Welcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are features you can't use and images you can't see. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free. If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features: Join our community! |
| '99 3cyl transplant in tractor - need wiring info | |
|---|---|
| Tweet Topic Started: Sep 9 2013, 09:47 AM (3,081 Views) | |
| kthelen | Sep 9 2013, 09:47 AM Post #1 |
|
New Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Hello all! I have a big commercial lawn mower. It originally came with a 3-cylinder Kubota diesel that made around 22hp. It was tired when I got it a year ago, and now is finally ready to give up. Since no reasonably priced replacements were available, I hit the junkyard and grabbed the next best thing: a 3-cylinder gasser from a '99 Metro ![]() My main struggle is with the wiring. I grabbed the engine harness, ECM, and the left harness with fuse box (for lack of better description). The goal is to make the fuel injection system work using a minimum amount of the factory wiring. I'm not a total noob when it comes to projects like this (have done similar things with '90s GM V6es and V8s). But I have no documentation for this one, and - since I'd assume there's some knowledge out there - I would prefer not to have to reinvent the wheel. Anyone with any info to contribute, please share! --Keith |
![]() |
|
| Mythstae | Sep 9 2013, 09:54 AM Post #2 |
![]()
|
I don't know if you'll find any relevant information in this thread, but another member, Spookum, put a G10 in his Argo... http://www.geometroforum.com/topic/5141459/ |
![]() |
|
| MR Bill | Sep 9 2013, 01:31 PM Post #3 |
![]()
|
This is FSM is for a 97, somebody may have a 99 I don't know. http://geometroforum.com/topic/5078021/1/#new |
![]() |
|
| kthelen | Sep 10 2013, 07:10 PM Post #4 |
|
New Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Seems the normal thing for most people to do in this scenario is just to take *everything* from the donor car. From ATVs to airplanes, every other thread I've Googled assumes you're keeping all the harnesses intact. But I really don't want overkill, just the basics. So I spent some time with the wiring diagrams. The goal is to keep the engine harness as-is, and pare the bulkhead and body harnesses down to the bare minimum. EDIT: for those of you reading this after the fact, I was not able to get the engine running using this list. Couldn't determine if the fault was with my connections or the parts I was using - better safe than sorry. Read on for possible alternate solution...
Anyone see anything here that's clearly wrong? I'm planning on giving the above list another once-over, then starting in on the real thing... Edited by kthelen, Sep 14 2013, 07:08 PM.
|
![]() |
|
| GeoZone | Sep 10 2013, 10:58 PM Post #5 |
![]()
|
OK, so you have to post a pic of the tractor, preferably with some chickens and what not.
|
![]() |
|
| kthelen | Sep 11 2013, 10:33 AM Post #6 |
|
New Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Just edited my list above to reflect the latest modifications. Still haven't started in on the actual harness, so there's still time to weigh in. No farm animals around here - it's not that kind of tractor (though I do have a couple of Farmalls for general maintenance and snow removal as well). This is the grass cutting machine. 6' deck, hydro everything, leather bucket seat from a Silhouette van (and a throwaway Grant wheel from a Camaro, because the original was falling apart, and because RACE MOWER! haha). When you've got 6 acres of grass to cut 1-2 times a week, it's the tool for the job. Only chickens around here are the ones telling me I shouldn't be hacking on this harness ![]()
Edited by kthelen, Sep 11 2013, 10:35 AM.
|
![]() |
|
| kthelen | Sep 11 2013, 05:54 PM Post #7 |
|
New Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Another edit to the list above. Turns out some of the wires weren't actually located where the schematic said they'd be; the list now reflects their true locations. Having narrowed down what was needed, I took the car side of the bulkhead connectors and began playing dentist - extracting each wire and its pin so that no trace of the "extra" wires would remain. When I was done, the large connector had nine of its sixteen wires/pins intact, while the small one had just three. Now I just need to finish the starter plate, hook everything up, and it should be ready for a test fire. If it runs, then the real fun - mounting it in the mower - will begin. Edited by kthelen, Sep 11 2013, 09:25 PM.
|
![]() |
|
| kthelen | Sep 11 2013, 09:40 PM Post #8 |
|
New Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Finished the starter plate, made various adjustments, got it cranking. One more step done. Then I wired it up per my list above. One problem became immediately apparent: the ECM was providing constant 5VDC on the orange wire (which should be the ignition trigger), which means that I have never-ending spark whenever the key is on. I assume normal behavior would involve no voltage on this wire with the key on and engine not running/cranking, and that you'd see 5VDC pulses when the engine was turning. Right??? I have absolutely no idea where I've gone wrong. Then again, I never heard the motor run, so maybe something was toast prior to my buying it. Or, worse, something that was good before is toast now. Stumbling in the dark is no fun. Does anyone have a ECM diagnosis chart (such as this one, which is for older models) that would apply to the newer OBDII cars? Edited by kthelen, Sep 11 2013, 10:00 PM.
|
![]() |
|
| GeoZone | Sep 11 2013, 11:28 PM Post #9 |
![]()
|
Geez that's a beastie! Maybe you oughta just get a couple of goats to handle that grass instead of wasting it and the time to cut it! I had a patch the size of a ping pong table once and said never again. |
![]() |
|
| kthelen | Sep 12 2013, 10:42 AM Post #10 |
|
New Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Swapped in another ECM this morning. No change. Seeing 227 ohms across the terminals of my CMP. Both CMP wires make it back to the correct places on the ECM, no problems there. (If this were a CMP problem, then I'd expect to see NO spark, right?) I'm stumped. |
![]() |
|
| Mythstae | Sep 12 2013, 10:51 AM Post #11 |
![]()
|
I've got a 96 Factory Service Manual. WHAT kind of diagram do you want me to look up...?
|
![]() |
|
| kthelen | Sep 12 2013, 11:08 AM Post #12 |
|
New Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
I've seen charts for older models which showed you how to test the ECM. See the link above for an example. Basically in the format of "wire color, wire description, volts/ohms with key off, volts/ohms with key on" and so forth. Since this is the exact opposite of what most people complain of (no spark, not *too much* spark!) I'm not quite sure where to begin. Hopefully something like that will lead me closer to the problem? |
![]() |
|
| bansheetaz | Sep 12 2013, 11:20 AM Post #13 |
![]()
|
when your done, send some photos to farmshow.com. that magazine is full of stuff like this. |
![]() |
|
| Mythstae | Sep 12 2013, 11:46 AM Post #14 |
![]()
|
Ok, I've got pictures of all 3 PCM connectors... stand by for those... no voltages listed but at least it's got what wire is in what cavity, what color is it, what does it do... I'll see if I can find more...
|
![]() |
|
| Mythstae | Sep 12 2013, 11:51 AM Post #15 |
![]()
|
![]() ![]()
Edited by Mythstae, Sep 12 2013, 11:56 AM.
|
![]() |
|
| 1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous) | |
| Go to Next Page | |
| « Previous Topic · Engine Tech & Diagnostics · Next Topic » |


Welcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.


![]](http://z3.ifrm.com/static/1/pip_r.png)







OK, so you have to post a pic of the tractor, preferably with some chickens and what not.



2:15 PM Jul 11