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Street credibility; Built not bought
Topic Started: Sep 24 2013, 06:37 PM (56,752 Views)
ZXTjato
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bass heads

bikeAmusPrime
Feb 3 2016, 09:52 PM
What kind of pads do you have?
The cheapest organic pads I can buy, why you may ask? Because on this year of geo replacing the rotor is a pain in the ass, renting the hub slide hammer, stressing the bearings etc etc. so in my mind buying cheap pads that throw clouds of dust, over heat quick and wear fast but do little to no damage to the rotor is good in my book. I have never actually done any "data" to back up my thinking tho. and I can take the angle grinder to them and make gooves for more bite. Also every time I get a chance ill rotate the pads around, I also don't use the sheet metal hardware that comes in the boxes like the chatter keepers and squeak things. yea my brakes can chatter a bit but at least I know they are floating and not bound up. Changing the fluid on a semi regular basis makes the largest difference to me, I over heat those flimsy pads all the time and the fluid is not that durable so a good change keeps the brakes tight and responsive. The other thing about the cheep pads is the cold braking performance is good, hot braking performance is the trade off tho. I had some pads at one point with super good bite when they got warmed up a bit and stayed hot, but say just 1 single stop time on cold brakes they didn't feel as good as the cheapos. trade offs I guess.
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bikeAmusPrime
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ZXTjato
Feb 3 2016, 10:35 PM
bikeAmusPrime
Feb 3 2016, 09:52 PM
What kind of pads do you have?
The cheapest organic pads I can buy, why you may ask? Because on this year of geo replacing the rotor is a pain in the ass, renting the hub slide hammer, stressing the bearings etc etc. so in my mind buying cheap pads that throw clouds of dust, over heat quick and wear fast but do little to no damage to the rotor is good in my book. I have never actually done any "data" to back up my thinking tho. and I can take the angle grinder to them and make gooves for more bite. Also every time I get a chance ill rotate the pads around, I also don't use the sheet metal hardware that comes in the boxes like the chatter keepers and squeak things. yea my brakes can chatter a bit but at least I know they are floating and not bound up. Changing the fluid on a semi regular basis makes the largest difference to me, I over heat those flimsy pads all the time and the fluid is not that durable so a good change keeps the brakes tight and responsive. The other thing about the cheep pads is the cold braking performance is good, hot braking performance is the trade off tho. I had some pads at one point with super good bite when they got warmed up a bit and stayed hot, but say just 1 single stop time on cold brakes they didn't feel as good as the cheapos. trade offs I guess.
I have been doing a semi metallic or ceramic pads on all of my metros. When I did the bearings, seals, pads, and rotors on my other geo (like you did) it came out okay. I seem to always get brake fade. I cook the brakes on my metro. Smell hot metal. My swift has the factory vented rotors but, I put drilled and slotted rotors on it with ceramic pads. Mad a better difference. I think I'm going to change out for a high temp brake fliud. I feel like I get brake fade at the end of high speed brake heavy steep hills.
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bikeAmusPrime
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I think that the pads slide was caught and when you pressed the brake pedal it smashed it. DI'd you use the slide plates? (Or whatever they are called)
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ZXTjato
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bass heads

bikeAmusPrime
Feb 4 2016, 05:29 AM
I think that the pads slide was caught and when you pressed the brake pedal it smashed it. DI'd you use the slide plates? (Or whatever they are called)
I did use the slide plates yea, and when I rolled the car before pumping the piston up I think the pad fell out. something I been doing is when I change the oil in the car I use a turkey baster to suck out the fluid from the tank on the fire wall. then re fill it with clean fluid. I know for sure the fluid breaks down much faster in our metros that see heavy use, and I'm in the same situation as you, can cook the brakes super quick. when you change your fluid try some high temp stuff see what it feels like, get under the car have some one pump up the brakes and crack open the line and repeat the process till you need to fill up with fluid like 4 or 5 times. when we did scratchpaddys metro his fluid was nasty and dark, we ran all the lines clean, in the back was almost a sludge in the lines. amazing how that fluid is often over looked.
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Mythstae
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scratchpaddy
Jan 31 2016, 11:30 PM
While I was there, I did help with one other little job. Did anybody know how insanely easy it is to add cruise control to a Yaris? I think this is true of most newer Toyotas. Just release three little clips to pop off the steering wheel...

