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Items to have on hand for clutch replacement?; Ready to replace intermittently slipping clutch.
Topic Started: Dec 17 2013, 03:30 PM (502 Views)
cwatkin


I am ready to replace my clutch and have a newly machined flywheel as well as a Sachs clutch kit with pressure plate, throwout bearing, and such. I also plan to pickup a rear main seal just in case it is needed but plan to return it if not. I replaced the rear main seal about a year ago when I transplanted an engine.

I also have fresh coolant and transmission fluid in case I decide not to reuse these.

Can anyone think of anything else I might need. I really think the main issue is with the pressure plate. It seems to just barely hold with enough pressure under high loads and generally seems to only slip once the car has been continually running for 30 minutes or longer.

I let it slip more than usual one time when I was nearly home in case I got stranded. The rate of slipping increased dramatically as it got hot and I thought it might not make it home. I drove it the last couple miles in a lower gear and made it but will say that the clutch seems to hold better on subsequent drives than before I let it slip longer than I normally do. I am sure this is just a temporary fix as I am shortening the life of the clutch by doing this.

Conor
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socal geo garage
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good idea to change out the coolant pipe o ring, u will need a 14 mm deep socket for the [mount under the car]
Edited by socal geo garage, Dec 17 2013, 03:35 PM.
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Old Man


Johnys clutch change guide:
http://geometroforum.com/topic/638772/1/

If you change the flywheel be sure and use thread lock--
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dayle1960
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Fastest Hampster EVER

Just make darn sure the bolts that hold the flex plate are torqued to spec. AND USE BLUE LOCKTITE ON THEM!!!

Get a buddy to help. While you are trying to put in the bell housing bolts it sure is handy to have somebody who can move the tranny up or down or sideways.
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t3ragtop
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker

there is no flex plate on a manual. ;)

i use never seize to lube the splines on the transmission input shaft. use a little bit on the end of the shaft that silps into the pilot bearing, too. it makes it easier to pull the transmission off the next time.

use blue loc-tite on the bolts on the flywheel and torque them to 45 ft/lbs. use blue loc-tite on the pressure plate bolts, too.

i also pull the clutch cable up and lube it with chain and cable lube, especially if i don't replace the cable along with the clutch. a new clutch cable runs about $20 and i try to have a new one on hand and i hang it and lube it ahead of time to let the lube run all the way down.

if you buy a new clutch cable be aware that the g10 and g13 cables are different lengths with the g10 cable being longer. you can use a g10 cable on a g13 but you can't use the 4 banger clutch cable on a 3 cylinder. ;)

it's not a bad idea to change the axle seals, too, while you have the transmission off
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cwatkin


Yes, I will be changing the flywheel and planned to use Loctite. I have some red on hand. Is that a bad idea in case I need to pull it in the future?

I have done two engine swaps on my car in the past so know the overall drill of changing the clutch but this will be a first for me with leaving the engine in the car and pulling the trans...

Conor

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clarkdw


Red is fine as long as you know that it will require heat when you go to remove it the next time.
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