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'99 3cyl transplant in tractor - need wiring info
Topic Started: Sep 9 2013, 09:47 AM (3,083 Views)
kthelen
New Member
[ *  * ]
Hello all!

I have a big commercial lawn mower. It originally came with a 3-cylinder Kubota diesel that made around 22hp. It was tired when I got it a year ago, and now is finally ready to give up. Since no reasonably priced replacements were available, I hit the junkyard and grabbed the next best thing: a 3-cylinder gasser from a '99 Metro :D

My main struggle is with the wiring. I grabbed the engine harness, ECM, and the left harness with fuse box (for lack of better description). The goal is to make the fuel injection system work using a minimum amount of the factory wiring.

I'm not a total noob when it comes to projects like this (have done similar things with '90s GM V6es and V8s). But I have no documentation for this one, and - since I'd assume there's some knowledge out there - I would prefer not to have to reinvent the wheel.

Anyone with any info to contribute, please share!


--Keith
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Mythstae
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I don't know if you'll find any relevant information in this thread, but another member, Spookum, put a G10 in his Argo...
http://www.geometroforum.com/topic/5141459/
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MR Bill
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This is FSM is for a 97, somebody may have a 99 I don't know.

http://geometroforum.com/topic/5078021/1/#new
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kthelen
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Seems the normal thing for most people to do in this scenario is just to take *everything* from the donor car. From ATVs to airplanes, every other thread I've Googled assumes you're keeping all the harnesses intact.

But I really don't want overkill, just the basics. So I spent some time with the wiring diagrams. The goal is to keep the engine harness as-is, and pare the bulkhead and body harnesses down to the bare minimum.


EDIT: for those of you reading this after the fact, I was not able to get the engine running using this list. Couldn't determine if the fault was with my connections or the parts I was using - better safe than sorry. Read on for possible alternate solution...

Code:
 
ECM - LARGE BULKHEAD CONNECTOR
------------------------------

Black/Blue Ground
Black/Red Ground
Black/Yellow Apply B+ when Cranking (tie w/ starter solenoid)
Blue Out to Radiator Fan Relay (provides ground)
Pink/White Out to Fuel Pump Relay (provides ground)
Orange Out to Igniter
Gray/Yellow Out to ISC Relay
Gray/Black Out to ISC Relay



ECM - SMALL BULKHEAD CONNECTOR
------------------------------

Black/White Apply B+ when Key On (tie w/ coil)
White Apply Constant B+ for Memory
Lt Green/Red In from MAP Sensor


ECM - DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR
--------------------------

Purple/Yellow Out to MIL ('Service Engine' light - provides ground)
Purple/White In/Out from DLC (serial line)



IGNITER
-------

Black Ground
Orange From ECM
Brown/White Out to Noise Suppression Filter



NOISE SUPPRESSION FILTER
------------------------

Black/Blue Ground
Black/White Apply B+ when Key On
Brown/White From Igniter / Out to Coil
Brown Out to Tachometer



COIL
----

Black/White Apply B+ when Key On
Brown/White From Noise Suppression Filter



MAP SENSOR
----------

Orange/Green Out to ECM
Green/Black Ground
Green From ISC (on throttle body)



ISC RELAY
---------

White/Blue Apply B+ when Key On
Gray/Yellow From ECM
Gray/Black From ECM
Gray Out to ISC (on throttle body)



FI RESISTOR
-----------

White/Blue Apply B+ when Key On
Yellow Out to Injector



INJECTOR
--------

Yellow From FI Resistor



DLC
---

Black Ground
Black/Blue Ground
White Apply B+ when Key On
Purple/White From ECM (serial line)



METERING
--------

OIL PRESSURE - Yellow/Black - sensor in block above oil filter is a switch, not a sender. Will provide ground when pressure is too low. Use to control a dummy light.

MIL - Purple/Yellow - OBDII malfunction indicator light. Provides ground when ECM sets codes, etc. Use to control a dummy light.

COOLANT TEMP - Yellow/White - sensor in head near distributor is a sender; range unknown. Will need to test in order to select a proper gauge.

TACHOMETER - Brown - connects to noise suppression filter



NOTES
-----

TANK PRESSURE SENSOR is not applicable to my setup, since the tank and pump I'll be using aren't even close to factory. Will have to watch for problems that may occur due to its absence.

