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Mullet's Magnum Metro; It's like getting Christine back except with Balls!
Topic Started: Mar 29 2013, 08:10 PM (9,130 Views)
MarkZ28


Coche Blanco
Apr 23 2015, 08:59 AM
Johnny Mullet
Apr 23 2015, 06:12 AM
There are many 1.3L 16 valve engines in junkyards with low miles. I think it will be easier to just replace it. I gotta pull it to do the clutch anyway.
Ugh, maybe in Ohio!
Theres a 2000 2 door with the 1.3 auto at LKQ in Huntsville. Its gold. I got the valvecover off of it, tried getting the exhaust manifold but it was cracked. Some got the intake and coilpack assembly, including the mount. Cam had a very light coat of rust on some of the lobes, but salvagable. Been a few weeks though, may still be there.
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Johnny Mullet
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Fear the Mullet

I get a 1 year 12k warranty with the engine I am buying.
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Greywolf
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Mostly Harmless

What header is on it?

Is that a team Suzuki or a less pricey one?

* I know, parts are just expensive because they are, but still... I last saw a header like that listed at $275.oo, and I can get headers for V8 engines for that much (a pair of them)
Edited by Greywolf, Feb 24 2016, 07:06 PM.
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Johnny Mullet
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Fear the Mullet

Member Woodie would know how old it is, but it's a Suzuki Racing Development header. It's rusty, but no holes. I also need to make a frame repair on the left front at the control arm mount. I will be doing the work at the shop I work at and the fabricator guy says he can fix it up no problem. He said he can stay after work and help me next week :cheers

I'll get some pics up tomorrow.
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Car Nut
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Johnny Mullet
Feb 24 2016, 04:50 PM
I get a 1 year 12k warranty with the engine I am buying.
$400 & that warranty is a nice deal. Keep us posted.
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Swapmeetlouie
Member
[ *  *  * ]
:drool
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MarkZ28


The Suzuki Racing header is $239.
Its on my list to get someday.
Racing Header SOHC 16V

Exhaust System
Product 3/10
Previous Return to the Product List Next
Racing Header SOHC 16V
larger image
$239.99
FOR G13B AND G16A 16V SOHC ONLY. In USA fits Suzuki Swift 1998 - 2001. 4:1 Header using 1 3/4” dia. Tubing using mandrel bent engineered curving, lengths and interior collector found only in racecars, to obtain the best HP numbers. You will need to weld only the matching flange included to your exhaust piping. (Addition of a flex pipe is recommended but not necessary as our bolt-on accessory kit is included). In this case you will get:

1 flange welded to the collector
1 additional matching flange and flared pipe
1 gasket
2 bolts, springs, nuts and washers

Beautiful Stainless Steel 304 and TIG welding.

APROX. GAIN: 11 HP 1.3L 15 HP 1.6L
Better gas milage
Considerable weight reduction compared to stock system.

Add to Cart:

Add to Cart
Model: SUZ-TNT-7008-SS
Shipping Weight: 16lbs

Please Choose:
Engine Size1.3L
1.6L

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sibom
New Member
[ *  * ]
Saw the whole thread, sweet looking Metro! Liking the exhaust setup and the new tips.
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terry8750
terry8750

u can get a honda civic header on ebay for 42 bucks and modify it by swapping the flanges to make a dirt cheap header for a metro as well
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Woodie
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http://www.pt2w.com/srd/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9&products_id=101

It was the second one made by Suzuki RD, about twelve years ago. Took three hours of filing the holes to get it to match up to the head. Started rusting about twenty minutes later, must be some special type of Stainless Steel. 11HP? Love their optimistic predictions.
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Johnny Mullet
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Fear the Mullet

I was supposed to stay after work yesterday to get the junkyard engine ready to go for the swap, but ended up working late, so tomorrow on my day off I will get the engine read where there will be no interruptions. Here are a couple pics until the next update.........

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bikeAmusPrime
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This car is making me really like the newer Gen metros. Thanks for posting your project.
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Johnny Mullet
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Fear the Mullet

I spent the morning on my day off at the shop getting this junkyard engine ready for the swap. New cam seal, crank seal, timing belt, plugs, wires, and thermostat. Will do the swap after work Saturday..............

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Johnny Mullet
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Fear the Mullet

I stayed after work today to do the engine swap. I read somewhere on here that to pull a 4cyl, all you need to do is remove the crank pulley to give you enough room. Well maybe for an auto, but not for a manual! I can do a 3 cylinder engine swap in 3 hours max, but this 4 cylinder took me 8 hours! The axle bolted to the engine. The rear tranny mount bolted to the engine. The A/C crap in the way which is now all in the scrap pile with anger destruction. The no room to just yank engine without dropping tranny. Swapping flywheels. The discovery of the rear coolant tube being different after the engine was in. The throttle body complete with IAC, TPS, and other shit being bad causing a high idle, and the stupid right axle coming apart when I pulled it hastily and separated it inside the boot :smackface

It was a learning experience for me because every 4 cylinder Metro I worked on was an automatic and I was not familiar with the mounts and other differences. I was also very angry to find out the frame horn was rotted worse than I thought. My buddy Ron who is the best fabricator I ever met stayed over and helped me. His duty was to fix the frame, but he also helped with the grunt work. Here is how bad my frame was and his repair.................

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Ron was thinking it was funny that a Geo Metro has no need to use a cherry picker, engine hoist, or a chainfall to do a motor swap because the engines are so light! He picked the motor right off the cherry picker after I swapped flywheels and installed the new clutch and said........

"Hey man! Get your camera and take a picture of this...........

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Regardless of all the extra work, my car runs freaking AWESOME and no more smelly exhaust! I figured that since I got the car 3 years ago I did nothing to it but beat the shit out of it trying to kill the motor, the least I can do it drop a good engine in it. Even though the frame was rotted (there is more rot, but I'll show it later) I remember my first Metro went four years even after 3 frame repairs and this Metro just had it's first repair so I am good with that.

Remember, when I first got this car, it was totaled. All I can do is try and keep it alive! And the 12 year old header is rusty, but not leaking. The replacement motor's stock manifold was cracked as expected.

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Johnny Mullet
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Fear the Mullet

One more thing. My electrical tape pin striping is 3 years old and still looks like the day I put it on to match the replacement front fenders. My buddy commented on that ;)
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