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Hogleg's Gremlin; All Killer, No Filler 91' Geo Metro Convertible Hogleg Edition. Build in progress. Photo rich with zinc!
Topic Started: Jun 28 2013, 11:58 PM (6,369 Views)
Hogleg
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Midnight Toker

It's a bit orange right now, because it hasn't eaten after midnight yet. I would consider trying to rush and get everything done before geopalooza, but I think the paint is going to have to wait till after, so it won't look like much of a gremlin till then. You'll just have to take my word for it.

The car has 122,000mi. The engine has 22k and was replaced at 100,004mi in 2008. The car is originally from South Carolina (the frame horns are impeccable). Brought to Pennsylvania in 2008, it's had a new top, carpet, engine and tranny installed around 100k/mi. In early May of 2013 it was traded for a 1999 cadillac seville the owner was tired of dumping $$$ into. So to OHIO it came, where it's getting some much needed attention....

The list of parts is huge. The parts I installed : NGK IX 3903's, 7.5mm Si mag core wireset, SRD single underdrive pulley, SRD bolt on header, flowmonster cat, K&N filter, synchromesh fluid, old school Boston Acoustics RC41 components w/Scosche Bluetooth headset.. Then we have the parts I'm currently installing : 3Tech 222/365 & +10 sprocket, M.A.C's front and rear strut bars, Raybestos professional control arms, energy ball joint boots, KYB front and rear shocks, struts, bellows, and mounts, moog inner and outer tie rods, CS130 alt & hardware, SureTrack half shafts, Goodyear belts and hoses, POR-15.


The time has come for work to be done. Taking it slow. Waiting on the POR-15 to dry so I can mount my control arms tomorrow..along with some other bolt on goodies!


Enough blabbering. Here's some pics

Lets call this a before picture.
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Body shot
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Rocker/undercarriage shot soon to be black with POR-15
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PO's craigslist shot
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Do you see what I see?
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That's right! Full race header!
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Here's the wireset I used
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Header and new wireset
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This Geo Glenn approved gasket is holing up quite nicely.
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Flowmonster converter
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New and relocated O2 sensor
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Old ball joint YUCK!!!
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EWWW
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Old Vs New
Old OEM control arms with gritty ball joints, and disintegrated boots.
Vs
Lifetime Raybestos professional control arms with polyurethane energy ball joint boots, and zerk fittings!

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Wrinkle paint finish
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Underneath all that sexy green paint is a new set of KYB GR2's (you can see my gatorbacks in the background)
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My 181 gram SRD underdrive pulley
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My old 1568.8 gram pulley
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New one will go here somewhere lol
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Old cam (I'll just hold on to that!)
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This is where the lifters then 222/365 cam goes.
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Phresh POR-15 after a quick wire brush where the control arm bushing goes!
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I'll brush some more POR-15 here..
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Here on the frame horns too!
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Can't forget the other side!
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So far I have the control arms and cv axles out. Waiting on new axle seals that should be in tomorrow along with my cam seal. The POR-15 should be dry by then. After those are done, we're doing struts, along with some more POR-15. Then on to the rear.

Stay tuned...
Edited by Hogleg, Apr 12 2015, 02:19 AM.
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t3ragtop
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

por15 is a good coating for the exterior of the frame horns but because the seams of the 2 piece clamshell construction aren't fully welded, there's no way to prevent water (and ohio's road salt in solution) from getting inside the frame horns.

also, as the temperature swings through the vapor pressure point, condensation forms on the insides of all the floor channels, frame horns, and rocker tubes. that condensation (like the condensation on the outside of a cold beer can on a hot day) actually rusts a metro from the inside out.

i have found that eastwood company's internal frame spray, a zinc rich phenolic based coating, seals the steel surfaces on the insides of basically unreachable chassis areas and keeps them from forming rust.

i use the application tubing to spray every internal void i can find - lower radiator support, front chassis rails, frame horns, floor channels, rocker panels, front inner fenders, and up behind the toe boards on the front of the floor. i also shoot some along the bottom edges of the door skins from the inside where the rust proofing wicks into the seams.

