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| 89 Metro just rebuilt engine, wont start; I seem to have fuel, compression, spark, and ecu signal but engine wont start | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Feb 16 2013, 01:02 AM (810 Views) | |
| fryeguy | Feb 16 2013, 01:02 AM Post #1 |
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Fresh Fish
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I have been troubleshooting my newly rebuilt 1.0L for the past 10 days since I installed it. On first start up the engine was running rough so I shut it down after about 4 minutes. I got codes 31, 32, 41. I found one broken wire to the map sensor and repaired it. I used a spark tester on all 3 cylinders and saw good strong sparks to them all. I turned my engine over with the crankshaft bolt until the timing mark was lined up exactly with 0 degrees and I could feel it was on the compression stroke. I confirmed the position of my rotor at #1 cylinder and pulled the timing cover off and the camshaft gear timing mark was lined up correctly. I tested the resistance of my coil and my spark plug wires(cap, coil, and rotor are new). According to factory service manual for code 41; i backprobed ecm B2, voltage varied from about 2-4 volts, I backprobed noise suppressor brn and brn/wht wires as well as brn/wht wire from distributor and they alll varied from 2/4 volts as well. After all that I was able to get the engine started again but it had no throttle response I couldn't even get it higher than about 1200 rpm with the throttle depressed all the way. I shut it off and since then I havent even heard the engine try to start when turning it over many times. I had left the neg terminal of the battery unplugged prior to this to clear all codes. Codes 31 and 32 were gone, but code 41 is back (I again repeated all above tests of ignition system with same results). I used a test light on the wire harness for the fuel injector and while cranking with key on the filament started to glow and I could see it faintly dimming and brightening so I assume its getting the correct pulse. I can see fuel being sprayed into the throttle body during cranking. I even sprayed some starting fluid into the engine with fuel injector unplugged and it still didnt even try to start. I just did a compression test and have 135-150 psi in all cylinders (rings havent even been broken in). First question, the flowchart tests as described above for code 41 in the service manual state that voltage should vary from 2 to 12 volts. Does this mean that my variance from 2-4 volts is within range, or is it actually suppossed to change from 2-12 volts? (I have been measuring this with a fluke true rms multimeter set to ac voltage) Second question. I seem to have fuel, spark, compression, and I think I have the spark signal getting to the ecu(someone please confirm this according to my test results) and a signal coming from ecu to the fuel injector. So assuming this is all true how the heck is my engine not starting? Thanks for the help |
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| patrickbruce | Feb 16 2013, 01:14 AM Post #2 |
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average teenage gearhead
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did you rebuild the lifters? if so, did you put them in wrong? Do a compression test... come back with the results |
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| fryeguy | Feb 16 2013, 01:20 AM Post #3 |
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Fresh Fish
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I did not rebuild the lifters, they seemed to be in good shape. The compression showed 135-150 in all cylinders, motor has only been run for a few minutes and has not reached operating temp. |
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| patrickbruce | Feb 16 2013, 01:22 AM Post #4 |
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average teenage gearhead
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they might be holding the valves open.... 135-150 is really low... Take them out, rebuild them, DO NOT PUMP THEM UP!!! re-install. should improve |
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| crankcase | Feb 16 2013, 01:24 AM Post #5 |
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Your problem sounds like a timing problem (belt or distributor). Are you sure timing belt is set correct? It could be a tooth or two off. I would double check that. Some cam sprockets have several marks on them. Also check the infamous ground wires on the back of the intake. This may or may not be a problem for the 1989. Double check the fireing order on the plug wires. |
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| crankcase | Feb 16 2013, 01:29 AM Post #6 |
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By the way, welcome on fryeguy As patrickbruce said, the compression is low, but probably enough to start. I suppose it could get better after the motor runs. |
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| fryeguy | Feb 16 2013, 01:56 AM Post #7 |
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Fresh Fish
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I have checked and rechecked firing order, dist cap has a 1 on it , then going counterclockwise 3 then 2. I have removed and cleaned all my ground wires, and checked them for resistance and they all tested great. The timing belt looked dead on when i installed it and when I rechecked it, but If I don't come up with anything else I will try changing it one tooth forward then one tooth back. I will try dissasembling and cleaning the lifters as well. Looking at other posts i see that they can stay open if they are pumped up with oil, i was not aware of this so I wonder if I pushed on any of them when they were soaking in oil. I really can't remember. What should compression numbers be for a cold engine that has not been broken in yet? If those are low numbers that would def point to rebuilding lifters being a possible solution. |
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| patrickbruce | Feb 16 2013, 02:18 AM Post #8 |
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average teenage gearhead
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Good compression 155+ Great compression 180-210 |
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