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I think it's rebuild time; 93 engine rebuild
Topic Started: Apr 15 2013, 01:54 PM (2,451 Views)
coveredinsawdust
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I just completed a compression check on my 93 metro and it seems I should be looking for some rebuild parts.

The test had the following results. I should note I'm not sure which is cylinder #1 so I'm counting from the distributor toward the pulleys.

Dry:
#1 = 0
#2 = 108
#3 = 119

Wet:
#1 = 0
#2 = 120
#3 = 120

The amazing part is, it appears I'm only running on 2 cylinders but am still averaging 41 mpg but this last tank was down to 38 mpg.

So now what? Do I have to tear the motor down and start measuring everything to see what needs to be replaced, such as bearing? Or just get stock size rings and plan for a valve job? I have read the motor rebuild threads, bottom end and heads, and would like to give it a try, as much as I'm capable to doing.

Thanks for any help,
Dennis
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Memphis metro


Number 3 is by the distributor. number one, two, three. From left to right. Did you have the gas pedal to the floor when you tested? Sounds like the dreaded burnt valve.
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Hanuman
"The Almighty Grounds Cleaner"

wow! 0 psi huh? you even beat me on this one.....my #1 was 18 psi.
but, 40 mpg? and you are still running on 2 cylinders....so......i still win!

mine was running on 1 cylinder.....slowly went from 54 mpg to 20'sh when i parked it.
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coveredinsawdust
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blue rhino
Apr 15 2013, 07:21 PM
Number 3 is by the distributor. number one, two, three. From left to right. Did you have the gas pedal to the floor when you tested? Sounds like the dreaded burnt valve.


Yes, the gas pedal was at full throttle. I couldn't believe that it had no pressure so I did it twice and got no response. The spark plug in #3 (thanks for the clarification) has been getting fouled out rather quickly.
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coveredinsawdust
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Hanuman
Apr 16 2013, 02:05 AM
wow! 0 psi huh? you even beat me on this one.....my #1 was 18 psi.
but, 40 mpg? and you are still running on 2 cylinders

Yup, drove into work this morning. Runs rather smooth other than the occasional hick-up when accelerating. At highway speeds it runs well, I never would have thought I was on 2 cylinders.
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coveredinsawdust
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So here is my questions concerning these motors.

#1- do I need to replace the rod bearings and if so does the crank need to be turned to fit the new bearings, and also the same question for the crank bearings?
#2- how can I tell if this has been bored to an oversize piston already, what is the standard bore size?
#3- Can you guys offer advise for the things that should be repaired/replaced while I'm doing this rebuild? Things you guys had to replace that you maybe didn't plan on when you started your rebuild.

I'm a cabinetmaker by trade and restore older wood working machinery so my mechanical abilities are up to the project but I have never rebuilt a motor before so any advise is welcome and appreciated.

Thanks for the replies.
Dennis
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Memphis metro


It all depends on what you want. If you want it done right, take it to the machine shop and let them check and do what needs to be done. If you can settle for less, then leave the engine in the car and pull the oil pan and push the pistons out, rering them and throw some new valves in the head and roll on. It really depends on what you want. Professional engine rebuilders will replace engine bearings every time. A close inspection of the pistons can reveal if they are oem or not. Oem will have chrome rings as well. If the crank rod journals measure within tolerance then it does not need to be ground and you can use standard rod bearings.
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Coche Blanco
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When you do the rebuild, it will feel like a new car. :thumb
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Yup. Zero = something wrong. Probably an exhaust valve.

You can do it yourself, or send me a PM.

I can build you one, or help you through the jungle.

Glenn
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HelterSkelter
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i run on all 3 and get 36. ya'll must be driving HELLA slow.
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Hanuman
"The Almighty Grounds Cleaner"

driven slow? i had no choice....was one one cylinder! at 20 mpg....plus a quart of oil every 100 miles.
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coveredinsawdust
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HelterSkelter
Apr 17 2013, 01:47 AM
i run on all 3 and get 36. ya'll must be driving HELLA slow.
I was so surprised at how zippy my car was I ran it a little hard, racing it around and pushing up to 70 mph on the freeway, which could be the reason for the burnt valve. I average 55 to 65 depending on the speed limits, which around here are low.
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coveredinsawdust
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So I found a motor on CL and am hoping to rebuild it and then just swap them out so I don't have to give up driving maximus. I bought this thinking it would fit, how can I tell if it will? As the seller was leaving, he dropped it off at my work, he came back and handed me a bucket with the pistons in it and said he almost forgot to give me theses. If I'm suppose to keep everything in order when taking it apart how can I get theses back in the right holes or do I just pretend these are new pistons and fit the rings as such?

What should I look for to make sure this engine is rebuild-able?

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Deleted User
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Most engines are good cores. Some are suitable for installation as is with a little bit of clean up and reseal.

Show stoppers are:

1) Crankshaft Woodruff keyway :screw Get another crankshaft.

2) Camshaft bearing surfaces :screw Get another head.

3) Holes in the side of the block. :x Get another engine.

Everything else is fixable.

Looks like you've got a nice wood working shop there sawdust. :thumb
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coveredinsawdust
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Geo Glenn
Apr 17 2013, 02:05 PM
Looks like you've got a nice wood working shop there sawdust. :thumb
Thanks. Here are a few of my favorite toys.
A late 1800's Hall & Brown Bandsaw.
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195ish Walker Turner lathe.
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