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Valve problems; May have found our problem
Topic Started: Feb 13 2013, 10:16 PM (2,519 Views)
Cobrajet25
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Just ordered my new injector from Rock Auto. I gotta try this.

A plugged injector makes a lot of sense for burned valves. Some motors burn the #1, some burn the #3, others burn the #2. Maybe this is due to the particular spray pattern the injector has when it partially plugs up?
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wildhair


The screws on the injector cover are a little hard to get out read this.
http://geometroforum.com/topic/4562186/1/#new


Hope it helps :thumb
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Cobrajet25
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wildhair
Mar 1 2013, 08:46 PM
The screws on the injector cover are a little hard to get out read this.
http://geometroforum.com/topic/4562186/1/#new


Hope it helps :thumb
I appreciate it! :cheers

Already discovered how tough these two screws are. The injector in my '97 took a :shit a few months ago, and I had to replace it. Discovered that, as has already been said, it is easier to just replace the upper TB with the injector in it.

But a new injector means fightin' the screws... :coffee
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wildhair


Well I finaly got the head done(I did end up doing the work myself). I bought the G10 rebuild kit from 3Tech.
It took a few tools I didnt have like, a valve guide removal/installation tool, bronze valve guide reamer, and the bronze valve guide cutting oil.

I heated the head by boiling it, and froze the guides in the freezer. Pressed out the old guides using the removal tool and shop press. Pressed the new guides in using the same tool with the installation adapter on. The guides needed to be prorerly sized with a guide reamer. The tools were a little expensive but thats the price you pay for doing it yourself. Besides I like a challenge. ^o) And Im kinda stubborn :lol

The tools are as follows
Kent-Moore P/N J37968 and Kent-Moore P/N J37968-3 (Thanks GG) Bought one on ebay $30.00 ;)
.2165 (5.5mm) Bronze Valve Guide Reamer http://www.cylinderheadsupply.com/kl1185nb.html $45.00
Bronze Valve Guide Reaming Oil - 1 Pint http://www.cylinderheadsupply.com/brvagureoil1.html $9.00
You must also have acess to a shop press.

I replaced the valve lifters with new ones.
The new lifters had way more spring to them compared to the old ones. Maybe the old ones were bad maybe not, but seemed like a good idea just to replace them just in case. I found them on ebay for $55.00 not too bad.

I had the usual timing belt hiccup one tooth off but fixed that quickly.
Im wondering how people are able to overlook this, because the timing mark is way off when you go to time it with a timing light.
The car runs like a champ. :thumb

Thanks again for all your help GG
Edited by wildhair, Mar 8 2013, 11:54 PM.
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Deleted User
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Oh, good. You got the head done.

It's always nice to have the right tools.

Cylinder Head Supply has some awesome stuff. I just bought some small metric ball hones from them today for cleaning little holes.

The Ebay lifters for $55 are really nice. I took one apart to get the preservative oil out. They're really springy. I did check the OD with a micrometer. They're exactly the maximum new dimension. Thank you, China.

Put some high dollar oil in your engine, and hope it lasts for a while. Click on the link in my signature for oil. The first one is the one I use all the time. High dollar, but, you spend more on lunch in two weeks.

Keep your eyes open for a good, low mileage used engine to repair, or not, over the next few months. A good one will have no previous repairs, and will be very clean inside when you look in the oil filler cap. You might actually be able to do a reseal on an unmolested engine and put it in service. I did. There's a good, used, 201,000 mile, unmolested G10 engine in my nephew's '95. It uses a quart of oil every 2,000 miles. Good enough for me.

Glad I could help.

GG

:thumb
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wildhair


Thanks for the advice on oil. I will switch over from quakerstate after a few miles.
Just want to give it a chance to clean the motor out after cracking it open.
I was very careful to keep things clean but whenever you open up the system some crud always gets in.

I was thinking the same thing about another motor. I could rebuild one and have it ready to go if this one keeps having problems.

What I would realy like to do is purchase one of yours as a spare if I could find a good core to ship to you. :thumb
What is the average shipping cost to Idaho? I realize I would need to have yours shipped then pay to ship mine, this could add up in a hurry.

But then again I know you do your best to do a premium rebuild and it might be worth the extra money. ;)
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idmetro
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Not sure what the weight limit is but if you can get it down under their limit, I'm sure a G10 is small enough to go in a cardboard box and ship by Greyhound. Takes a little while but I shipped a bicycle across the country for $75... Certainly worth checking into.
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Deleted User
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I spent a week planning an engine box, and half a day building it.

The old guy at UPS said the kids on the dock would destroy it before it got to Charlotte.

So, I took it out of the box, put it in the back of the car and drove it there.

130 pounds is not over the UPS limit, but by the time I built a box that would survive the dock apes, it would exceed the 150 pound limit.

I have core engines. Let me know when it's time. Mackay, Idaho is not too far off the road to where the "Mrs." lives. Chip in some gas money, and you're good to go.

Posted Image

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wildhair


I will definitely let you know when Im ready for one. Its on the top of the to do list.
Those pictures are awsome. :thumb
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PTA2PTB
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I'm totally awesome! I swear.

wildhair
Feb 25 2013, 11:04 PM
"...some one who has alot more time under the hood than I do."
:O ...coming from someone from Idaho, speaking to someone from Arkansas, I'm not sure that's the vernacular I would have employed. Just sayin'....
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Coche Blanco
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Troll Certified

Geo Glenn
Feb 28 2013, 09:13 PM
I have heard of a G13BA engine or two burning an exhaust valve. Very rare. My 4 cylinder engine has 183,000 miles. It has never been overhauled. It uses a quart of oil every 1,200 miles, and has for the last 70,000 miles.

The G13BA has hydraulic lifters. They are of a different design.

From my experience with the G10 and G13BA engines, I'll say that the G13BA runs a lot cleaner than the G10. I don't know why.

I can run the same oil in my 4 cylinder for 12,000 miles with a filter change every 3,000 miles and remove fairly clean oil. My 3 cylinder oil is much darker than the 4 cylinder oil after only 3,000 miles.
For some reason I think I should remember why the G13BA doesn't burn valves, but I can't think of it right now....
Edited by Coche Blanco, Mar 9 2013, 04:35 PM.
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PTA2PTB
Mar 9 2013, 04:27 PM
wildhair
Feb 25 2013, 11:04 PM
"...some one who has alot more time under the hood than I do."
:O ...coming from someone from Idaho, speaking to someone from Arkansas, I'm not sure that's the vernacular I would have employed. Just sayin'....
:rofl

I love it when you guys talk dirty . . . and to come right out and say vernacular. Oh yeah! :D

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wildhair


vernacular? Isnt that something you should see a doctor for? :hmm
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