3 cans of the eastwood internal frame spray does most of the bad places. i've applied 5 cans total so far to remediate rust on my red vert project.

i also like the eastwood company's rust encapsulator. i use it pretty much as a black primer on everything from the steering knuckles and suspension parts to anything on the chassis. it does about the same thing as por15 but also includes a rust converter which chemically changes iron oxide to a zinc oxide which effectively prevents air and moisture from causing further oxidation of the steel parts. it also takes a top coat of paint in your color choice better than por15.

you have to work pretty hard to keep a car from rusting out in ohio, brother. :D
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snowfish
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Basic GearHead

Looks like a Great Project! :rocker And :+1 on everything T3RagTop said. :thumb

When I read this.............
Quote:
 
Do you see what I see?

I saw this! :smackface

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Those motor mount bolts are going to be a treat to fix! :'(

Check out here
http://geometroforum.com/topic/4941591/7/
for the fix. :gamerz Been there, done that. ;)
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Hogleg
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Midnight Toker

T3, I must have been reading your mind!
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Good to know I need 2 more cans. Only picked up one to give it a try.
I get mine from the eastwood company on ebay 16$ a can I think. Where do you purchase yours?


Thanks snowfish! Loving gmf! Without this site, most of the upgrades would just be fixes, and I wouldn't have all the cool parts to install.

If you mean the two holes close together here, they look unused. I suppose I should throw a few bolts in there tho.
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Edited by Hogleg, Jun 29 2013, 01:48 PM.
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snowfish
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Basic GearHead

Quote:
 

If you mean the two holes close together here, they look unused.

:banana At first glance, they looked like busted motor mounts. :die I see the mounts now. :news Good to go. :thumb

I get my Eastwoods stuff from Jeggs.

Great looking ride. :cheers
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Hogleg
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Midnight Toker

Did a little more work today. Not nearly as much as I wanted because of the rain... My lack of planning when home buying left me without a garage :( I'm building one next year.

Here's a few nice pics of new parts.
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A shot of the energy ball joint boots
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Control arm mount POR-15 protected
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Old axle seals
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Old seals with new part numbers
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New 3Tech cam installed...waiting on my +10 sprocket. Should be in the mail.
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New camshaft seal on my new 222/365 3Tech cam.
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Here's some old nasty parts
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This ones not too bad. Probably replaced 10 years ago.
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This one looks original. Boots cracked but not broken. Hogleg doesn't f*ck around. Change em both!
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Was planning on getting the struts out and be able to swap the springs out tonight, but the knuckle bolts are locked in there good. Broke one bolt off the driver side. I got the nuts off the passenger side but the bolts are really frozen in there. Gonna need some heat I suppose. Buying a torch tonight for 75$ off a buddy. Need it for one of my spinning rear lugs anyway.

Lesson learned for today is... don't replace cv joints and cam at the same time while the car is in gear. I turned the hub and moved the crank. I'm pretty sure I'm going to have extra work making sure my timing is good.
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t3ragtop
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

i order my internal frame spray and rust encapsulator from ebay, 3 cans of internal frame spray and 4 cans of rust encapsultor at a time, from the specials on the eastwood company ebay listings. i save a little money on them that way. $15.99 each shipped for the frame spray and $14.99 each shipped for the rust encapsulator.

i also buy the rust encapsulator in quarts for the floor for $46 shipped.

i'll look forward to seeing the vert at geopalooza. :D
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Hogleg
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Midnight Toker

Thanks T3! Your vert is the one to look(gawk) at at geopalooza. Now that's one sweet ride!

Got some more work done today, again not as much as planned, but it's all downhill from here!


The strut bolts on both sides were locked in so tight I didn't need to wrench the other side while torquing the nuts off probably around 200flbs. With the nuts off I tried pounding them out with a hammer but they wouldn't budge.
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The solution was a 30 minute trip to my friends house to buy an acetylene torch for 75$... BEST 75& I ever spent.
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After I applied a little heat, I was able to turn the bolts and break them free, then they hammered out with ease!
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With both bolts out on each side the struts came out nicely.
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Good thing I remembered to support the hub assembly
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Another strutless shot.
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I thought this looked exceptionally solid and clean but with nothing to compare it too I'm not sure.
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The other side as well.
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While I had the valve cover off I figured what the hell.
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Tomorrow I might get the POR-15 out and get a few coats down, then install the new struts Tuesday or Wednesday then test drive after i get my cam gear installed. My goal is to have it on the road by August 10th so I'm pretty confident I'll be driving and not towing the orange(for now) gremlin to geopalooza.
Edited by Hogleg, Jun 30 2013, 10:14 PM.
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t3ragtop
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

from your pics, that car is very clean by ohio standards.

