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Engine Rebuilt, almost no compression
Topic Started: Oct 26 2013, 06:18 PM (3,400 Views)
David95237


Make sure the pin in the cam is straight down when your cam mark is up.
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2000Firefly1.3L
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The proper cam mark is the 'E'
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Old Man


David95237
Oct 27 2013, 05:23 PM
Make sure the pin in the cam is straight down when your cam mark is up.
Yes. Cam pin down, CRANK key up. alignment marks should be real close at that time. Align them exactly. turn engine over twice. marks should re-align.
Edited by Old Man, Oct 27 2013, 06:48 PM.
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David95237


works every time
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Frozen_Joker
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Not sure what you mean by crank key nor cam pin. Lol. But both of my timing marks are on the UPPER side of both Cam and Crank. So that is where they will be lined up at. And yes I know its E, I already knew this before the rebuild. The cam mark E will be lined up with the notch at the top of the valve cover. The crank "dot" will be lined up with the "line" above it on the block.
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David95237


You better find the cam pin, in the slot of the pulley. and it must point straight down.
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Frozen_Joker
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?? The only "Pin" I can imagine you are talking about would be the pin in the CRANK sprocket, and that is in the same spot as the "dot" on the sprocket. In my earlier post I posted those two links and both of those are how my two gears look.
Edited by Frozen_Joker, Oct 27 2013, 09:51 PM.
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Deleted User
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There is a little alignment pin in the end of the camshaft. There is a slot on the camshaft timing belt gear that fits over this pin. That's how the camshaft timing belt gear gets it's position set relative to the camshaft. You can barely see it if you look past the flange of the bolt that retains the camshaft timing belt gear to the camshaft.

That pin goes down. The mark on the camshaft timing belt gear opposite of that pin goes up.
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socal geo garage
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you use the mark on the sprocket that is lined up when this pin is down.

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Edited by socal geo garage, Oct 27 2013, 10:20 PM.
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David95237


That sprocket only has one slot. yours has two slots. Have to pick the one straight down.
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Frozen_Joker
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Well considering I never took my cam apart, I should not have an issue with this then. Also know I have the 1.3 4cyl, not the 3 cyl and I have run across numerous differences between the two.
Edited by Frozen_Joker, Oct 28 2013, 01:19 AM.
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Frozen_Joker
Oct 26 2013, 06:18 PM
So I just did a rebuild on my 2000 Metro 1.3L . . . I have all new stuff in this thing from the top down. . . .
Frozen_Joker
Oct 28 2013, 01:15 AM
Well considering I never took my cam apart . . .
You most certainly would have to take off the camshaft timing gear to install a new seal.

So, the "I have all new stuff in this thing from the top down" isn't exactly all new stuff?

Those cylinders looked pretty rusty in Post #13. Did you even measure the bores? Or, check the ring gaps? Or, check the piston to wall clearance? New pistons?

Those honed rusty cylinders may have quite a bit to do with your almost no compression problem. :hmm
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Frozen_Joker
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Glenn, I am not a two bit and I know what I am doing. I used to work at a machine shop. I know how to hone and remove rust via a polish. Lol. When I got done with the cylinders they were shiney. I honed it to give the piston rings a seat after the polish. I didn't lose enough off the cylinder wall to make a difference. I checked the gap on the rings, and had no need to gap them or close them any....thanks to buying DNJ. I never go wrong with DNJ. And I didn't need to change that seal cause I had gotten a replacement camshaft from a guy I know with a a new seal on it. All I had to do was give the cam lobes some polish. Done. Lol. That cam had 5k miles on another motor.

I am not incompetent. :p So there ya go. Its almost sunrise and I will be redoing the timing one more time before I try moving on to the next probable cause, this silly looking head gasket.
Edited by Frozen_Joker, Oct 28 2013, 05:26 AM.
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Woodie
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Your replacement camshaft had the gear installed on the other option. Try using the "I" timing mark.
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