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| dimensions for lower radiator support and frame rails | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Nov 25 2013, 04:18 PM (1,281 Views) | |
| terry8750 | Nov 25 2013, 04:18 PM Post #1 |
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terry8750
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what are the dimensions for the length of the radiator support to frame rails for a 2000 metro hatchback.and i also need the distance from the center of the lower a arm bolts center to center.also need to dimensions of theframe rail to mounting point of the fenders and lower front bumper |
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| terry8750 | Nov 25 2013, 04:31 PM Post #2 |
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terry8750
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| terry8750 | Nov 25 2013, 08:36 PM Post #3 |
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terry8750
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the frame and fenders are way out of wack.so if anyone could chime in id appirciate it |
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| terry8750 | Nov 26 2013, 09:17 AM Post #4 |
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terry8750
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bump |
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| evmetro | Nov 26 2013, 10:11 AM Post #5 |
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Not sure what the exact spec is, but these front ends are super easy to square. Just cross measure from the rear most fender bolt on one fender to the front most bolt on the other, then do the same to the other side. Both diagonal measure ments should be the same. You can also compare an additional cross measurement by using one of the 3 strut bolts instead of the rear fender bolts. You can get close enough on height measurements as well by putting the tip of a measuring tape on the ground and measuring up to points on each side and comparing. I like to verify equal tire inflation before doing comparative height measurements. |
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| evmetro | Nov 26 2013, 10:21 AM Post #6 |
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If you want your hood to come down to where it is supposed to be on the driver side, make your hood latch go down. It appears that the lower support has damage that is pushing the hood latch up via the vertical support. You can loosen the bolt on the bottom of the vertical, and you can loosen the hood latch bolts to try to adjust the latch downwards. |
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| terry8750 | Nov 26 2013, 11:56 AM Post #7 |
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terry8750
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it got hit on the front and the headlight on the passenger side is pushing up along with the bumper and fender is smashed in a little .lower rad support got pull out towards the car. |
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| terry8750 | Nov 26 2013, 02:07 PM Post #8 |
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terry8750
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i pretty well got it straightened out instead of bringing the frame to the panels i decided to i decided to bring the brackets on the panels to the frame with spacers and other assorted methods |
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| terry8750 | Nov 26 2013, 03:00 PM Post #9 |
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terry8750
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next thing im gonna start working on is tearing out all the glass are repainting it the proper way since my first failed miserably |
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| evmetro | Nov 26 2013, 03:26 PM Post #10 |
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It looks like you could use a new radiator support for that rig. If you have a cordless drill, you can pull one at pick n pull for cheap. When I pull the upper tie bar and vertical support, they usually call it a bracket and charge 15 bucks. The lower support is probably around the same. When you cross measure those lower frame rails, you can just find two identical points to do a comparative cross measure. I like to use the holes in the frame just forward of the rear control arms since my tape measure can grab the lip of the hole, and then I stretch the tape measure out to one of the holes on the opposite side of the car on the bottom of the lower radiator support where the clip holds the lower splash shield on. You can also verify you findings by doing another cross measure using the bolts of the front control arms to the same opposite holes on the lower support. If your car is hit hard enough, the frame rails buckle just above what people on this forum call the frame horns which is where your steering rods pass through. If your frame rails do not cross measure to the same dimensions, you will need a tree and a come along, and a way to anchor your vehicle since a come along will slide your vehicle before the frame rails bend straight. |
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| terry8750 | Nov 26 2013, 04:00 PM Post #11 |
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terry8750
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yea its pretty rusted.but surprisingly the frame horns aren't.ive got a hole in the one on the left but ive stopped the rust for now till i weld a patch in it. and im pretty sure the frame horn on the left is about a half inch pushed back because the front tire on the left sits back futher and rubs the fender when turning.i think i can remedy that with a half inch washer on the lower a-arm bolt.might be the shot supsension and 195/60/r15s off of my 240sx.i think that when i get new tires i will go with a smaller diameter sidewall tire to help with the rubbing.eventually i will get new suspension.but for now i gotta get the starter replaced and either rebuild the engine or just replace the head gasket and have the machine shop rebuild the head .everyone says that i might as well rebuild the engine since i will have it torn down that far.also need to rebuild the transmission in this thing since its leaking and it only makes good sense to replace eveything while im in there. |
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| terry8750 | Nov 26 2013, 04:24 PM Post #12 |
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terry8750
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on a side not i know u do really good body work and i have a question what kind of budget paint do u recommend.single stage or 2 stage urethane.is nason single stage good in the long run. |
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| terry8750 | Nov 26 2013, 04:24 PM Post #13 |
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terry8750
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im gonna be paint this in my garage |
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| terry8750 | Nov 27 2013, 11:16 AM Post #14 |
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terry8750
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| terry8750 | Nov 27 2013, 11:19 AM Post #15 |
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terry8750
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when i do get around to painting it again im gonna cover the front with fiberglass and smooth it out to where there arent any holes and put a full underbelly tray on it.my biggest mistake was rolling the car out in the sun to dry when i used a medium activator.and some areas i didnt get all the clear off of it.im probably gonna have to get a new hood too. |
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