i'd be flooding the void under the toe board at the bottom of the dash with internal frame spray right now. there's rust brewing in the bottoms of the door posts. all it would take is a few good thunder showers, a leaky top, and you might start popping holes under the factory seam sealer.

that's a great deal on an oxy-acetylene set. i use a propane torch and the one i've had for 30 years died on me today. i had to buy a $35 piece o' crap just to get on with my work removing the front control arms. something that will work faster for heat plus have the facility to use the torch to cut steel for $75 is a super deal.
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calrenman
Just another wrench.

I do the freaky paint too. I have to post pics! It looks nice.
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McZukee
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Protagonist

Looks great... you're doing everything that I'm trying to find the time to do.
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Hogleg
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Midnight Toker

@T3 I used to use a torch everyday to fuse lead and build up castings for machining. I used to fuse them right on the machine until OSHA walked in one day... Then it was the lead depts job. Never used one to remove stuck bolts before. NO penetrant compares. I just had to make sure I had a good heat shield for all my new parts... Used a nice flat slate rock.

@calrenman I usually just throw the parts on with a little grease, this time I was very patient, so I figured I'd make the car look good as well.

@mcsuzuki I have been waiting for 2 months to get started. What really helps is the 2 other available vehicles we have to drive. That was key to the patience required to get everything painted and ready. Another key factor is the lack of deadline. I literally have till August 10th, and should be done in a few days.

Very rainy day today in Akron. Was able to get a few hours of work in today. I degreased and wire brushed the strut wells but was unable to get the POR-15 out. It's like superglue in the way it hardens with water, and I could see the rain coming. So I decided to checked the mail, and there was my 3tech +10 cam sproket, so I immediately ran inside to get my new gator back timing belt, valve cover gasket, and got to work.
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I had messed up the day before and turned the crank, lining the marks up wasn't too difficult, after putting the belt on and off 3 or 4 times I'm pretty sure I had it, so I slapped the valve cover on and tightened the tensioner and fired it up.
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Took a couple cranks but it finally came to life. Had a horrible lifter tick for a minute. I wasn't expecting that since I had removed them and stored them in oil while the cam was out.

Next on the list is this cs130 alternator upgrade...
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Just waiting on the bracket and adapter plug. Should be in the mail....
Edited by Hogleg, Jul 1 2013, 08:22 PM.
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Hogleg
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Midnight Toker

Today I got the struts assembled. Wire brushed all the washers real clean, packed the bearing real good, Coated the spring with rust encapsulator. I may wire loom the spring for color at a later date instead of paint.

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And 2 coats of POR-15 applied to the inner strut towers, wheel wells, and knuckle after a wire brush and degrease.

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I'll make a run to Henry beirce for my stainless hardware, and put the struts on. That leaves only the tie rods to do before breaking out the torque wrench and cranking it all down to factory specs.

Then perhaps a quick test drive, & on to the rear!
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calrenman
Just another wrench.

Hogleg
Jul 2 2013, 10:13 PM
Today I got the struts assembled. Wire brushed all the washers real clean, packed the bearing real good, Coated the spring with rust encapsulator. I may wire loom the spring for color at a later date instead of paint.

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And 2 coats of POR-15 applied to the inner strut towers, wheel wells, and knuckle after a wire brush and degrease.

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I'll make a run to Henry beirce for my stainless hardware, and put the struts on. That leaves only the tie rods to do before breaking out the torque wrench and cranking it all down to factory specs.

