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| I think it's rebuild time; 93 engine rebuild | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Apr 15 2013, 01:54 PM (2,454 Views) | |
| coveredinsawdust | Apr 18 2013, 07:58 AM Post #16 |
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Elite Member
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So here are some more questions: Are all g10 motors the same? Is there a 1.0 and a 1.3? I've read that burnt exhaust valves are common, was this due to bad materials in stock parts or just a cause effect of how the combustion chamber burns? will adding stainless steel valves solve this issue? I'm gathering a list of parts and will post it to get some feedback. |
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| Deleted User | Apr 18 2013, 08:31 AM Post #17 |
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Deleted User
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The OEM exhaust valves are stainless steel, as well as every aftermarket replacement that I have seen. Find a magnet and check. The OEM intake valves are also stainless steel, although it is a magnetic variety. This is not the reason that exhaust valves burn. Lack of routine oil changes and use of high ash, low detergent engine oil is the primary cause of burned valves. For a list of good parts, click on the "My favorite engine parts" link in my signature. It is best to measure everything prior to ordering parts. Most of the G10 engines that I see need the crankshafts ground, and the cylinders bored. A factory service manual is very useful for engine overhaul. There are a couple of varieties of 1.3 liter engines available in Geo Metros. They're pretty bullet proof. |
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| Woodie | Apr 19 2013, 05:34 AM Post #18 |
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The G10 from 89-00 changed very little. There were three different schemes for the timing and accessory belts and pulleys, two different oil pumps for with or without crank position sensor, and a lot of different sensor and control setups, but the head and block stayed the same for the entire run. The G13 is the same block with an extra cylinder, same external differences listed above, made in two varieties of bottom end, G13A and G13B (basically, hollow crankshaft or solid, more robust crankshaft), and with four different head designs. I differ in my opinion of what causes the exhaust valves to burn, I think it's more to do with late ignition timing and the charge is still burning when the valve starts to open. Mine is based upon theory and Glenn's is based upon direct experience inside a crapload of engines, so maybe I should just shut up right now and minimize the damage. Whatever, they usually go 150K miles, that's not bad for a crappy little $6,000 car. Edited by Woodie, Apr 19 2013, 05:34 AM.
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| coveredinsawdust | Apr 23 2013, 08:52 PM Post #19 |
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Elite Member
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Thanks for the reply Woodie. After a little chat with Glenn I decided to pull the head off the motor I bought (we will call it #2)in hopes the valves were good and I could do head change and get some better miles out of my running motor (we will call it #1) until I get the new one finished. Well wouldn't you know it the exhaust valve on cylinder #1 was burned on that head. Razzamataz. So I putt on up to the local cylinder head shop and drop off my head, should be done in a couple of days. I figure I might as well re-ring the motor while I'm waiting. The cylinders in motor #2 seemed in good shaped, could still see faint honing marks. The crank did have a little to much end play, I did not measure but it was more movement than I felt comfortable leaving no that I know about it, so I ordered some thrust bearings in hopes that will solve that issue. While taking the block apart to check everything and get it cleaned up I came across this part and have no idea what it is. See picture. It rotates with the crankshaft, is it some kind of speed sensor? ![]() Here are the only number I have found on the block so far. Do they mean something? Will deciphering these alpha numeric codes bring me untold wisdom and knowledge? (sorry, to many late nights working on this thing) ![]() |
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| nathan298 | Apr 23 2013, 08:59 PM Post #20 |
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Geo Resurrector
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That part in the top pic is the oil pump. And I believe those numbers represent different sizes of the cylinders. Mine is 111, other people have 121, 221, etc. |
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| Deleted User | Apr 23 2013, 09:26 PM Post #21 |
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Deleted User
