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single barrel x 3!!!
Topic Started: May 22 2013, 01:45 PM (1,920 Views)
Beer4Blood
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So how many fine folks here have foregone the horrendous impeding throttle body and opted for three single barrel carbs?? sounds like a good idea in my head......
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Coche Blanco
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Papa_G
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:thumb
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evmetro


That should go into the gmf calendar. ?.
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evmetro


Looks like that timing belt cover would save a lot of time changing a water pump. Is there a build thread on this? I feel like I missed a cool build...
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Coche Blanco
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http://geometroforum.com/topic/2403574/1/
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Murf 59
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Coche Blanco
May 22 2013, 02:19 PM
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Hey I recognize the sockets hanging in the back ground of that pic. LOL That paticular set of carbs did not work worth a hoot. We spent a lot of time and money on it. I am not done with the idea though. Our friend from MinnsotaDuane did a set also. One mistake I made when making the manifold was making it level. These carbs were designed to set a slight angle. And I think they throut was to large in each one. I would run smaller carbs next time.
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Murf 59
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That first manifold was made from scratch. My latest one was made from a stock intake. I milled off the TBI flange and tubes. So that just the side that bolts to the head was left. Then I counter bored the new tubes in place and the correct angles needed to match the angles the carbs set at on the bike. I think one of the mistakes with my first try was the carbs could not equalize pressure between them selves??? Maybe? So I used the stock intake flange. It has a been cross drilled from the factory so it can equalize the difference in pressure between each of the three runners. I hope.
The first set did look bad ass though. And when they did all work at the same time. It was mind blowing. But keeping them all running at the same time was to much.
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thresher shark
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Fresh Fish...mmmm....tasty!

Did those carbs have vacuum ports so you could connect a set of manometers? I used to ride a '79 Yamaha 750 triple (about 80 hp); when the carbs were properly synched, it made a huge difference. I never did find a bike shop mechanic who would bother to do a really good job of synchronizing, so I did it myself. When done right, the carbs would stay in synch for quite a while. This was on an air-cooled engine which lacks the thermal stability of the water cooled G10.
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Tinker1980
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Those carbs are CV carbs with butterfly valves, and a vacuum actuated slide in front of the butterfly valve. They look an awful lot like Ex500 carbs or even three KLR carbs, but since the CVK carbs are used on a lot of bikes, it's hard to be sure.

The reason you had trouble was because of those carbs. Syncing them up will help of course, but that type of carb works a lot better with a properly tuned air filter box.

What you need are some slide carbs or pumper carbs from a 250 dirt bike. The hard part, however, will be getting the jetting right.

For a carb change, I'd look into getting a Weber 32/36 DGAV. Brother had one of these on his Samurai before switching to propane. It was great. I put one on my Mighty Max years back, and it completely fixed every single driveablility problem that little truck had, got me another 4 mpg, and a little more power to boot.
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Beer4Blood
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I've built a rice rocket or two in my spare time.. I was considering those carbs. Thoughts?? Probably some mikuni 36mm or so
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snowfish
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Basic GearHead

Much carburetor discussion can be found here.

http://www.teamswift.net/viewforum.php?f=8&sid=7cff89d0237752c73a36bedb9b55d7d2

:popcorn
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rmcelwee
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There are a ton (50?) Miatas that were modded with IRTBs. You might see what kind of carbs they were using and downsize a wee bit.
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PTA2PTB
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I'm totally awesome! I swear.

thresher shark
May 23 2013, 12:21 AM
Did those carbs have vacuum ports so you could connect a set of manometers? I used to ride a '79 Yamaha 750 triple (about 80 hp); when the carbs were properly synched, it made a huge difference. I never did find a bike shop mechanic who would bother to do a really good job of synchronizing, so I did it myself. When done right, the carbs would stay in synch for quite a while. This was on an air-cooled engine which lacks the thermal stability of the water cooled G10.
I drove a '65 Austin Healey Sprite, back in HS. It had dual SU carbs. I had one of those little venturi manometer doo-dad gauges, that I used to try to sync mine with. Never had the best results, though. IIRC, you were supposed to put some kind of ultra-thin, unobtanium, mineral oil in the hydraulic damper reservoir in the top, to keep the piston slide from acting too jittery.

Come to think of it, you were also supposed to put similar oil in these cast iron, lever arm actuated, box type shock absorbers. And to do it, you either had to unbolt them from the frame rails, and turn them upside down, or turn the car upside down. It's no fu'kn wonder the Limey's lost the Colonies.

I'm wondering if some old side-draft carbs from an AH or Triumph, might not be better suited for retrofitting a G10 engine with? At least they were designed to work with water-cooled car engines.
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thresher shark
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Fresh Fish...mmmm....tasty!

PTA2PTB
May 23 2013, 12:27 PM
thresher shark
May 23 2013, 12:21 AM
Did those carbs have vacuum ports so you could connect a set of manometers? I used to ride a '79 Yamaha 750 triple (about 80 hp); when the carbs were properly synched, it made a huge difference. I never did find a bike shop mechanic who would bother to do a really good job of synchronizing, so I did it myself. When done right, the carbs would stay in synch for quite a while. This was on an air-cooled engine which lacks the thermal stability of the water cooled G10.
I drove a '65 Austin Healey Sprite, back in HS. It had dual SU carbs. I had one of those little venturi manometer doo-dad gauges, that I used to try to sync mine with. Never had the best results, though. IIRC, you were supposed to put some kind of ultra-thin, unobtanium, mineral oil in the hydraulic damper reservoir in the top, to keep the piston slide from acting too jittery.

Come to think of it, you were also supposed to put similar oil in these cast iron, lever arm actuated, box type shock absorbers. And to do it, you either had to unbolt them from the frame rails, and turn them upside down, or turn the car upside down. It's no fu'kn wonder the Limey's lost the Colonies.

I'm wondering if some old side-draft carbs from an AH or Triumph, might not be better suited for retrofitting a G10 engine with? At least they were designed to work with water-cooled car engines.
I had a 1961 Austin Healy Bug-eye Sprite with the SU carbs. I put in a rather huge cam in a later model 1275 cc engine. SU carbs hate lumpy cams. They need a minimum amount of vacuum to idle properly. As I recall, Mr. Murf is running is running a fairly radical cam.
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