wire trick, to see if I get spark when I get home. Is there a way to see if the coil is working or not w/o a MM?? She had just topped off the gas tank, drove about 20 mins and/or 15 miles with no problems. Stopped at a 4way stop, it stalled n won't start. Its a automatic with AC.
Is there a fuel pump reset switch or inertia switch on these cars like on some f.o.r.d.s?

#GeoGlen, no i'm pretty sure I've attached all the new plug and 1 new coil wire/s lastnight correctly.
She has also mentioned that she filled the gas tank full and it did read F on the gauge. But when we got to the house, it shown only 1/2 tank, and we towed it only 5-6 city blocks...
Edited by gruntvet98, Feb 8 2013, 01:04 PM.
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gruntvet98
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the center coil to distributor wire is on all the way. Im a "shade-tree mechanic" n "glorified parts changer!!" LOL
Im fairly good at diagnosing mechanical and structural issues that I can see or feel. But not good at 12v or 6v electricy.
Im at work presently, is there (im fairly certain there has to be) other wires on the coil that I could check?
Or a way to test the coil w/o a MM or Ohm meter?
Hell even if I did get one, I'm not sure how to test the coil...
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gruntvet98
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im in need of some ideas/advice...

thanx in advance!
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idmetro
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When you say you "rechecked the timing belt and marks" does that mean you pulled the timing cover, verified the timing marks lined up, rotated the crank with a wrench 2x, verified the timing marks are onc again aligned and all the teeth on the timing belt are good?

I am a bit suspicious with your sudden stop that you may have a timing belt failure. Get a helper, remove the oil cap, crank the engine and look down inside the valve cover, is the camshaft turning?
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gruntvet98
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Ok idmetro I'll try that. The TB still has good tension, and all teeth on both cam n crank sprockets are intact. I'm about 90% sure it hasn't moved.
I'll know for sure when I lower the motor a little. The factory marks seem to be in the same spot. But I made my own marks, n want to check those.
I borrowed a multimeter, not sure (where the red n black need to be plugged in on it or where to turn the dial) how check the coil with it.
If u know, could u help explain??
My gut says electrical...
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gruntvet98
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Yes the cam is turning
The TB hasn't jumped or lost its tension, from when I put it together last Saturday, n drove it all week...

Does anyone know how I can check the relays or are they fusible links??
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Stiffchezze
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Sir Metrologist

gruntvet98
Feb 8 2013, 11:07 AM
1st thanx yall for the descriptive post's on how to replace the crankshaft seal!!


Are you sure you torqued the center crankshaft bolt down to factory specs? Kinda sounds like the crank pulley came loose. Maybe sheared the crank key? :hmm
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Old Man


check for spark. If no spark...........then maybe you 'injured' the crank sensor since (I think) it is located on the front of the engine where you were working.
The crank sensor is located close to the crank pulley. Remove it and take it to autozone and ask them to compare the ohms reading to a new one. If its not within specs of the new one then replace it.
Edited by Old Man, Feb 9 2013, 03:00 PM.
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nwgeo


Yep check for spark, then fuel-- pull a plug and see if it smell of gas. Then spark at the right time.
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