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The Red Baron; Restoration of a 1993 Geo Metro XFi
Topic Started: Feb 8 2013, 05:45 PM (19,097 Views)
Hydrojim
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I made it back to Cleveland. Left a 6 AM and arrived at 4 PM. accounting for the time change, it took me 9 hours. I stopped once for 15 minutes. so total trip time was 8 hours and 45 minutes and I covered a distance of 540 miles so I averaged a speed of about 62 mph. I hit 90 mph once downhill and I didn't push it any further but it had plenty left in it. I don't have any MPG figures as I don't own a credit card so I have to pay cash at gas stations and I can't get a good number. But It had to be somewhere in the range of 45-50 MPG based on the amount of fuel I roughly used. so looks like everything is running right.

Only problems to note:

rear bearing noise. I have to go through and do rear bearings and brakes as that is one thing I did not do on this project. But that's simple enough

The shift shaft oil seal continues to leak so I'll have to keep things topped off until I can fix that. (syncromesh is expensive :'( )

clutch still releases at the top of the travel. feels like it's worn out already. Being brand new I know that is not the issue so I have to figure that out... I'm thinking I'll have to move the arm on the transmission itself. Kinda makes me wish I would have used the G10 flywheel. but I'll figure it out.

On a positive note:

No indications of a blown head gasket! :rocker

I really like the car and now that I'm home I can get back to working and continue to improve the car even more!

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geo pet
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" my strange addiction "

wow 540 miles is a hell of a test drive lol glad u made it home ok , great job !!! I would have been a nervous wreck with a fresh build like that lol
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Good deal, Jim.

NAPA has KOYO bearings for the rear.

ATM 895 http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Wheel-Bearing-Inner-Rear-Wheel/_/R-ATM895_0257877107

ATM 896 http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Wheel-Bearing-Outer-Rear-Wheel/_/R-ATM896_0257877108

Remove both of the seals from the outer bearing. Remove the inner seal of the inboard bearing. Pack the bearings with grease, and fill the hub about 90% full.

New spindle nuts are available at most auto parts stores.

You'll need to go to Suzuki to get new rear spindle washers.

Perhaps, you won't need to do anything to your rear brakes. Perhaps you will.

You've got to ask yourself. Has it been done? What will I see?

Think about it. Having parts in hand that you don't use is always better that needing parts that you don't have while you car's on the rack.

Beck/Arnley brake shoes are DOT GF rated, which is the equivalent of OEM. P/N 081-2727. Most of the aftermarket replacement shoes are DOT EE rated.

Brake wheel cylinders are cheap and easy to install.

A hardware and spring kit is nice to have.

I got the above from Rock Auto for $39.05 delivered. PM me if you want P/N's and a discount code.

Try not to think too hard and order new drums. Lots of people, including me, have had problems with aftermarket drums fitting correctly. Your OEM drums probably don't need to be machined. But, if you do, it's done for the next 225,000 miles or so.

GG
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Hydrojim
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geo pet- I put 100 miles on it beforehand, but it was still pretty scary. I was just waiting for something to pop or break or burst or bust. but, and I'm not trying to sound too self-indulgent here, I did one hell of a job on this car. I'm really proud of it. Maybe one day it will be on the level of your car!

geo glenn- You always go above and beyond with helping people! Thanks for all the information.
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Hydrojim
Aug 25 2013, 10:30 PM
geo glenn- You always go above and beyond with helping people! Thanks for all the information.
You're welcome. Been there. Done that. Taking off rear drums is a can of worms. Figured you'd figure it out eventually. Better to do the work right the first time than do it right the second time.

I drive, and have driven my Geo Metro's hundreds of thousands of miles over the years. Most of the time, nothing breaks. I've got to do a little more than the usual maintenance to avoid failures. My last trip was 6,200 miles. I had to replace brake calipers at the half way mark. I did a maintenance replacement of the AC belt, serviced the engine coolant down to -37F, and installed a new thermostat while I was at it.

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Hydrojim
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ever break down a transmission to replace the shift shaft oil seal? cause I'm not looking forward to that one.
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Hydrojim
Aug 25 2013, 10:51 PM
ever break down a transmission to replace the shift shaft oil seal? cause I'm not looking forward to that one.
That is not so hard to do at all.

Get the car up on the rack. Drain the transmission fluid. Remove the shifter linkage at the transmission.

Remove the three bolts from the triangular cover on the driver's side.

Paint mark the pieces for reinstallation orientation.

I'm not sure what all you have to take loose to get the shift shaft out, but it's pretty simple, really. I'm thinking there's a plug that has a ball and spring for the shift shaft detent that needs to come out, and the bolt that holds the shift shaft is all that's required. You'll see. Refer to your Factory Service Manual. It has the proceedure.

The shift shaft will come out, remove the seal and install the new seal.

Put the shift shaft boot on the shaft before you put it in the transmission.

Reassemble.

Use red Loctite on the bolt for the shift shaft lever.

You don't really need any sealant on the triangular cover, but a very thin, almost invisible application of Ultra-Gray RTV will do the trick.

Suzuki is the place to get the seal. P/N 25517-60B01.

Suzuki shift shaft boot. P/N 25595-82000.


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Hydrojim
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:deal

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I failed for too much nitrous oxides. I have 2 more chances to make it through before I start having to pay for it. Any ideas?

I'm thinking I'll retard my timing and try to heat up my catalytic convertor as much as possible. Maybe I'll run some kinda of additive in my gas and give it another go.