Then perhaps a quick test drive, & on to the rear!
That Looks Awesomer! I was reading about internal frame coat encapsulator and POR-15?
How did you apply them. Could I ask for details on usage and part numbers? I have a little rust in my tire bay from PO letting rear seal leak for years. Is the POR-15 also an encapsulator?
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Hogleg
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Midnight Toker

I brush on the por-15. It levels itself so there's no brush strokes. It's 40$ a quart on eBay from the eastwood company. It spreads real nice. 1 quart is almost enough to do an entire metro undercarriage. Por-15 is really supposed to go over rust. It binds with it and creates a super hard nonporous coating. Unlike paint, it gets stronger when exposed to water. No water no rust. I use por-15 on anything that looks rusty, chassis coat on anything completely rust free that I want to paint. Chassis coat is like por 15 but binds better to non rusty surfaces. Internal frame coating is a zinc spray that comes in a can and a long flexible tube. You feed the tube into the frame holes as far as you can, then spray while slowly removing the tube.
Encapsulator is different. You apply it to rust only, it neutralizes and soaks into the rust real good to stop it from growing. Haven't had to use it in the body yet. I've been lucky and able to wire brush any off and por-15 it. All eastwood company stuff is good stuff (and pricey. You get what you pay for). Check out their website. All the info about everything they make is on there. They have many many more products for coating and rust protection than I can count. Made in the USA too! Can't beat it.

Por-15 needs top coated if its going to be exposed to the sunlight or it will discolor or cloud. Even clear will do.
Chassis coat is uv safe for outdoors.
They both dry very hard and nonporous.
Por-15 comes in black gloss, black satin, gray, and clear.

HERE are a FEW LINKS to get you started
Edited by Hogleg, Jul 3 2013, 04:39 AM.
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Woodie
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Hogleg
Jul 2 2013, 10:13 PM
That leaves only the tie rods to do before breaking out the torque wrench and cranking it all down to factory specs.
Put the weight back on the suspension before torquing everything down.


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calrenman
Just another wrench.

Hogleg
Jul 3 2013, 03:57 AM
I brush on the por-15. It levels itself so there's no brush strokes. It's 40$ a quart on eBay from the eastwood company. It spreads real nice. 1 quart is almost enough to do an entire metro undercarriage. Por-15 is really supposed to go over rust. It binds with it and creates a super hard nonporous coating. Unlike paint, it gets stronger when exposed to water. No water no rust. I use por-15 on anything that looks rusty, chassis coat on anything completely rust free that I want to paint. Chassis coat is like por 15 but binds better to non rusty surfaces. Internal frame coating is a zinc spray that comes in a can and a long flexible tube. You feed the tube into the frame holes as far as you can, then spray while slowly removing the tube.
Encapsulator is different. You apply it to rust only, it neutralizes and soaks into the rust real good to stop it from growing. Haven't had to use it in the body yet. I've been lucky and able to wire brush any off and por-15 it. All eastwood company stuff is good stuff (and pricey. You get what you pay for). Check out their website. All the info about everything they make is on there. They have many many more products for coating and rust protection than I can count. Made in the USA too! Can't beat it.

Por-15 needs top coated if its going to be exposed to the sunlight or it will discolor or cloud. Even clear will do.
Chassis coat is uv safe for outdoors.
They both dry very hard and nonporous.
Por-15 comes in black gloss, black satin, gray, and clear.

HERE are a FEW LINKS to get you started
Thank you for that info Hogleg. I think this is well worth the trouble even here in California!
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Hogleg
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Midnight Toker

Been BLAZING HOT in Ohio this week, but T3 kicked me in the ass yesterday and I got a little work done today.

I removed the old alternator. It looks good I might sell it or bring it to geopalooza. I should have a trunk full of worthless parts to give away as well. I am going to attempt to preserve the alternator splash guard in some way. It covers the CS130 pretty well just hanging there by the top bolt.


Here you also see the original crank pulley back on. The SRD one doesn't have timing marks. It will soon... Figured I'd take care of that while I was going back in.

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Yes, I painted it and sprayed a few nice coats of clear all over it. It's got a lot of red on it so +5hp for sure!

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Still need a bolt and nut for the top of the alternator, but everything is lining up!


Getting a roll of 4ga copper wire and 100 amp fuse link, along with copper lugs, and shrink tubing and some convoluted wire loom.
From what I understand, you use the cars original alternator cable, and add an additional 4ga from the alt to the +on the battery.


Under the hood is starting to come together...

