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| Street credibility; Built not bought | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Sep 24 2013, 06:37 PM (56,780 Views) | |
| ZXTjato | May 6 2014, 04:47 PM Post #661 |
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bass heads
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![]() So maybe this rag stuffed between the brace and exhaust will solve the rattle on heavy engine torque, I would let off the gas and the engine slows the car I would feel tis buzz in the floor, so I try this rag untill it A: burns up falls off B: maybe it's not rattling here C: find some one kind enough to help me move the exhaust a smidgen up. Edited by ZXTjato, May 6 2014, 04:48 PM.
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| banginmetro64 | May 6 2014, 05:07 PM Post #662 |
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thats screaming for a fire...did you at least put some gas on it before you tied it on?
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| ZXTjato | May 6 2014, 05:10 PM Post #663 |
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bass heads
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totally dude! Got the trans drippings oil all over it and it's oily ready for a blaze. And in other news a metro burns to the ground from a rag tied to the exhaust to stop a rattle....But as experimental purpose it DID stop the rattle so now I know the thing is to close to the brace and the exhaust must be tied up or something. |
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| banginmetro64 | May 6 2014, 05:44 PM Post #664 |
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thats good. would not figure the exhaust would move that much. wonder if mine will be the same when i get one? |
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| pvr007 | May 6 2014, 06:22 PM Post #665 |
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If engine is moving under torque its time for motor mounts, im about to all 3 of them tomorrow, only 60$ at rockauto. |
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| ZXTjato | May 6 2014, 06:55 PM Post #666 |
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bass heads
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Probably not, my exhaust is a bunch of random pices stuck together and an exhaust from a 91 metro from the junk yard. I don't have one of those Eco cat converter things either. My dad put the exhaust together best he could for not having any new pipes. Old rusty Utah pipes were removed and rust free Arizona pipes were welded in place. I been wanting to fix my exhaust for a long time since it has lots of weird bent parts and I don't think there is any thing left in the glass pack or muffler, since it is a stock exhaust system after all. I don't think you will have issues with fitting unless your exhaust has been modified like myne has. And as far as the engine moving about under negative load I probably do need new mounts but I will do the polyurithane window weld mod before I buy new ones. It only rattles when I let off the gas |
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| 68custom | May 6 2014, 07:06 PM Post #667 |
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depending on where it's at a muffler clamp and hanger and 3/8 nut and bolt and a big fender washer will fix that. |
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| pvr007 | May 6 2014, 08:29 PM Post #668 |
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Reason I did not go for the window weld trick is that the vibrations would increase and I am not performance orientated. Plus its like 30$ for the window weld, I thought for another 30 I can get all the motor mounts, so i jumped on it.
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| ZXTjato | May 6 2014, 09:39 PM Post #669 |
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bass heads
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30$ for the window weld???? Nah you sure? Seems like an awfull lot...contractor discount? |
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| t3ragtop | May 6 2014, 10:27 PM Post #670 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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the engine will still rock in the mounts even if they are new. the oem mounts have voids designed into them that allow that movement. potting the voids with window weld is a tried and true method for decreasing the range of motion that's allowed by stock engine mounts. polyurethanes come in different shore hardness ratings. 40a shore is really pretty soft and has a fairly higm moment of compression. window weld is about the equivalent of 40a shore polyurethane. the engine mounts i'm running on my red vert with the twincam in it have had the centers cut out on a bandsaw so that only the steel ring and center bushing were left. the the bushing was positioned and 60a shore hardness polyurethane was poured in to fill the mounts from the rings to the center tubes. they allow almost no movement of the power unit. i used the poly filled mounts on the right side and the rear of the engine to the firewall along with a new oem mount on the left at the end of the transmission. i can feel a little higher frequency vibration in the pedals and toeboard area. i don't notice any real increase in noise but then i did fatmat vibration and heat damping on the whole floor, toeboard area, and i little way up the firewall. i also retained the oem rubber mat on the firewall. with the twincam it's important to control power unit movement. the g13b really, really torques hard and when it rotates in it's mounts it allows the axles to flex resulting in serious wheel hop. you cannot pull off a respectable burn out with the damned front wheels beating up and down. ![]() the turbo3 in my blue vert is in similar bondage. ![]() window weld - yes. potted in properly, you need to make sure that the cutouts in the stock rubber are completely filled, no air bubbles or voids. i drag a big nail through the voids after squeezing the window weld in there. you also need to apply window weld on both sides of the factory rubber from the outer steel ring to the center bushing. that cures as one piece to the voids. the cure poly fills one whole side, through the voids, and then fills the whole other side and that keeps vibration and compression of the rubber from spitting the poly out of the voids. both sides work together to keep the new polyurethane in position. when you look at the stock mounts they have flat rubber spacers on either side. that keeps the steel parts from rapping against the mounts' cradles. you can go pretty thick on the application of the window weld on the sides of the mounts and get enough thickness of the window weld to ditch the flat rubber spacers. we used to have suppliers of nice polyurthane inserts for the engine mounts and even inserts turned from billet aluminum (and those were noisy.) now i'm only aware of one australian source for custom polyurethane power unit mounts priced at several hundred bucks. go buy a local windshield guy a beer and beg a leftover tube of window weld from him. better yet, take him some beers along with your mounts and have him squirt it for you while you smooth things up with a couple of pieces of cardboard. ![]() on the cheap end, it ain't rocket science but i've done a bunch of them so i figured some things out to get them done right. the first set i did just got the voids filled and it shot the poly out of the mounts pretty fast. the ones with the voids filled along with the thick sides never failed in any way. the ones that got the polyurethane pour looked the best and with 80a shore hardness were the sweet spot for controlling rocking (and reducing wheel hop.) go for it, dudes.
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| davegran | May 7 2014, 12:47 AM Post #671 |
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Old Fart w/Wrenches
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Luckily I had a "Dumb Luck Moment"™ and used Paypal right away. I haven't heard from him since and wondered if he is usually short on the written word and long on fast service? Update: Jess sent me an email with a tracking number that says I'll have the brace on Saturday! I'm very satisfied with that kind of service from Canada!
Edited by davegran, May 7 2014, 03:22 PM.
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| ZXTjato | May 7 2014, 08:59 PM Post #672 |
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bass heads
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You won't be disappointed with it. It's super fun to haul around corners and not have the steering be all wacky for a mile or 2 after that
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| ZXTjato | May 7 2014, 11:19 PM Post #673 |
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bass heads
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Also it's not what a car can and can not do, it's what it can do to you. My car puts a smile on my face every day, I can not put a price on the thrill and a smile. |
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| ZXTjato | May 8 2014, 07:18 PM Post #674 |
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bass heads
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Ok so tomorrow I start my head package. Is the felpro head gasket a good one I can't remember... |
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| t3ragtop | May 8 2014, 08:00 PM Post #675 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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felpro gaskets work really well on suzuki engines. i've used them on my turbo3 engines with higher combustion pressures than a regular g10 and they hang in there. ![]() when the "no-blow" scandal happened i replaced the one in my lil' black monster turbo3 with a felpro head gasket i had in the garage because i know they work. |
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totally dude! Got the trans drippings oil all over it and it's oily ready for a blaze. And in other news a metro burns to the ground from a rag tied to the exhaust to stop a rattle....




6:44 PM Jul 10