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| Excessive lifter tick after timing belt change - normal???; Belt broke while driving. | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Oct 15 2013, 01:48 PM (1,455 Views) | |
| cwatkin | Oct 15 2013, 01:48 PM Post #1 |
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My neighbor's car broke a timing belt. I happened to be driving and the engine just went dead instantly which makes sense. Luckily I had a spare used one at home so I got a ride back and installed it on the side of the road. The car fired up fine and I was able to drive it home without issues but the initial lifter tick was horrendous. Does this make sense after breaking a timing belt on a g10 or not? I left the timing cover off and plan to replace the water pump and timing belt with all new very soon. Conor |
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| ptcapboy | Oct 15 2013, 02:07 PM Post #2 |
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Did you line up the crankshaft and camshaft marks when you did the repair on the side of the road? |
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| Old Man | Oct 15 2013, 02:08 PM Post #3 |
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I just cant see where one affects the other. Is the oil low? Oil pump working? Open the oil fill and see oil moving? are you replacing cam, crank seals and belt tensioner at the same time? |
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| cwatkin | Oct 15 2013, 04:13 PM Post #4 |
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The oil level is right at the full mark so that wasn't the issue. The crank and camshaft marks were lined up during my roadside repair. I actually am wondering if they were off a tooth or the belt was just stretched so much because the engine seems to run much better with the new (used) belt. Yes, I plan to replace the tensioner at the same time as the timing belt and water pump. I pretty much consider that to be part of the job. I wasn't going to replace the cam or crank seal as they are both not leaking at all on this engine. Should I do it for good measure anyway? This was a transplanted engine from what I can tell and suspect they might have been changed at that time. The lifter tick went away after 10 minutes or so. I felt like I had just installed new lifters as it sounded about the same. I was wondering if breaking a timing belt during operation could have somehow caused the lifters to bleed down some. I know the oil pump is driven by the crankshaft so it would have continued to operate the short while before I took the car out of gear to coast. Conor |
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| Old Man | Oct 15 2013, 04:37 PM Post #5 |
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If I knew the history of the engine I might just leave the seals in. Since you don't know the history its kinda a crap shoot. If you change the seals you will never know if they were ready to go bad. If you don't change them and they go bad next month you will be very pissed at yourself------Whats the extra cost? 10 bucks and a half hour? that is your betting odds |
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| cwatkin | Oct 15 2013, 08:31 PM Post #6 |
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Gotcha! Plus the seals often come with the timing belt kits with the tensioner and all.... Yes, we were told that the timing belt and water pump were just changed when we got the car. I could see pretty fresh RTV on the water pump gasket so figured they were telling the truth. I even removed the top 4-5 bolts from the timing cover so that I could pull it back a little and look with a flashlight, even before I drove it home. The belt looked ok. The only spot that looked bad is right where it busted. This is the "Frankenstein" 1992 Metro so all the history is basically being found out as I work on it. Conor |
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| cwatkin | Oct 16 2013, 10:18 AM Post #7 |
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I may drive the car a little more and replace the lifters if the ticking keeps coming back at the same time as the other work. Conor |
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| mrchance | Oct 19 2013, 11:40 AM Post #8 |
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Blucifer's owner - Brad
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if you plan on waiting... see if you can pick up a used set now. clean em up and drop them in when you yard the cam out. Between $40 and $150 for new. if you don't use em now, put em in a ziplock and save em for later |
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| gbreadman | Oct 20 2013, 07:29 PM Post #9 |
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Tinkerer
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Incorrect timing mark on the cam sprocket?
Edited by gbreadman, Oct 20 2013, 07:35 PM.
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