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Hogleg
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Midnight Toker

I got the struts and everything assembled a few weeks ago, and forgot to take pics. Had the tire off today so I could fix my timing belt cover and put my under drive pulley back on, so I took a few installed pics. I might do the tie rods while I got the jack and stuff out.

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Today, we played a little dress up with some wire loom I picked up while I was at summit racing today.

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Here's my new battery terminals with upgraded 4ga and CS130 alternator wiring.

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Speaking of a CS130 alternator...

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The belt I bought is the only size smaller I could find, and it's too tight. The alt cooling fan lightly rubs the water pump pulley because the alternator is fully adjusted forward. The stock size belt (815mm) is too long by about a half inch. None of the parts stores in my area sell a 800mm belt, so I was thinking of elongating the groove on the alternator bracket so I can use a stock belt.
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calrenman
Just another wrench.

Hogleg
Jul 24 2013, 09:31 PM
I got the struts and everything assembled a few weeks ago, and forgot to take pics. Had the tire off today so I could fix my timing belt cover and put my under drive pulley back on, so I took a few installed pics. I might do the tie rods while I got the jack and stuff out.

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Today, we played a little dress up with some wire loom I picked up while I was at summit racing today.

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Here's my new battery terminals with upgraded 4ga and CS130 alternator wiring.

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Speaking of a CS130 alternator...

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The belt I bought is the only size smaller I could find, and it's too tight. The alt cooling fan lightly rubs the water pump pulley because the alternator is fully adjusted forward. The stock size belt (815mm) is too long by about a half inch. None of the parts stores in my area sell a 800mm belt, so I was thinking of elongating the groove on the alternator bracket so I can use a stock belt.


That is a total freak show! Nice!

Just a note: The small hose with the rusted clamp off of the inlet pipe to the water pump looks like it is swollen and ready to fail.
Edited by calrenman, Jul 26 2013, 03:30 AM.
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Hogleg
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Midnight Toker

Thanks man! Checked out your stuff too. That schit is sick! :rocker

I should have it on the road Saturday. Front is done and feels good, rear is taken apart and getting a POR-15 treatment tomorrow before throwing the struts and stuff on Saturday.
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t3ragtop
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

on the road by saturday, eh?

i'm jealous. :P

on your cs130, i used a shorter bolt on the top ear with a split washer as a lock and a big flat washer from the opposite side from what you did. the bolt threads right into the ear on the alternator. that way i don't have to piss with a nut.
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Hogleg
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Midnight Toker

The ear on the one I have isn't threaded. I thought it would be from pics I've seen of yours and others. I elongated the slot on the adjuster and was able to use the stock belt with the under drive pulley. Seems to work good, but the belt is a little soft. I may have to open it up another 1/8" for future adjustment.

I'll take that! Probably the last time you will be of mine.
Yours isn't even done and I'm jealous of that twincam!. Every vert owner (and audiophile) will be jealous when your done! :drool

Mine is far from done, but done enough for now till geopalooza.

Just finished brushing POR-15 everywhere I could back there.

The weather has been quite nice around here the last week, I'm glad because I hate wiping sweat off my face with greasy hands and rags.
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calrenman
Just another wrench.

Hogleg
Jul 26 2013, 05:32 PM
The ear on the one I have isn't threaded. I thought it would be from pics I've seen of yours and others. I elongated the slot on the adjuster and was able to use the stock belt with the under drive pulley. Seems to work good, but the belt is a little soft. I may have to open it up another 1/8" for future adjustment.

I'll take that! Probably the last time you will be of mine.
Yours isn't even done and I'm jealous of that twincam!. Every vert owner (and audiophile) will be jealous when your done! :drool

Mine is far from done, but done enough for now till geopalooza.

Just finished brushing POR-15 everywhere I could back there.

The weather has been quite nice around here the last week, I'm glad because I hate wiping sweat off my face with greasy hands and rags.
Greasy wipe off is the girlfriends EEEEWWWWWWW!
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calrenman
Just another wrench.

I really want to know how that alternator is working. I would like to do one but I think my OBD II computer would freak! It is a per snicity biotch! Any one with info I am all ears. Q. I drive normally with my G10. I think an under drive pulley is for high reves. Am I correct?
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calrenman
Just another wrench.