Posted Image

Then attach the switch and plug it in to the empty 4-pin slot. Done! All the wiring is already there, and the ECU is already programmed to handle it. I guess there are one or two upsides to an electronic throttle. Almost makes up for the five seconds it takes for the car to respond if you floor it. ^o)

Posted Image
Ok, I have to resurrect this thread for a minute to ask... what years of Yaris does this work on? :hmm

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scratchpaddy
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Not so fast

Mythstae
Mar 15 2016, 09:06 PM
Ok, I have to resurrect this thread for a minute to ask... what years of Yaris does this work on? :hmm

All! ^o) In the U.S., at least. Some European and Asian Yarises (Yarii?) are not programmed to handle cruise, but every Yaris sold in the U.S. is equipped to handle it. On stick-shift cars, you need to install a switch that disables it if you press the clutch, but the wiring behind it is also in place from the factory.

The steering wheel style changed in 2012. The car we did was a 2013 model, where the airbag is held in by three spring clips. Earlier models had screws. The switch itself is the same for all models years, so far.

There's a guy on the YarisWorld forums, CTScott, that was instrumental in figuring all of that out. He sells kits that include all the OEM parts you need, including the screws and alternate trim cover with the hole for the CC stalk to come through. The kit we bought was $50. A kit for a manual car will be a little more because of the clutch switch. Sign up and PM him if you want one. :deal

DIY: 2006-2011 Yaris OEM Cruise Control Complete Installation

DIY Cruise Control for 2012 Yaris - Good News!
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Mythstae
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scratchpaddy
Mar 15 2016, 09:33 PM
Mythstae
Mar 15 2016, 09:06 PM
Ok, I have to resurrect this thread for a minute to ask... what years of Yaris does this work on? :hmm

All! ^o) In the U.S., at least. Some European and Asian Yarises (Yarii?) are not programmed to handle cruise, but every Yaris sold in the U.S. is equipped to handle it. On stick-shift cars, you need to install a switch that disables it if you press the clutch, but the wiring behind it is also in place from the factory.

The steering wheel style changed in 2012. The car we did was a 2013 model, where the airbag is held in by three spring clips. Earlier models had screws. The switch itself is the same for all models years, so far.

There's a guy on the YarisWorld forums, CTScott, that was instrumental in figuring all of that out. He sells kits that include all the OEM parts you need, including the screws and alternate trim cover with the hole for the CC stalk to come through. The kit we bought was $50. A kit for a manual car will be a little more because of the clutch switch. Sign up and PM him if you want one. :deal

DIY: 2006-2011 Yaris OEM Cruise Control Complete Installation

DIY Cruise Control for 2012 Yaris - Good News!
:O I'm going to buy my sister a present!
Although I'm not thrilled about having to join another forum to buy the parts... :shake
I don't suppose you'd be willing to ask if there's an email address for him you could forward privately to me...?
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ZXTjato
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bass heads

Posted Image

ok lets start here, this is the lifter that was different than all the other lifters, you can see some marks were it may have not been able to rotate inside its hole so the cam left some marks on it, all the other lifters are polished perfect.

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very clean inside, no scum to be seen



