Welcome Guest [Log In] [Register]
Posted ImageWelcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.

You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are features you can't use and images you can't see. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free. If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features:

Join our community!




Username:   Password:
Add Reply
alternator from hell!; G13BB
Topic Started: Feb 12 2013, 05:17 PM (1,180 Views)
Deleted User
Deleted User

brichter14
Feb 12 2013, 09:04 PM
How do u tell if the bearing is bad?
Rotate the alternator pulley with the belt removed. If it turns freely, and smoothly, and makes absolutely no noise, it's good. Adequately lubricated bearings will have a little bit of resistance to them. Bearings that are just about ready to fail due to lack of lubricant will spin more freely, and you will hear a slight crunchy noise. It may not be very loud. Don't worry, you'll be able to hear it eventually.

Quote Post Goto Top
 
Woodie
Member Avatar


I ended up bending the aluminum A/C lines to get mine out.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
sphenicie


HelterSkelter
Feb 12 2013, 08:10 PM
:ermm:

does noone crawl under their car anymore? removing the alternator on a 1.0 is hella easy. getting it out of the engine bay after it is loosened is the hard part.

as for adjusting it on a 1.3, first undo all the wiring, hoses, and engines mounts and unbolt the engine from the tranny, then replace the 1.3 with a 1.0, problem solved.
rather than trying to lift it out the top, drop it down. it will almost fall to the ground.


same thing for an engine swap. i drop the engine and tranny on the ground, then jack the body up and slide the whole works out.
it is also much easier to reconnect the two out in the open.

when i did the 'engine pull' on the convert, i pulled the head cause i thought i could get by with just a head job. no luck. but, with the head off i was able to lift the short block out by hand. it WILL be going back in from below.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
aaronvincent
Member Avatar
Mr Mojo Risin'

Still havent gotten it done. Damn is there a ton of stuff in the way on the G13. My G10 is easy as pie to get to, this one is really in there. The angle for the adjustment bolt is whats killing me, its a very cocked angle and once you get down into it theres a metal bar that blocks all view of the adjustment bolt. So you're doing it blind, doesnt help that a ton of shit is in the way. :banghead
I'm off tomorrow so I'll get to it then :coffee
Oh and Helter, you cant crawl up under a G13BB and take it out. Its wedged almost completley against the passenger firewall/fender area. Its blocked 95% underneath
Edited by aaronvincent, Feb 14 2013, 01:01 AM.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Woodie
Member Avatar


Yeah, I think most folks don't realize what it's like working on a big block. I had my alternator completely disconnected from the car in every way and spent three hours spinning it, pushing and pulling it in every direction, and there was simply no F-ing way to get it out. I was seriously considering removing the steering rack but was running out of time. I decided it would be better to break my A/C than to miss a day of work. Removed all the air intake plumbing and bent a couple of A/C lines to snake it out between the throttle body and passenger side strut tower.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Coche Blanco
Member Avatar
Troll Certified

What does the fsm recommend?
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
piece-it pete
Member
[ *  *  * ]
I changed mine years ago, I don't remember the details, but swear a lot, and I think I undid most of the top of the engine to get it out.

Pete
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous)
« Previous Topic · Engine Tech & Diagnostics · Next Topic »
Add Reply