I am going to put heat shrink tubing on my springs! Cheap and cheery!
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t3ragtop
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

calrenman, your obdII controls cannot be more persnickity than my megasquirt controls and it loves the cs130 mod.

the ecu has zero control of the charging system. what it doesn't like is low voltage and electrical noise. the cs130 mod provides a very clean and stable power supply.

even if you don't have a high power stereo or a bunch of additional lighting, if you total the current demands of the normal accessories on your car, when you run the heater blower, windshield wipers, lights, etc. combined with the current demands of the stuff that makes the engine run you will see that you have exceeded the current capabilities of the 55 amp alternator and that you are at a charge deficit and are drawing more energy from the battery than can be supplied by the 55 amp alternator.

if anything, it's even more important to have the cs130 mod on an obdII equipped later model metro to ensure proper ecu operation.
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Hogleg
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Midnight Toker

Stopped at the hardware store for some stainless fasteners for the pulleys, timing belt cover, and alternator. Took my bag of bolts, and walked out -27$. Not too bad I guess. I needed them for my underdrive pulley anyway. They don't mention the stock bolt heads are too big.

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I was trying to find a way to use a stock belt with the underdrive pulley and CS130 alternator, so I took the stock tensioner bracket, and my oxy/acetylene torch, and cut the groove about 3/8-1/2" longer. Now the stock belt works good. I may have to remove an additional 1/8" for future adjustment. The belt doesn't squeal but it is soft. Should be good for the bearings though.

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Got around to do the rear shocks as well. I had a frozen lug nut on the drivers side. I put too much torque to it and spun the bolt. I was gonna heat it up and cut it off, but after looking at it I decided I could do the shock with the tire on. Was a little more difficult because of the extra weight on the knuckle, but wasn't bad at all. The pinch bolts were a bit rusted, but came out without heat or lube.

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Here's a few shots of the rear shock wells after degrease and prep & before a POR-15 treatment.

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And after POR-15 I used additional internal rust coating to make sure I got all the nooks and crannies.

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The POR-15 is so tough it sealed the lid on the can. So tight it peeled the metal can when I pried on the lid. I had to put a hole in the can with a screwdriver to get into it. With no more sealing of the can, I had some fun with it. Man this stuff is nice! The finished surface feels like glass.

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I'm glad I got new mounts with my new shocks.

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Here's a bunch more paint no one will ever see.

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Will have to cut a little plastic before I can put in the rear shock brace. That drab green is internal frame overspray. Shouldn't hurt anything.

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Looking good!

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My old rear shocks were completely shot. The car literally bounced like a basketball. It honestly felt unsafe to drive. Now it doesn't even bounce once! Test drive was like driving a brand new car.
Edited by Hogleg, Jul 27 2013, 09:23 PM.
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PTA2PTB
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I'm totally awesome! I swear.

Hogleg
Jul 27 2013, 09:19 PM
My old rear shocks were completely shot. The car literally bounced like a basketball. It honestly felt unsafe to drive. Now it doesn't even bounce once! Test drive was like driving a brand new car.
And just wait til you get swaybars on it!

Installing the new set of KYB's, on my car, certainly helped curb the double-dribble, but it wasn't til I got the swaybars on it, that the smile stopped running away from my face every time I went to take a turn or curve at speed, or ran into a rough patch of road.
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Hogleg
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Midnight Toker

Yea, I still notice a lot of roll when cornering, and I plan on having a set to install after geopalooza. I can wait! I got it feeling safe to drive, and that's whats important. Still have a lot to do, but I think I'm done with all the major stuff till after geopalooza. I have big stereo plans, wheels, paint, side skirts, and I haven't even touched the interior yet.
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Old Man


you need to get some red and some white flexible paint and paint your alternator belt barber pole. :lol
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calrenman
Just another wrench.

t3ragtop
Jul 27 2013, 09:21 AM
calrenman, your obdII controls cannot be more persnickity than my megasquirt controls and it loves the cs130 mod.

the ecu has zero control of the charging system. what it doesn't like is low voltage and electrical noise. the cs130 mod provides a very clean and stable power supply.

