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| Drop in fuel economy | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Feb 25 2013, 01:26 AM (1,694 Views) | |
| enoc22 | Feb 25 2013, 01:26 AM Post #1 |
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New Member
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Hi All, I've recently had the head redone on my '95 metro. After i got everything timed and running smooth i did a 80 mile test drive. I was happy to average 47 mpg. For some reason the distributor bolts came loose(i think i didn't tighten one) so the timing got of. I retimed to 8' advance and on the next trip i got and average of 34 mpg I'm not sure what happened. I tried retiming again cause it would idle rought and i notice when in first gear it would bog down for a few seconds then speed up and drive normal. I cleaned out my EGR valce which was pretty gooped up and got an oil/oil filter change(already needed) but still no difference in MPG. i did another trip and got around 34. I notice it idles really low when i first start and feels like it's almost going to dies(like theres a big load on the engine) once it warms up it seems to idel fine, still seems kind low though from what it sounded like when i first timed. I've done a compression test. Results [url=geometroforum.com/topic/5071340/1/]Here[/URL] Nothing too out of the ordinary. Put in a new oxygen sensor a few months ago. It drives fine on the highway. When shifting into first i have to rev it up a bit before putting into gear or it will creep along for a few seconds then speed up. Any ideas what might be causing the issue? Thanks in advance. Oliver Edited by enoc22, Feb 25 2013, 01:28 AM.
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| nwgeo | Feb 25 2013, 01:30 AM Post #2 |
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That is bad-- something is going on. |
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| dayle1960 | Feb 25 2013, 07:29 AM Post #3 |
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Fastest Hampster EVER
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Since I cannot see your compression test results, I can "guess" that the problem lies with a stuck valve lifter. Repost the compression numbers again, please. Have you pulled the trouble codes? Even if the CEL light doesn't come on, you still might want to check for codes. |
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| enoc22 | Feb 25 2013, 10:53 AM Post #4 |
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dayle1960, I haven't seen any CEL lights at all, but i'll see if i can get the codes pulled at my local auto store(i don't have a scanner of my own) My compression test results are as follows: --dry-- #1 140 psi #2 142 psi #3 145 psi --wet-- #1 150 #2 165 #3 160 Oliver |
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| hotwire | Feb 25 2013, 06:17 PM Post #5 |
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Maybe the cap or rotor got messed up from being loose. The first time i timed mine I could not even get it to fire after a few minuets, ended up the rotor and cap were already worn, so just moving it to re-time disturbed it enough to no longer function. |
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| enoc22 | Feb 26 2013, 12:22 PM Post #6 |
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Dayle1960, wouldn't i have more abnormal compression test results with a stuck valve lifter? Hotwire, That might be it. Could a worn distributor cap and rotor cause a loss in power/MPG? Also could being a toothe off on the timing belt cause this? On my commute today i noticed the low RPM power was really bad, almost dying in first. I'll look into a new cap and rotor but i don't want to just start thowing parts at it. Any other thoughts? Thanks Oliver |
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| enoc22 | Feb 26 2013, 02:56 PM Post #7 |
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Could a bad cat. converter be the cause. I haven't checked that yet. Oliver |
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| Memphis metro | Feb 26 2013, 03:05 PM Post #8 |
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For a 95 model all you need to check the computer codes is a spare fuse, check this out, http://geometroforum.com/topic/638390/1/#new Timing belt off can cause power problems but if it ran good for awhile then that should not be your problem. Some codes do not set the check engine light or your bulb may even be burned out. See if you can get any codes off of it. |
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| aaronvincent | Feb 26 2013, 03:07 PM Post #9 |
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Mr Mojo Risin'
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I don't know about anyone else here but that compression looks a bit on the low side? Wet shouldnt be that low for a fresh rebuild
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| enoc22 | Feb 26 2013, 04:46 PM Post #10 |
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Hi, Just check for error codes from the flashing CEL light. I got 3 back: 14 - ECT Sensor Circuit 23 - IAT Sensor Circuit 42 - Crank Angle Sensor Circuit are these somewhat normal, bad, horrible? And any suggestions on fixing? Thanks again. |
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| Coche Blanco | Feb 26 2013, 04:49 PM Post #11 |
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Troll Certified
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Clean the ground on the back of your intake manifold. |
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| enoc22 | Feb 26 2013, 05:21 PM Post #12 |
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I found 2 wire that looked like ground wires(see red circles in photo bellow) clean both of them? |
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| Memphis metro | Feb 26 2013, 05:48 PM Post #13 |
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Here I go again with the red Xs. cant see your pictures Your check engine light should have been on with two of those codes. Does the temperature gauge read half way when the car is at operating temperature? |
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| enoc22 | Feb 26 2013, 06:57 PM Post #14 |
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@Blue rhino, Sorry about the photos, here's direct links to them Photo#1 Photo#2 I didn't have the CEL light come on at all. The temp gauge goes up to halfway when warmed up. The sesnore on the throttle body had the connector come loose but i put it back on and tightened - Thread Here What really gets me is that the first trip was so good and then everything went down hill. Let me know Thanks Oliver |
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| Memphis metro | Feb 26 2013, 07:05 PM Post #15 |
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Thats your ground wires but they look like they are going to be ok. I would disconnect the battery and clean the codes. Drive it a day and see if any of them come back. If one comes back real quick, troubleshoot that code. |
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I'm not sure what happened. I tried retiming again cause it would idle rought and i notice when in first gear it would bog down for a few seconds then speed up and drive normal.





Wet shouldnt be that low for a fresh rebuild
7:20 PM Jul 10