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is anything noticeably wrong in these photos?
Topic Started: Jan 2 2014, 05:19 PM (2,719 Views)
Rowbear
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For those of you that have been following along at home, you might remember I had an issue where I felt a pop in the clutch pedal and subsequently, my clutch would no longer completely disengage. Therefore, I could let out on the clutch pedal but my car acted like it was still held halfway in. The car would move but only slowly, revving the engine didn't change anything, I could shift through all the gears, and no matter how fast I let out on the pedal, it would not stall the car.

I discovered that the clutch return spring was broken and laying in the floorboard but was convinced that there was a bigger issue going on. I could pull the pedal all the way up with my toe and it did not change the performance.

So, now that I have the clutch out of the car, does anyone see anything suspicious in these photos? I'm going to go ahead and replace the clutch with a sachs, since I have everything out and imagine the old clutch has some mileage on it.

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my broken clutch return spring and how it should look
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ughh, not sure how to get images to post here, you might just have to go look at my photostream on flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/36861390@N00/
Edited by Rowbear, Jan 2 2014, 08:43 PM.
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Murf 59
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No pics showed up.
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Rowbear
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You should be able to click on the flickr link at the bottom to see all the photos. I'll try to fix the images in the meantime

Also, how do I know if i need to resurface my flywheel or not?
Edited by Rowbear, Jan 2 2014, 08:44 PM.
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patrickbruce
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average teenage gearhead

First. Fix that oil/coolant leak/s...

second. Flywheel needs resurfaced, definitely. Can't get the picture of the spring to load so I don't have any advice
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00Metro
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Any of those 4 springs on the friction plate loose? The one looks pretty shiny compared to the other 3. Might be dragging a bit. Had that problem recently.
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dayle1960
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Fastest Hampster EVER

Pics loaded on my computer. Good quality.

First, looks like you need a new shaft seal. No biggie.

Second, get a grinder and a 60 grit sanding paper disk. Hit the flywheel with it and get those things scored. Your clutch will like you for it.

Next, look closely at the four springs on the clutch. Hit them with some sort of cleaning solvent and take a look at the tangs which hold the springs in place. Where they curve look closely for cracks. If there are minute cracks then you need to replace the clutch. If the springs have flat spots on them, then you need a new clutch.

How much depth do you have on the rivet holes on the clutch surface? If you "think" you have 20-30k miles left on the clutch surface, now would be a great time to replace it because you wouldn't want to redo this maintenance again in a year or two.
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Rowbear
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I think I'm going to focus on getting the car in driveable condition then I'll come back to the leaks, but you're right, they need to be addressed. I haven't noticed the loss of much oil between changes but there is some oil around the engine. There has been a noticeable loss of coolant but I'm not sure what I'm seeing in the distributor area is oil or coolant. I fear it's oil but it would make more sense if it were coolant
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don_dowdy
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Resurface the flywheel, replace clutch disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and pilot bearing. It shouldn't be that rusty either. +1 for find and fix coolant leak. The leak around the distributor is probably oil, but coolant is leaking down into the clutch and killing it. If you don't fix the leak, the new clutch won't last long.
Edited by don_dowdy, Jan 2 2014, 10:42 PM.
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Rowbear
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I'm going to replace the clutch for sure. I'll check the springs on the old one tomorrow because I'm curious what went wrong. I thought it might be the spring on the clutch fork but it looks okay.
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Rowbear
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Thanks all
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billpinsc
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I just ordered a clutch yesterday. I priced them all around town they were 115.00-123.00 for the kit. I went on ebay and found one for 74.99 buy it now plus free shipping. So I took the add to my Advanced auto and they price matched the add. Plus it will be here today. Just thought I would let you know maybe this will help you on the cost of repair.
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macuserman
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Looks like you got lucky... The official stance is they don't price match with ebay...

Price Match Policy
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billpinsc
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macuserman
Jan 3 2014, 12:46 PM
Looks like you got lucky... The official stance is they don't price match with ebay...

Price Match Policy
I guess I did get lucky. its a small town where everybody know everybody. However he did say he listed it as a price match for another parts store So maybe he bent the rules a little. Even though it was ebay it was a seller's store and not an auction. It had a buy it now price. This could have had something to do with it.
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Horn


billpinsc
Jan 3 2014, 09:01 AM
I just ordered a clutch yesterday. I priced them all around town they were 115.00-123.00 for the kit. I went on ebay and found one for 74.99 buy it now plus free shipping. So I took the add to my Advanced auto and they price matched the add. Plus it will be here today. Just thought I would let you know maybe this will help you on the cost of repair.
:banghead :banghead :banghead

USE DISCOUNT CODES!!!!!!!!!!

Even if they didn't match, you still could have gotten it down to $77.99 by using the discount code trt41. You can usually get $40 off anything over $100...

Any time you buy from any store online, google the store name and discount. You would be surprised how much you can save.
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BobJ
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[ *  *  *  *  * ]
I can't see any obvious damage to disc or pressure plate? Is splined disc in centre of clutch disc broken/spinning? Is shaft that operates throwout bearing getting full range of motion, splines and bracket at top that holds clutch cable not skipped or stripped?

Low probability, but if it was me I would put axles back in and turn trans input shaft just to make sure power was being transferred to axles. Easy to check while apart.

I definitely need to learn more about discount codes.
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