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Yup. That's the oil pump. Hone marks visible in the cylinders is a good sign. Check the pistons for cracks. http://geometroforum.com/single/?p=632045&t=4753321 The 222 is the graded diameter of the pistons. The "1" pistons are slightly larger in diameter. EVE piston rings gap up tighter than all the rest. Ebay. Call these people on the phone, or send them a message and make sure they have the standard size EVE rings in stock. NPR are OK, but they gap 0.003" looser than the EVE. Yes, it's 4 cylinder set. Same rings as the 3 cylinder. http://www.ebay.com/itm/250743961619?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649 The BBBB is the ID of the bearing bores in the block for the main bearings. They correspond to the 4 numbers on the #1 counterbalance on the crankshaft. Mark the position of all the bearings on the back side of the shell with a scribe for reinstallation. If they look good, they probably are. Here's a set that's ready to go back in service, soon. New limits. ![]()
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| Coveredinsawsust | Apr 24 2013, 09:45 PM Post #22 |
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Fresh Fish
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Thanks for the fast response guys. Do i need to use a regular oil for the break-in? I think I read that somewhere. Can I just use the synthetic right from the start? Dennis |
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| nathan298 | Apr 24 2013, 09:50 PM Post #23 |
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Geo Resurrector
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I believe regular is best for the break in. Hopefully someone who knows what they're talking about will chime in and say for sure..haha |
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| Hanuman | Apr 25 2013, 05:27 AM Post #24 |
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"The Almighty Grounds Cleaner"
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regular for break in period |
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| Deleted User | Apr 26 2013, 06:42 AM Post #25 |
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Deleted User
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I haven't used any oil other than what I'm planning to use for the life of the engine for break for the last 20 years. For the Geo Metro, lately I've been using Liqui-Moly 5W-30 Top Tec 4200 Longlife III, P/N LM2011 for a 5 liter bottle at NAPA. http://geometroforum.com/topic/4141719/1/?author=1487815 Also, available on Ebay for your shopping convenience. http://www.ebay.com/itm/121014180698?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649 Break in tips. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm |
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| snowfish | Apr 26 2013, 07:35 AM Post #26 |
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Basic GearHead
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Even for first fire? You know, the start for the first time, bring up to temp, shut it down, drain oil, new filter, re-fill, and go take a drive? I go through 16 quarts in the first 500 miles. First fire, change, "the drive", change, 100 miles, change, 500 miles change and then drive happily the next 3000. Or maybe that's a little excessive.
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| Coche Blanco | Apr 26 2013, 09:05 AM Post #27 |
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Troll Certified
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I think you're at least 4 quarts too high. |
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| Deleted User | Apr 26 2013, 09:09 AM Post #28 |
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Deleted User
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Yup. Even for the first fire. What goes in the hydraulic units of the lifters stays there more or less forever. Purolator PureONE filters are 99.9% efficient. They're the "Roach Hotels" for engine oil contaminants. ![]() |
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| coveredinsawdust | Apr 30 2013, 09:21 PM Post #29 |
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Elite Member
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So I'm in process of putting the motor back together. Against Glenn's advise, yeah I'm hard headed have to learn the hard way, I got a gasket kit from parts dinosaur. Its seems to be very thorough as Ill have extra since the oil pump and water pump came with their own gasket and in the kit as well. edit: not that he has said anything against parts dinosaur, but he has a list of his favorite parts and I was too lazy and short on time to make all those orders. Here is my confusion. There is a roll of foam type stuff, what or where does this go? Any idea? ![]() There is also this cork one. ![]() And two of these little round guys. They look like what was one the oil pump to seal the crank shaft, but why would I need two? ![]() Any help is appreciated. Dennis Edited by coveredinsawdust, Apr 30 2013, 09:24 PM.
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| Coche Blanco | Apr 30 2013, 09:33 PM Post #30 |
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Troll Certified
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Two little ones are cam and crank seals. On the accessory side of the engine. The foam is for your timing belt cover. |
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You know, the start for the first time, bring up to temp, shut it down, drain oil, new filter, re-fill, and go take a drive?
Or maybe that's a little excessive. 



7:22 PM Jul 10