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| Engine Rebuilt, almost no compression | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Oct 26 2013, 06:18 PM (3,396 Views) | |
| Frozen_Joker | Oct 26 2013, 06:18 PM Post #1 |
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Elite Member
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So I just did a rebuild on my 2000 Metro 1.3L Timing is corrected now and everything. I have all new stuff in this thing from the top down. I just did a compression test and this is what I got. #1 - 85 #2 - 30 #3 - 30 #4 - 85 Now this has me wondering if the head gasket has something to do with this. When I put it on, and yes its the right way, some of the holes in the gasket were smaller. Minus the cylinder holes. Is this a faulty gasket? I did not put RTV on it cause I never have for a head gasket and never had an issue. New valves, valve seals, piston rings, cylinders were honed. |
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| PTA2PTB | Oct 26 2013, 06:21 PM Post #2 |
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I'm totally awesome! I swear.
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Are you sure you have it timed correctly? |
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| Frozen_Joker | Oct 26 2013, 07:02 PM Post #3 |
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Pretty darned positive I have it timed correctly. |
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| Frozen_Joker | Oct 26 2013, 07:02 PM Post #4 |
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What is the proper process to go through to time it? |
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| PTA2PTB | Oct 26 2013, 07:17 PM Post #5 |
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I'm totally awesome! I swear.
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rotate your crankshaft so the timing marks are set at TDC align your crankshaft timing index marks as appropriate for your engine install timing belt rotate engine 720 degrees, by hand check, then re-check, timing alignment marks, taking corrective action, if/as necessary If this is done - correctly, and with your distributor set to the mid-way point in its rotational slot, the car should start. If you have to rotate the distributor to either extreme in its rotational slot, you've got the timing off by one tooth in either direction. Go back to step one, rinse, lather, repeat. |
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| CityConnection | Oct 26 2013, 07:24 PM Post #6 |
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Sir, yes sir!
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When you have the timing marks lined up on the crank and cam install the belt. Before buttoning up the engine rotate the crank 2 complete revolutions and check if the marks still line up. It's easy to be off a tooth (or two). If the marks line up: you're done! If not: try again noting how far off the timing marks were. Edit: What he said
Edited by CityConnection, Oct 26 2013, 07:25 PM.
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| thevipofdbz | Oct 26 2013, 08:14 PM Post #7 |
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On my 95 there was 2 different marks on he cam sprocket. I Lined it up to the wrong one the first time I did it. I did a head gasket on my 96 and notice the hole was smaller on one of the holes in the block but I compared it to my other old head gasket (Stock i think) and it was the same? Good luck with your engine |
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| Frozen_Joker | Oct 26 2013, 08:30 PM Post #8 |
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Elite Member
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I did this as stated, but I only rotated it 360. That is my issue then. Will update in the morning. Thanks for the help PTA! And yes, the camshaft gear has 2 marks. E is mine, I already determined this. Lol. Clockwise correct? |
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| Old Man | Oct 26 2013, 08:44 PM Post #9 |
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If the timing is off you will show low compression. common problem is to time it to the wrong mark. Here is a "how to" read down and study the first diagram and the first pic after the diagram. http://geometroforum.com/topic/2232748/1/ Edited by Old Man, Oct 26 2013, 09:06 PM.
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| PTA2PTB | Oct 26 2013, 08:46 PM Post #10 |
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I'm totally awesome! I swear.
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IMO, the easiest - and surest, way to determine which of the two camshaft gear timing marks to use, is to reverse engineer it: start by aligning your crankshaft pulley's index mark with the TDC mark on your timing cover. Pull off your distributor cap and align your rotor with the #1 spark plug tower of the cap (you may want to make a mark on the dizzy housing with a sharpee before pulling the cap, to help pinpoint that spot). With your crank set to TDC, and your dizzy set to the #1 plug tower, now attempt to install your camshaft gear. Try both orientations. One of them should be spot on. The other, not so much. |
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| Deleted User | Oct 26 2013, 08:55 PM Post #11 |
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PTA2PTB is banished back to the humor department. No distributor on a G13BB engine. |
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| Frozen_Joker | Oct 26 2013, 09:05 PM Post #12 |
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Elite Member
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I do not have a dizzy or lifters. :p But I had the gist before, just was 360 off. I do not mess with these little motors much. Lol. I have the rarer G13BB motor. Will throw pics up of the rebuild here shortly. |
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| Frozen_Joker | Oct 26 2013, 10:58 PM Post #13 |
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Elite Member
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Before the rebuild:![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Removing paint from the intake with aircraft paint remover: ![]() Done and back in. Messed up some on the paint, but I had one day once it was cleaned it paint it and begin reassembly. Working out of my basement right now till I rebuild my garage, burnt down. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Rebuilding a replacement A/C, Power Steering, Alt, and I have a replacement header I am painting now. Most the other parts will receive black. But for now I have to continue on to my 500RWHP 4cl Ranger Rebuild, you can see that post at Ford-Truck Enthusiasts. Edited by Frozen_Joker, Oct 26 2013, 11:00 PM.
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| vr4 | Oct 26 2013, 11:44 PM Post #14 |
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That's quite a bit of power for a turbo 2.3 Timing is off. Also make sure valve lash is good |
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| Frozen_Joker | Oct 26 2013, 11:50 PM Post #15 |
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Elite Member
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Sure is, but it can handle it. And I have the 2.5L. Which is essentially the same as the 2.3L. Its quite possible to hit 400, but I am trying to reach 500-600 range. It will be fun! http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1275715-98-ranger-build.html There is the link for it. Lol. I have Jesse Warren to thank for the idea and some of the mods/fabs he did to his. |
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PTA2PTB is banished back to the humor department. No distributor on a G13BB engine. 









2:15 PM Jul 11