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| Under-power/ Misfire, Think Timing is off?; Timing 1990 Geo Metro Lsi 1.0L Auto 4 door | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Oct 18 2013, 07:35 PM (2,283 Views) | |
| BillMan | Oct 19 2013, 12:33 PM Post #16 |
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Elite Member
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Everyone keeps telling me a notch or two wouldn't matter.... I don't get it.. |
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| Memphis metro | Oct 19 2013, 12:35 PM Post #17 |
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One tooth off will make a lot of differance. It has to be right. |
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| BillMan | Oct 19 2013, 07:19 PM Post #18 |
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Elite Member
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Got it timed, it was out of time... My friend had a timing light I paid $20 too. He moved the distributor as he said when you time, the distributor usually needs to be nudged a tish. He made it 10x better, but cant be moved any more. He said my engine shouldn't be shaking like it was. He got it a lot better but said it is still a little out of time. I paid someone $200 to time it and install a timing cover. (Needed a new one) Well, I don't know what the mechanic shop is going to do to me now when I go in and tell them the car needs to be timed still? What do I even tell them? How much more are they going to charge me? The $200 again? Edited by BillMan, Oct 19 2013, 07:19 PM.
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| David95237 | Oct 19 2013, 08:39 PM Post #19 |
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No coment? |
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| Woodie | Oct 20 2013, 06:41 AM Post #20 |
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If you had to move the distributor all the way to the end of the slot, then your timing belt is off a tooth. |
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| socal geo garage | Oct 20 2013, 01:31 PM Post #21 |
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they did the job wrong, u should not be paying anything. |
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| ptcapboy | Oct 20 2013, 02:29 PM Post #22 |
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If it were me I would start over-(like other people said-forget the spring, if the mechanic lined up the CRANKSHAFT to the spring then the notch is too far to the right-look at the picture and you can see the spring is to the right of the mark on the oil pump that is supposed to be used as a reference point) take off the timing belt-put a 17mm socket on the end of the CRANKSHAFT sprocket and rotate it clockwise until the notch on the sprocket lines straight up with the notch on the oil pump-now check your CAMSHAFT sprocket on top-using the same 17mm socket rotate the camshaft clockwise until the notch on the sprocket lines up with the mark on the valve cover behind it-now re-install the timing belt-using the 17mm socket rotate the bottom CRANKSHAFT 2 full 360 degree turns until the top CAMSHAFT sprocket lines up with the mark again-check both sets of marks to make sure they still line up. when you start the car it may run rough because now the ignition timing needs to be reset-use a timing light to set it properly and you're good to go |
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| mrchance | Oct 20 2013, 03:06 PM Post #23 |
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Blucifer's owner - Brad
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The timing being off 1 tooth will make it run poor. Hence, the teeth and marks. You can make it 1/2 way better by moving the distributor (only recommended for roadside repair). If you run the engine like this very much, it will burn valves and you will need a rebuilt motor. Print off the pictures posted by rhino, and the instructions posted by SoCal... give them to the mechanic and ask him to fix the timing. Be friendly, but don't kiss butt. This happens sometimes. Any decent shop will stand behind their work. $300 seems heavy for a timing belt, so make sure to take 2 candies from the jar instead of 1. |
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| BillMan | Oct 22 2013, 10:18 AM Post #24 |
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Went back in, brought him the directions, he said that it was exactly lined up with the mark and he doesn't know what is causing the engine vibrations. He moved the distributor back... But engine had a shake... Moved up in advance.. And a lot of shaking is gone, but engine seems to be idling high? I could be wrong. Could the engine shake be caused by something else? When I got it back this time though, was not loosing power, but I could feel the steering wheel shaking and the engine was shaking as well. Would like to get rid of the shake. |
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| BillMan | Oct 22 2013, 10:28 AM Post #25 |
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Elite Member
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I don't have that one mark on my engine, mine is a little different han the picture posted, however. It makes since. The timing is set correctly so not sure what the next step would be? |
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| David95237 | Oct 22 2013, 10:57 AM Post #26 |
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find a new mechanic |
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| ptcapboy | Oct 22 2013, 02:39 PM Post #27 |
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Hi-regarding my previous post my cars are a 95 and 96 so the marks/spring may be different than your earlier model-didn't think of that till now |
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| David95237 | Oct 22 2013, 05:33 PM Post #28 |
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The mark is in the same place, He just has to find it. His timing is still off |
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| mrchance | Oct 23 2013, 09:11 PM Post #29 |
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Blucifer's owner - Brad
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I agree... I think he didn't pay attention and doesn't wanna fix it. He said he went to a screw... it could have been the screw that makes it a tooth off location. Turning the distributor timing will compensate for a little while, till your valves burn up. Find a new mechanic. Search GMF mechanics in your area ---> GMF Mechanics Edited by mrchance, Oct 23 2013, 09:24 PM.
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| BillMan | Oct 27 2013, 02:33 PM Post #30 |
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I spent the $200 I saved up, so I can not afford it any longer... I brought it back in, with the directions on exactly where the timing mark was, behind the spring. He told me they were lined up correctly and he got it spot on. He adjusted it, the engine seems shaky. somewhat still. So, turning the distributor a little bit will burn the valves up? Also, when he put the cover back on, a bolt or two was loose, like the center bolt on the timing cover, the alternator belt went right threw my timing cover. SUCKY!! All because he didn't tighten it down. But I guess I know he looked at it? |
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