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| Tweet Topic Started: Mar 10 2013, 08:34 PM (925 Views) | |
| jkeney | Mar 10 2013, 08:34 PM Post #1 |
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Ok so I am burning oil at an unreal rate already... my compression is 150-90-130 I have a block that has good pistons and awesome seal ( oil has been in it for weeks now and it has not drained at all) the problem is that the key on the crank pully is sheared off, So I am thinking of taking the crank that is in the car now and swapping the bottom end and the cranks. One is a four bolt and one is a five bolt. What problems am I going to run in to here and where should I turn for bearings and such? I just want to get this car fixed finally
Edited by jkeney, Mar 10 2013, 08:37 PM.
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| RONNIEREDLINE | Mar 10 2013, 09:17 PM Post #2 |
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METRO MAD MAN
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what i would do is: install the lower timing belt gear, install the key in the keyway. makes sures its dead on in timing. then drill through the lower timing belt gear in one of the valleys of the gear. tap it and install a set screw before final install, loctite it really well. ive read about it on this forum, they say it works perfect. they even tested it , to try to pull it off and it didnt budge a bit. make sure there are no burrs that would eat up the timing belt. this does work and it saves a rebuild sometimes. ron |
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| jkeney | Mar 11 2013, 11:11 AM Post #3 |
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Oh man the things I have learned on this journey of geo. THANK YOU for the solid advice! I wish I would have presented this sooner and I could have saved some money. So many gaskets have been needlessly installed and removed just to be purchased again : ( |
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| idmetro | Mar 11 2013, 11:20 AM Post #4 |
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Just consider it good training for your long term Metro adventure. You will be much faster next time you have to do the same job... |
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| jkeney | Mar 11 2013, 11:28 AM Post #5 |
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oh yeah I can see the speed of everything I do on this car getting better and better already. I did the engine swap with no air tools and no hoist and it only took a day. I need to get a tapping set and I am going to get on this as soon as I can afford the new gaskets as well. |
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| clarkdw | Mar 11 2013, 11:44 AM Post #6 |
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Install the key and lock it in the correct location with JB weld. File down the excess JB weld to allow the sprocket to slide on the repaired crank. Put the bolt on and make absolutely sure it is torqued properly. Use Loctite on the bolt. The setscrew will help to locate the sprocket till it is torqued up but will do very little to help if the bolt is not tight enough. The rotation of an internal combustion engine is nothing like an electric motor where the motion is smooth. The clamping force of the bolt is the only thing that will prevent damage. Any other methods of holding it should only be considered ways of locating the sprocket correctly till the bolt is tight.
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| Memphis metro | Mar 11 2013, 11:48 AM Post #7 |
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Actually if using a set screw, you do not want to tighten the set screw until you have the gear torqued. Then tighten the set screw. It really does add a lot more strength to everything and with a indentation in the crankshaft secures the gear in a fixed position as well. The setscrew alone is not suffient to secure the gear but it and the bolt torqued is plenty to secure the gear. Tighten the set screw before you torque the bolt might effect your torque of the gear bolt. The gear does not have to be installed in its original location but would be grand if you could get it that way. On a ruined crank, you could just run the gear bolt up good and tight then drill thru your crank gear into the crank just a bit and put your setscrew in the gear tightened into the indentation in the crank to keep the crank gear secured on the crank. Then pull the number one spark plug out of the engine and rotate the engine till you find top dead center of the compression stroke. Once top dead center is found, find what notch on the crank gear is now the proper notch for tdc number one and mark it as the new timing mark to align to the engine block. Forgetting all about the original timing notch on the gear. There is no proper way to repair a ruined crankshaft. Anything you do is going to be a jackleg fix sub par to replacing the crankshaft. |
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| jkeney | Mar 11 2013, 11:58 AM Post #8 |
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indeed |
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| Memphis metro | Mar 11 2013, 12:02 PM Post #9 |
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If you have not seen it, heres the thread with more details. How ever you decide to try to fix it, good luck! http://geometroforum.com/single/?p=583893&t=4464045 |
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| Woodie | Mar 12 2013, 05:15 AM Post #10 |
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This is going to be very random as to valve timing. While it's true that which tooth you use makes no difference, the teeth are 18 degrees* apart. That means that your random method might be as much as 9 off, either advanced or retarded. *Alright, which one of you wise guys stole my degrees sign? I hold down alt and 0176 as usual and it takes me to my home page instead of typing a degree sign.
Edited by Woodie, Mar 12 2013, 05:20 AM.
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| clarkdw | Mar 12 2013, 08:59 AM Post #11 |
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This^ |
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| Memphis metro | Mar 12 2013, 09:07 AM Post #12 |
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When it comes to jack legging a crankshaft, I would take my chances on getting it pretty close. Its all random when your jack legging. |
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| Woodie | Mar 13 2013, 04:16 AM Post #13 |
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Okay° I° found° it°, sorry I accused you all. Num Lock was turned off. |
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| jkeney | Mar 13 2013, 11:10 AM Post #14 |
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HA^ |
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| Deleted User | Mar 13 2013, 06:02 PM Post #15 |
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Deleted User
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° Hey! It works! |
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