Ok so here is the scoop, I was driving to work last week and I had changed the oil the night before did my normal procedure etc etc. On my way to work there was a bus I wanted to pass before the construction has lanes cut down so I hooned the car aggressively to leave plenty of space for the bus, after that the engine started to make some ticky sounds while I was sitting in traffic and when I would get stopped up by the wall I could hear it tick. It had crossed my mind but I didn't think much of it, half hour 40 mins later the engine is making even more noise inside so I made sure to keep my rpm lower than usual and drive it easy till I got to work. By the time I had arrived the tick became a knock clatter sound, I sent a video to my dad he said it didn't sound good so I texted DTM GTi and he told me to stop by his work so he could listen to it. When I got to his work its slamming pretty good and he said it could be a collapsed lifter so I went ahead and changed all the lifters. Well that did not change the sound at all so today after putting it all back together let it idle the new lifters in it was sounding bad. Icalled my dad and told him that the engine is making the most sound on a power stroke so he had me pull the wires off the distributer one at a time to see if the sound goes away a bit. well after pulling a wire at a time I found out that when I pull the 3 the sound mostly goes away, so its not getting any spark or making any power and it kinda stopped knocking. So the conclusion is possibly an issue in that #3 because if I take off the other 2 and let the engine run on that one bad cylinder it makes a TON of racket. so pretty much time to pull the pan look up inside and see whats going on in there. :( and it has clean oil inside bummer :banghead I just changed it
Edited by ZXTjato, Mar 22 2016, 07:22 PM.
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Metromightymouse
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Powdercoat Wizard

With how often you change your oil, that is pretty much guaranteed...

"damn, I just changed the oil a week or two ago!"
Edited by Metromightymouse, Mar 22 2016, 11:52 PM.
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68custom


maybe you will be able to just replace the rod bearings? hopefully...
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suzukitom
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Tom

Quote:
 
the tick became a knock clatter sound


Do you think the problem will be on the bottom end rather than top? (like maybe a bent valve)? It seems strange that the issue started after an aggressive driving session. I know that on my 2000 Metro, after a long run up a hill approaching redline, idling sometimes becomes very lumpy, with some valvetrain ticking for a few minutes before returning to normal. I always though this was due to the lifters pumping up.
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ZXTjato
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bass heads

suzukitom
Mar 23 2016, 02:18 PM
Quote:
 
the tick became a knock clatter sound


Do you think the problem will be on the bottom end rather than top? (like maybe a bent valve)? It seems strange that the issue started after an aggressive driving session. I know that on my 2000 Metro, after a long run up a hill approaching redline, idling sometimes becomes very lumpy, with some valvetrain ticking for a few minutes before returning to normal. I always though this was due to the lifters pumping up.
that's a great thought and yes the geos do tend to get a little funny after a hard driving session then they just go back to normal after a bit. I kinda have a game plan and I am going to clean an oil pan perfectly clean drain the oil and inspect it make sure its ok, (not having metal in it) then I'm going to change the oil on the white car since I have never done it and the oil is probably 8 years old inside of it, and just put my oil filter and oil in the white car IF it all checks out ok. Then after the oil drain I am going to pull the pan off and look up inside the engine to see if I can see any thing wrong. So stay tuned I will have pics in a few hours.
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ZXTjato
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bass heads

Posted Image

ok so I got the oil pan off and first I was thinking nothing was wrong because when I drained my oil it was clean and dint have any fragments in it so I got the pan off and here is what is goin on

Posted Image

this is the piston looking up at it and at first you cant see whats doing on so check the next picture and you can see

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here is the same picture zoomed in a bit, see if you can spot the crack in the piston :(

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and I found this in the pan. I rotated the engine around a bit and the wall is scored pretty bad where the crack is, so I assume the crack is all the way to the top of the piston :( so I'm pretty sad I blew up this motor
Edited by ZXTjato, Mar 23 2016, 06:40 PM.
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suzukitom
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Tom

Oh crap, that sucks. Everything was so clean inside the engine too! I wonder if a valve contacted the top of the piston, cracking it?

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ZXTjato
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bass heads

suzukitom
Mar 23 2016, 06:47 PM
Oh crap, that sucks. Everything was so clean inside the engine too! I wonder if a valve contacted the top of the piston, cracking it?

not likely, my dad thinks that these pistons were not of the best quality and that might have had something to do with the failure. This engine has 179K on it after its rebuild so I have no idea what to think now. I do plan on rebuilding this as soon as possible, some Nippon or YCP forged pistons and I also am going to use my old GT connecting rods because they are forged. Then ill do high compression with this engine and run premium still.
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