even if you don't have a high power stereo or a bunch of additional lighting, if you total the current demands of the normal accessories on your car, when you run the heater blower, windshield wipers, lights, etc. combined with the current demands of the stuff that makes the engine run you will see that you have exceeded the current capabilities of the 55 amp alternator and that you are at a charge deficit and are drawing more energy from the battery than can be supplied by the 55 amp alternator.

if anything, it's even more important to have the cs130 mod on an obdII equipped later model metro to ensure proper ecu operation.
T3, You are saying that the OBDII Has nothing to do with charging? What are the particulars with this mod? I like big alternators with fans. If I use stock pullies can I still use my brand new belt with the alternator?? Where is the install link with parts and Links? I cannot remember where I saw it.
Thanks.
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t3ragtop
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

i'm not sure about the belt question as i have always used a 25% underdrive pulley with my cs130 mods and that takes the shorter belt.

i have the links for the bracket and the alternator specs in the last video in the sequence on my youtube channel. i have a little bit of info and the youtube video in my blue monster thread in the project forum section.
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Hogleg
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Midnight Toker

I did try to use the shorter belt, but it was so tight, 760mm I believe. It caused the alt fan was gently rubbing the water pump pulley. A 780 or 800 mm belt would be perfect, but they are hard to find and expensive, and aren't available in 3 rib at the autozone or orileys.

There are a few different styles of cs130 alternators. T3 has all the good info on his build page.
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calrenman
Just another wrench.

Hogleg
Jul 27 2013, 09:19 PM
Stopped at the hardware store for some stainless fasteners for the pulleys, timing belt cover, and alternator. Took my bag of bolts, and walked out -27$. Not too bad I guess. I needed them for my underdrive pulley anyway. They don't mention the stock bolt heads are too big.

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I was trying to find a way to use a stock belt with the underdrive pulley and CS130 alternator, so I took the stock tensioner bracket, and my oxy/acetylene torch, and cut the groove about 3/8-1/2" longer. Now the stock belt works good. I may have to remove an additional 1/8" for future adjustment. The belt doesn't squeal but it is soft. Should be good for the bearings though.

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Got around to do the rear shocks as well. I had a frozen lug nut on the drivers side. I put too much torque to it and spun the bolt. I was gonna heat it up and cut it off, but after looking at it I decided I could do the shock with the tire on. Was a little more difficult because of the extra weight on the knuckle, but wasn't bad at all. The pinch bolts were a bit rusted, but came out without heat or lube.

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Here's a few shots of the rear shock wells after degrease and prep & before a POR-15 treatment.

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And after POR-15 I used additional internal rust coating to make sure I got all the nooks and crannies.

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The POR-15 is so tough it sealed the lid on the can. So tight it peeled the metal can when I pried on the lid. I had to put a hole in the can with a screwdriver to get into it. With no more sealing of the can, I had some fun with it. Man this stuff is nice! The finished surface feels like glass.

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I'm glad I got new mounts with my new shocks.

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Here's a bunch more paint no one will ever see.

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Will have to cut a little plastic before I can put in the rear shock brace. That drab green is internal frame overspray. Shouldn't hurt anything.

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Looking good!

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My old rear shocks were completely shot. The car literally bounced like a basketball. It honestly felt unsafe to drive. Now it doesn't even bounce once! Test drive was like driving a brand new car.
I replaced mounts and shocks as a unit (kybs) and I am waiting on my front brace. I also put in those rubber coil spring spacers to firm up the ride and go more rally. It worked and my ride is form now I just cannot wait for the brace. Looking good!
Edited by calrenman, Aug 6 2013, 07:19 AM.
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Hogleg
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Midnight Toker

Picked up some sway bars from T3, and got a bonus LeBra hood cover!

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Picked up these sweet Swift GT tail lights from HotRodRay. Couldn't wait to put them on, so went to GeoPet, and charlesufarley's camp site after Geopalooza, and we threw them in.

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Also picked up these Swift GT seats along with GT knuckles from zooke581.

