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| Wouldnt start after stopped but then it did? also running rich?; A few questions | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Mar 6 2013, 07:59 PM (614 Views) | |
| mikeallen2112 | Mar 6 2013, 07:59 PM Post #1 |
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I was just at a gas station with my gf after running some errands. The car was off and on at least twice before and then I turned it off to go into the gas station. When I came out it wouldnt start. It would crank but not start. A few times it sort of stumbled. I popped the hood and checked battery cables. Tight no corrosion. I jiggled the fuel return line and that didnt help. All connectors were tight, no weird smells, all fluids regular. I got back in and it still wouldnt start but was stumbling. I gave it some gas like it was my old Ford in the winter and finally it started and purrs like a kitten. I drove it home with no problems. What could be the problem? Im thinking maybe battery but it was bought 11/2012 im having that checked tomorrow. The alt was tested a few months ago and checked out, plus everything seems to be charging fine. Brights are bright and music is fine. Maybe starter? It sounded like it was cranking pretty good. **Bonus question maybe related? It seems to be idling high in park maybe in drive too and running rich. What should I look into for that? Thanks again Geo Wizards |
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| t3ragtop | Mar 6 2013, 08:16 PM Post #2 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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the psychic mechanic sez: bad clt sensor. |
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| mikeallen2112 | Mar 6 2013, 08:36 PM Post #3 |
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What is that and where is it located?? |
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| mikeallen2112 | Mar 6 2013, 10:34 PM Post #4 |
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Could the clt sensor be causing all of this? Or just the high idle problem? Is the clt sensor the coolant sensor? Is it the weird one that screws into the thermostat area? |
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| crankcase | Mar 6 2013, 10:50 PM Post #5 |
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If it cranks normally, the battery must be good I guess? Also, if it cranks normally, the starter must e good I guess?? Checking out the clt is always a good idea, but also start from the beginging, start from the basics. Maybe a tune up is in order? For high idle, manybe flush the coolant hoses in the intake (search under high idle, there are tons of posts)? A compression test is always a good idea for an old motor. Read up on that too. Be sure and check the "how to" section of the forum. |
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| mikeallen2112 | Mar 6 2013, 11:11 PM Post #6 |
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Well it has fresh plugs, distributor and rotor. Plugs are NGK, gapped at .40 The plug wires look really good but I might replace them soon anyways. It runs good besides a little rich. And that's what I was thinking on the starter and battery. But it wouldn't be the first time I've purchased a sketchy battery from the all powerful Wal*Mart. I'll rent a compression tester tomorrow and check but hopefully the readings are good since it's a fresh re-build lol and again it's weird because once it's started and going it has 100% more power than I've ever had with it. |
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| crankcase | Mar 7 2013, 12:27 AM Post #7 |
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Good, hopefully your engine rebuild was done well. If so, compression should be good. About the battery, think about it. If it cranks well, it is good, right? The lights are nice and bright too. Same with the starter, think about it, if it cranks well the starter is good. The way you describe the problem, the battery and starter are fine. They are not related to the problem; they are doing their job. Flush the coolant hoses in the intake, a common problem for high idle. If they are blocked, no hot coolant reaches the sensor. Computer thinks car never gets warmed up, so it keep the idle up waiting for the sensor to show coolant at operating temp. Check every old vacuum hose under the hood for cracks or broken section, especially the hard to reach ones which tend to be neglected. Then check them again. Many who do this do not find a break untill the second or third time around. Also verify fireing order on plugs/rotor. Have you checked timing recently (jumper must be installed to properly do so)? Edited by crankcase, Mar 7 2013, 12:41 AM.
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| mikeallen2112 | Mar 7 2013, 03:06 AM Post #8 |
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I guess I'll just replace all of the vacuum lines to be safe. They are like 20 years old lol How much hose should I need? And No I haven't verified timing with the jumper, I get paid tomorrow so I can rent a timing light. |
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| mikeallen2112 | Mar 7 2013, 03:26 AM Post #9 |
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Whats the recommended advance timing for the most power without killing economy on the g10? 8 or 10 degrees advanced? |
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| Woodie | Mar 7 2013, 05:05 AM Post #10 |
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There is no advance that will kill economy, the more the merrier. There is too much advance that will kill the engine though. If you're not certain that you will hear and recognize ping, then stick with 8° advance. Your other problem is a leaking fuel injector. When you turned the car off it flooded. If it sits for a while, the gas evaporates and there is no problem, a cold engine loves a lot of gas. Send your injector to Blue Rhino and get it cleaned. |
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| mikeallen2112 | Mar 7 2013, 09:33 AM Post #11 |
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Yeah I'll probably just stick with 8°. It's a "brand new" injector. Maybe I'll throw my old one back in and see if it's any better. |
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| mikeallen2112 | Mar 7 2013, 03:05 PM Post #12 |
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Is this the clt sensor you guys are talking about? The one in the air filter housing? because mine does not look this shiny. It's got some crud on it |
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| mikeallen2112 | Mar 7 2013, 07:38 PM Post #13 |
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Well I cleaned all of the gunk off of said sensor and so far so good I guess. It hasnt done the no start thing all day so time will tell. I couldnt rent a timing light and the stores wanted $50+ for one. I dont want to pay for a tool ill use one time and cant return. One of my friends might have one though |
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