Welcome Guest [Log In] [Register]
Posted ImageWelcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.

You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are features you can't use and images you can't see. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free. If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features:

Join our community!




Username:   Password:
Add Reply
92 Metro XFI Loss of Power on Steep Hills; Have to gear down to 2nd gear, 25 mph
Topic Started: May 29 2013, 11:54 AM (821 Views)
originalowner
Member Avatar
originalowner
[ *  * ]
Hi, everyone! I am new to this forum, and introduced myself last week. I'm the original owner of my 92 Metro XFI, with 249,650 on the original engine! All of a sudden about two months ago, it began to lose power going up steep grades. I live at 8700', and drive up to 10,000'. On the flats I could still get up to 80 mph. It was missing a little and I had just put in a new tank of gas, so I decided to wait until I used up the gas and refill to see if it was the gas. (Of course, that took two months! ^o) ) It quit missing after the new gas, but the power was still down on the grades. I took it into the Chevy Dealer and described the problem and asked them to fix it. They ran diagnostics which said it was misfiring. Apparently, it didn't tell them WHY? So they came back and said I needed $600 worth of work (cap, rotor, plugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter, fuel injection service, valve cover (leaking), oil p-an gasket (leaking), left front axle seal leaking). I told them with 250,000 miles I knew it needed a lot of stuff, but I just needed the immediate problem addressed because I am a single female out of work since March. I'm pretty sure the left front axle leak was not causing the problem! :banghead

So they said try the cap, rotor, wires, plugs and fuel filter, and changed the gap in a plug, and that should help the problem. Now it idles rough, misses really badly, and runs worse!!

A) Does anyone know a good Geo mechanic in the Denver metro (pun intended) area? B) if not, before I go to another mechanic who wants to charge me to make my car worse, could it be fuel pump, O2 sensor or catalytic converter? C) if I need to rebuild before it dies, where do I go and how much should it cost?

By the way, I have used a can of Sea Foam in the tank since the work was done, and prior to that always used that engine cleaner performance enhancer additive that the gas pump offers, so thinking it's not a fuel injector issue?

52 year old, single female, at the mercy of the "male mechanics"!!!! HELP!!!! :die
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Tinker1980
Member Avatar


I know of a Metro mechanic in the Denver area.

You.

Nobody else is going to give a half a hump about these cars, certainly not the Chevy dealer. (The metro is actually a Suzuki.) It sounds to me like they have either messed with the timing, or put the wires back on incorrectly when installing the new distributor cap. I'm going to post a couple of pictures for you, so that YOU, capable single female that you are, won't have to depend on an apathetic mechanic to get your car running right.

First picture, looking from the driver's side fender of the car, we see the distributor. Inside of this, there is a part that spins counterclockwise, transferring spark from the center wire (marked "COIL" to the wires going to the cylinders, (Marked 1, 2, and 3) when it is their turn to shine. Also we see the two distributor bolts. These two bolts can be loosened with a 12mm wrench, so that the timing can be adjusted. More on that later. For now, make sure your wires are hooked up as these are - number one close to the top, three on the lower left, two on the lower right. Trace the plug wires back from the plugs if you need to, the next picture shows how they are numbered.

Posted Image

Second picture, here we show the front of the engine, with the spark plugs numbered 1,2 and 3, starting from the belt side of the engine.

Posted Image

Now that you have the wires in the correct position, grab that 12mm wrench, we are going to try something. See those two 12mm bolts in the picture? See them on your car? Loosen, but do not remove them. See the brackets they hold down? Start your car, set the parking brake, block the wheels, and leave it in neutral - we are going to set ignition timing. With the engine running, grab the brackets with your thumb and forefinger, and you will see that you can rotate the distributor forward and back. Notice how the sound of the engine changes. If it slows down/sounds rough after moving it in one direction, move it back the other way. Adjust it to where it smooths out, but don't adjust it so far you get a sharp metallic knocking sound.

Some will say you need a timing light to do this properly, but for right now - we are just trying to see if that's the problem without buying a $50 timing light. If my description isn't very good, or you are having trouble figuring out what to do, let me know - I will post a video showing this very simple DIY adjustment. Then you can do it yourself, and not spend a bunch of money for someone to make it WORSE. :rocker
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
originalowner
Member Avatar
originalowner
[ *  * ]
THANK YOU, Tinker! I'll go and hunt down a 12mm wrench and attempt this procedure. I used to actually work on my old VW Bug about 20 years ago, with that cool little book for idiots! I really appreciate your help and will let you know how it goes!!!

Signed, your hopefully capable female.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
nathan298
Member Avatar
Geo Resurrector

Do a compression test. Sounds like you may have a burned valve.

Compression Test How-To
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Tinker1980
Member Avatar


ngd298
May 29 2013, 01:03 PM
Do a compression test. Sounds like you may have a burned valve.

Compression Test How-To
Simple solutions first. Try the timing before deciding we need to tear down the engine.

Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
originalowner
Member Avatar
originalowner
[ *  * ]
Actually, wondering why the Chevy dealer didn't do a compression test when he had all the plugs out anyway! Will try Tinker's solution, first and then on to compression (a friend has the tool, just gotta get it running well enough to go to the other side of the Continental Divide to have him check it!
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
snowfish
Member Avatar
Basic GearHead

Quote:
 
wondering why the Chevy dealer didn't do a compression test when he had all the plugs out anyway!

Because they wanted to hit you up for all the other stuff first. :smackface Then say, "oh, I guess you need a valve job too". :die

Understand that dealerships consider Metros throw away cars. :shake They'll make sure to gets it to the point that it needs to be thrown away. :die After they've taken a copious amount of cash. :deal

On a Major Praise note for you...........................
You have been doing A Ton of Right Things to have an original Metro with 250,000 miles on it! :thumb You are More than capable to go another 250,000. :cheers

Keep up posted. :type We want you to succeed. :cheers
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
originalowner
Member Avatar
originalowner
[ *  * ]
Too funny AND true, Snowfish! And thank you! I have been religious about changing oil and telling my little car how much I love her every day! :wub:

Ok, Tinker, I performed the task, all wires in correct places, and adjusted timing up a bit. With it a little higher, I could hear a sound I've been hearing for a while at stop signs. Well, lots of rattles, but one loud farty sounding noise in particular. Finally traced it to the muffler, where I can see a hole right at the joint of the pipe and the pan just behind the engine, not at rear of car. Interesting thing is, I paid someone to replace the entire exhaust system about 4-5 years ago in Wyoming, and the noise was still there then, and looking at it now, it looks as old as the car!!! Anyway, I'm assuming that it is a backfire from the engine?

Next step? Aside from hunting down the mechanic who SUPPOSEDLY replaced the exhaust system and running him over? :-/
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
originalowner
Member Avatar
originalowner
[ *  * ]
Ps. It also occasionally sounds like there is clanging in the engine. When I start it up at first, there is a metal rattle that stops if I push in the clutch. Had a mechanic look at that about three years ago and said not to worry about it. The power loss only happened a couple of months ago.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Woodie
Member Avatar


originalowner
May 29 2013, 02:33 PM
Too funny AND true, Snowfish! And thank you! I have been religious about changing oil and telling my little car how much I love her every day! :wub:

That's exactly what it takes :lol 99% of Metros need a rebuild before 250K miles, that's almost certainly your problem. A compression test will tell for sure.
Quote:
 
Next step? Aside from hunting down the mechanic who SUPPOSEDLY replaced the exhaust system and running him over? :-/

Go after him fast, your car won't have the power to get over him pretty soon.

Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous)
« Previous Topic · Engine Tech & Diagnostics · Next Topic »
Add Reply