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Coming together. Lots more to come.
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zooke581


Those look good in there. Saw you had them in for Geopalooza. Must have been comfortable. They look it.
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Hogleg
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Midnight Toker

zooke581
Aug 13 2013, 09:12 PM
Those look good in there. Saw you had them in for Geopalooza. Must have been comfortable. They look it.
Much much more comfortable. They sit an inch or two higher even with the vert rails, and lean a bit away from each other. A few washers should correct the lean.
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McZukee
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Protagonist

Seats look great!

I've got the exact same set, but my car was originally blue so the red is out of place... I'm still pondering reupholstery possibilities but I'll probably install them as is, for now for financial reasons.

And, that stick shift looks like it was designed for the ladies. :D
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zooke581


That's good. I am using Kia Rio seats and really like the fit for me. 6'2" and 205 lbs. Just right. The latest Rio seat I am putting in Mom's Geo have adjustable lumbar as well as two adjustable lower seat.
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geo pet
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" my strange addiction "

coming along nicely my friend B-) enjoyed meeting you and the mrs. hope you come back next year . :cheers :stoner
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Hogleg
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Midnight Toker

Thanks Mc!
I was thinking about taking the covers off and dying them black, but they still have a bit of life in them. I'm about 6' 225lb and I can easily steer with my thighs now since the seats are a little taller. Another inch and I would be finding a way to tilt my wheel. It's not my daily driver so they are very comfortable and have a lot more cushion vs the stock ones. Made my old ones feel like sitting on a stack of newspaper.

The shifter was a purchase from geo Glenn. It does look eerily like an adult toy of the common type. I'm a funny guy (haha funny) & I still laugh when I see it. It's not my favorite, but it will work until I can build something better. I couldn't pass up a suzuki GT part for my car for 10$.

I didn't realize the event was so short. Thanks geopet for helping extend the mission a little longer. Even though we only live 1.5hours away, we will be camping there next year. We all should organize a campsite buy in sometime so we can get our sites in the same area.
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calrenman
Just another wrench.

I like the seats! Nice.
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calrenman
Just another wrench.

zooke581
Aug 13 2013, 09:44 PM
That's good. I am using Kia Rio seats and really like the fit for me. 6'2" and 205 lbs. Just right. The latest Rio seat I am putting in Mom's Geo have adjustable lumbar as well as two adjustable lower seat.
Hello Zookie

Are those Rio seats close to a direct fit? I have a 3/5 hatchback and need some seats. Mine are dead!
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zooke581


calrenman
Aug 15 2013, 04:58 AM
zooke581
Aug 13 2013, 09:44 PM
That's good. I am using Kia Rio seats and really like the fit for me. 6'2" and 205 lbs. Just right. The latest Rio seat I am putting in Mom's Geo have adjustable lumbar as well as two adjustable lower seat.
Hello Zookie

Are those Rio seats close to a direct fit? I have a 3/5 hatchback and need some seats. Mine are dead!
Not to hijack thread but on the Rip seats bend the front tabs down and the front and left rear points bolt up. Right resr will need to be modified.
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calrenman
Just another wrench.

Hogleg, any recent Mods? I like the work you did.
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Hogleg
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Midnight Toker

No mods, but I did buy an excellent pair of wiper/headlight switches, which make the interior look nice. Been sitting for a while. I've barely put 300 miles on it last year. I did get it into a music video that will be coming out soon. Here is a link to the teaser http://youtu.be/eyXvbydQKs8 . I will also be putting it up for sale locally once the video comes out. I haven't done much to it since my last post well over a year ago. I have a larger family and there isn't much opportunity to take it when we go out. So I'll be looking to trade for a 4cy sedan, or cash. The price for these things is all over from 3-6k (the one I saw for 6k was mint). So I'm wondering what you guys think would be a good trade or price. I haven't put on the side skirts, gt hubs, or sway bars, but I have them and might consider selling separately if whoever buys the car doesn't pay extra for them.

Also, since I have the cam, and xfi tranny, the car doesn't have the low end power to cruise in 5th till it's doing 60-65 because the rpms are so low. I'm thinking there may be someone here that wants the car just so they can swap the tranny to make their every day driver more fuel efficient, then put the peppier tranny in the vert where it belongs.
Edited by Hogleg, Apr 12 2015, 02:25 AM.
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Miser
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Does it have a/c?
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Hogleg
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Midnight Toker

No ac from factory.
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