SECOND OXYGEN SENSOR is absent, since there is currently no exhaust. I know it'll run without, but there will probably be ill effects (MIL constantly lit, at minimum). Don't really want to have to purchase and install one, but might want/need to - we'll see.



Anyone see anything here that's clearly wrong? I'm planning on giving the above list another once-over, then starting in on the real thing...
Edited by kthelen, Sep 14 2013, 07:08 PM.
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GeoZone
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:popcorn OK, so you have to post a pic of the tractor, preferably with some chickens and what not. ^o)
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kthelen
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Just edited my list above to reflect the latest modifications. Still haven't started in on the actual harness, so there's still time to weigh in.

No farm animals around here - it's not that kind of tractor (though I do have a couple of Farmalls for general maintenance and snow removal as well). This is the grass cutting machine. 6' deck, hydro everything, leather bucket seat from a Silhouette van (and a throwaway Grant wheel from a Camaro, because the original was falling apart, and because RACE MOWER! haha). When you've got 6 acres of grass to cut 1-2 times a week, it's the tool for the job.

Only chickens around here are the ones telling me I shouldn't be hacking on this harness :)

Posted Image
Edited by kthelen, Sep 11 2013, 10:35 AM.
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kthelen
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Another edit to the list above. Turns out some of the wires weren't actually located where the schematic said they'd be; the list now reflects their true locations.

Having narrowed down what was needed, I took the car side of the bulkhead connectors and began playing dentist - extracting each wire and its pin so that no trace of the "extra" wires would remain. When I was done, the large connector had nine of its sixteen wires/pins intact, while the small one had just three.

Now I just need to finish the starter plate, hook everything up, and it should be ready for a test fire. If it runs, then the real fun - mounting it in the mower - will begin.
Edited by kthelen, Sep 11 2013, 09:25 PM.
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kthelen
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Finished the starter plate, made various adjustments, got it cranking. One more step done.

Then I wired it up per my list above. One problem became immediately apparent: the ECM was providing constant 5VDC on the orange wire (which should be the ignition trigger), which means that I have never-ending spark whenever the key is on. I assume normal behavior would involve no voltage on this wire with the key on and engine not running/cranking, and that you'd see 5VDC pulses when the engine was turning. Right???

I have absolutely no idea where I've gone wrong. Then again, I never heard the motor run, so maybe something was toast prior to my buying it. Or, worse, something that was good before is toast now. Stumbling in the dark is no fun.

Does anyone have a ECM diagnosis chart (such as this one, which is for older models) that would apply to the newer OBDII cars?
Edited by kthelen, Sep 11 2013, 10:00 PM.
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GeoZone
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Geez that's a beastie! Maybe you oughta just get a couple of goats to handle that grass instead of wasting it and the time to cut it! I had a patch the size of a ping pong table once and said never again.
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kthelen
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Swapped in another ECM this morning. No change.

Seeing 227 ohms across the terminals of my CMP. Both CMP wires make it back to the correct places on the ECM, no problems there. (If this were a CMP problem, then I'd expect to see NO spark, right?)

I'm stumped.
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Mythstae
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I've got a 96 Factory Service Manual.
WHAT kind of diagram do you want me to look up...? :hmm
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kthelen
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Quote:
 
I've got a 96 Factory Service Manual.
WHAT kind of diagram do you want me to look up...? :hmm


I've seen charts for older models which showed you how to test the ECM. See the link above for an example. Basically in the format of "wire color, wire description, volts/ohms with key off, volts/ohms with key on" and so forth.

Since this is the exact opposite of what most people complain of (no spark, not *too much* spark!) I'm not quite sure where to begin. Hopefully something like that will lead me closer to the problem?
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bansheetaz


when your done, send some photos to farmshow.com. that magazine is full of stuff like this.
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Mythstae
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Ok, I've got pictures of all 3 PCM connectors... stand by for those... no voltages listed but at least it's got what wire is in what cavity, what color is it, what does it do... I'll see if I can find more... :coffee
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Mythstae
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Posted Image
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Edited by Mythstae, Sep 12 2013, 11:56 AM.
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