I know problems with the EGR system could cause this. But I just cleaned all the carbon out when I rebuilt the motor. Also maybe the injector needs cleaned? it could be putting in less fuel than it thinks resulting in a lean mixture?

Anybody know anything else I could try?

I don't really want to buy a new catalytic convertor but I also have no idea if this is the original one which if it is it probably needs replaced. but if a new cat would get me through the e-check, I'd be willing to put one on.

ughh :die
Edited by Hydrojim, Aug 31 2013, 11:20 AM.
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Woodie
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It's "Oxides of Nitrogen", "Nitrous Oxide" is a different thing, bizarrely.

Make sure your EGR system is working correctly Push the diaphragm manually, the engine should almost quit, and rev up the engine to make sure it's working the diaphragm itself. Also, make sure your timing is set to 5° before TDC. More than that burns more efficiently but creates more NOx, less than that dumps unburned gasses into the exhaust, increasing "Unburned Hydrocarbons".

If that doesn't get you past inspection, then a new cat is your only choice.


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Woodie is correct.

However, let me start with CO. You passed CO, but your engine is running fat on fuel.

A friend of mine in California passed emissions testing with CO reading of 0.00 at 15 MPH, and 0.01 at 25 MPH. The average CO in the State of California is 0.17 at 15 MPH and 0.14 at 25 MPH. The California limit is 0.64 at 15 MPH and 0.56 at 25 MPH.

What to consider?

Check this.

http://www.smogtips.com/failed-high-carbon-monoxide-CO.cfm

1. Dirty Air Filter
2. Faulty Oxygen Sensor
3. Defective MAP Sensor
4. Defective TPS
5. Defective ECT Sensor

Air filters are easy enough to change.
Oxygen sensors are cheap enough and easy to change.
You have a manual. Check your sensor outputs.

Now, about your NO.

http://www.smogtips.com/failed-high-NO-nitrous-oxide.cfm

1. Lean fuel mixture
2. Defective EGR system
3. Defective Catalytic Converter
4. High Mileage Engine
5. Engine Overheating

The engine gets input for fuel mixture from sensors. Check them.
You've cleaned your EGR system. Hopefully, you did a good job.
CATCO is based in Hobart, Indiana. They have catalytic converters. http://www.catcoglobal.com/catalogs
Your engine is effectively a high mileage engine. Putting a repaired head on an engine doesn't count as an overhaul.
Engine overheating is possible, although not likely. You might try a 180° F thermostat. http://www.ebay.com/itm/260927356379

Set your ignition timing to the specification on the hood sticker.

What did you do to the head?

Professional overhaul, or a DIY lap and slap job.

Did you have the head milled? How much? Raising the compression will raise NO.

How about your camshaft timing? Standard? Or did you do something creative?

Did you measure the valve stem diameters? Looks like someone chucked those in a lathe and ground a bit of material off of the stems. Always check valve stem diameters. I've found a very few that were below minimum diameter. They didn't go in an engine, they went in the recycle bin or back to the vendor.

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You'll probably squeak by emission testing this time with a new catalytic converter. Between now and the next inspection, your engine will most likely kill your new cat. You can replace it again, or take it back off and save it until you get your engine properly repaired.

A 10 ounce bottle of Chevron Techron Concentrate in a full tank of Top Tier Fuel might help, also.

Other than that, overhaul your engine, or call me. That's what I do. ^o)

Nice work, Jim. I'm glad you got it running. And, I'm really glad you bought a Factory Service Manual. :thumb
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Memphis metro


Just a little tweeking on the distributor timing can affect emmisions. I would give it a shot.
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coveredinsawdust
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This is not advise, just something I did to get thru smog test:

I do not have any expertise in motor mechanics, such as the others you are getting good information from.

I had an 86 Toyota pick up with 326,000 miles on it and I needed to get it registered but it would not pass smog. But I don't remember which part I was failing so this might be an even greater bad commentary. What I did was get the fuel tank down to a 1/4 tank, then put in 5 pints of rubbing alchohol, ran it til it was warm and went and took the test, passed with flying colors, it ran amazingly clean and smelled pretty nice to boot. This is not a cure all but it did give me another year to get the motor into shape.
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Hydrojim
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I caught the ecomodding bug. I figured that since the 3.79 transmission is going back in the car once I rebuild it, I might as well embrace what this machine truly is. A GEO METRO XFI. :thumb

air dam and grille block

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side view camera (installation still underway)

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Next on the list:
new head unit and speakers
Headlight upgrade (I'm thinking H4 upgrade as seen on this site)


By the time I get all this done I think it'll be time to put her up for semi-storage for the winter. In an effort to protect her from the rust, I'll drive my focus in the snow. Plus the 195 width tires, 2600 lb curb weight, ABS, and airbags sound a lot nicer than 155 width tires, 1600 lb curb weight, and...seat belts. Of course this is only for about 3 months of snow season.
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dayle1960
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Fastest Hampster EVER

Is the rear view camera gonna be tied in to the stereo? That would be cool.
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Hydrojim
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I thought about getting a 2 din head unit with an LCD built in and whenever you put the car in reverse the backup camera comes on the screen but those dang things are like $300 and I can get a radio for $30 and an LCD for $30 so I don't really see a point other than the cool factor and the cleaner installation.

Since the dash doesn't have airbags, it opens up all sorts of opportunities for LCD mounting and such.
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