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| Drop in fuel economy | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Feb 25 2013, 01:26 AM (1,697 Views) | |
| enoc22 | Feb 26 2013, 08:09 PM Post #16 |
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Thanks Blue rhino, I'll clean the gounds just to be safe. I'll clean the codes tonight and see what happens tomorrow. Any ideas on the low range power loss? Oliver |
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| Memphis metro | Feb 26 2013, 08:38 PM Post #17 |
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If it ran good and the distributor moved and then run bad then logic says the distributor is not right now. Check and recheck the timing. Those codes do concern me as well. Seeing as how one of those codes is your cam sensor within the distributor, you may now have a distributor issue going on. |
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| enoc22 | Feb 26 2013, 09:40 PM Post #18 |
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I'll see if i can check my timing either latter tonight or tomorrow. I've timed it now at least 4 times but once more once won't hurt. I was able to clear the codes before i drove home from work(40 mile drive) when i got back i checked the for any error codes but just got back the 12. I still only averaged around 35 MPG( i had a bit of a headwind but that shouldn't affect it that much) i also notice that when accelerating the car kinda jerks. nothing big but kinda like the wheels need to be reballanced, but as soon as i let of the gas it smoothes out. So i don't think it's it actuall wheels. This car is really stumping me. Thanks Oliver Edited by enoc22, Feb 26 2013, 09:41 PM.
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| enoc22 | Feb 28 2013, 11:38 AM Post #19 |
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Here's an update. After about 90 miles still no error codes. I took off the distributor cap to check things out, and eventually took off the whole distributor. Nothing too out of the ordinary. I've included some photos of my distributor. photo 1 photo 2 photo 3 I noticed some oil deposits on the distributor near what looked like little vents(see photos above)but they look old. And i couldn't see any signs of drips on the new head. I retimed to 8 degrees advance after getting everything back together. Car still getting 34 MPG. I'm at my whits end of what to try next. Could the O2 sensor be bad(had that happen before about 8 months ago and got a new one)? Any thoughts/ideas of what else could be wrong? Let me know Thanks Oliver Edited by enoc22, Feb 28 2013, 01:35 PM.
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| maddog | Feb 28 2013, 02:30 PM Post #20 |
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enco, try removing the ECT sensor and clean it up to a nice shiny brass color, mine had some crud attached to the end of it that looked rounded, flaked it off and cleaned the entrance hole with some wire. I went from 40 to 46MPG. I was not getting the code 14 all the time, maybe every other week or so... I haven't seen the error code in months now! |
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| enoc22 | Mar 4 2013, 04:44 PM Post #21 |
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Maddog, I took out the ECT sensor, it didn't look too bad(photo bellow) didn't have any deposits on it. It seems like the MPG is slowly getting worse, my last trip i only averaged 26. I checked for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner, couldn't find any. Could the timing belt be off a toothe? Could my O2 sensor already had pooped out(it's only 6 months old) I have a 300 mile trip next week and i'd like to have geo up and fully running before i drive up. Let me know if there is anyhting else i could check. Thanks again for all the help. Oliver Edited by enoc22, Mar 4 2013, 04:57 PM.
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| sphenicie | Mar 5 2013, 06:48 AM Post #22 |
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did you use an OEM type O2 sensor w/ the correct 4 wire plug, or a universal crimp on cheapie? |
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| enoc22 | Mar 5 2013, 11:14 AM Post #23 |
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@sphenicie, i used an oem type with the 4 wire connector. |
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| dayle1960 | Mar 5 2013, 06:59 PM Post #24 |
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Fastest Hampster EVER
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When you timed it, did you jumper the connector on the firewall next to the front driverside strut mount? |
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| nwgeo | Mar 5 2013, 11:44 PM Post #25 |
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Are your brakes hanging up? They may or may not be hot but still could be dragging. Rear drums spin them--- they should spin freely. Front should also spin fairly free but for the trans resistance. Pads on front should move--not froze up on pins--check it out. Are you all runing 85E oxygenated gas down there--hurts the MPG. Your compression is not that great. |
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| Vkhelldog | Mar 5 2013, 11:51 PM Post #26 |
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Those compression numbers are not very good... Was it a top end rebuild or bottom or full? |
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| enoc22 | Mar 6 2013, 07:00 PM Post #27 |
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@dayle, yes i jumped the conector with a paper clip, i had a sticker on my hood which showed which to jump. @nwgeo I havn't noticed anything with my breaks, i've been planning on getting new pads in the next few weeks and have someone look at the drums. @Vkhelldog I had a full rebuild rebuild 2 1/2 years ago, and just recently just had the head machined and a few new valves. On a whim i moved my timing belt ahead one toothe, and re-gapped my spark plugs to a slightly smaller gap. On the commute the next day(80 miles round trip) i averaged 64 MPG(mostly Highway), engine ran super smoothe and power was great. Checked it with a timing light and i'm at 20' advance. Not sure what to think here. Oliver |
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| mikeallen2112 | Mar 6 2013, 07:43 PM Post #28 |
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Well if it works dont mess with success lol |
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| enoc22 | Mar 6 2013, 10:55 PM Post #29 |
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@mikeallen2112, i totally agree haha! I'm crossing my fingers that i get the same MPG on my commute to work tommorow. If so i should be good to go as long as my motor isn't getting some sort of hidden damage. Oliver |
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| dayle1960 | Mar 7 2013, 04:31 PM Post #30 |
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Fastest Hampster EVER
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Do you have a factory cam or a special grind on the cam? If you have a special grind, like a 3tech econo-cam, then you will need an advanced/retard timing cam sprocket. |
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