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| Tweet Topic Started: Jan 2 2014, 05:19 PM (2,721 Views) | |
| Rowbear | Jan 6 2014, 02:47 PM Post #16 |
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what about here? The springs seem a bit beat up to me. You'll notice that one has some crazy flat spot running across it, then the other two show that the flanges around the spring are broken in some places. One of the springs (the shiniest one) spins around much more easily than the other 3. The spring at 3 o'clock here has the flat spot running across the coils. ![]() springs at 12 and 6 have pieces broken off the flanges ![]() 7 o'clock spring here shows a close up of how it is broken
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| BobJ | Jan 6 2014, 11:16 PM Post #17 |
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Elite Member
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Have seen that before. Not right but wouldn't be cause of complete failure. The springs are for cushioning engagement. For clutch to slip that bad it would have to be something like completely worn out disc, (measure it?) oil on friction pads, pressure plate bad(no clamping force), broken clutch hub, linkage hanging up affecting engagement etc. Something that prevents disc from gripping flywheel and/or pressure plate. |
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| BobJ | Jan 6 2014, 11:20 PM Post #18 |
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Elite Member
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Davegran posted these specs in another thread. Once the clutch friction disc is out, sitting in front of you, it is very easy to tell how much it is worn. The depth from the surface of the disc down to the rivets starts out at .050" brand new; the recommended minimum depth for deciding to replace is .020", a .030" tolerance. So, when the depth is, for example, .035" your clutch is 50% worn. |
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| Rowbear | Jan 7 2014, 07:52 AM Post #19 |
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It seemed like the clutch was gripping just fine but wouldn't totally release |
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| 00Metro | Jan 7 2014, 09:21 PM Post #20 |
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Yup, flat spring was dragging against flywheel. That would fit your description of still being in gear. I had mine do that with less than 15k miles on it. |
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| Rowbear | Jan 8 2014, 10:11 AM Post #21 |
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that's actually a relief to hear. Thanks. I've noticed the new sachs clutch I bought has a spring inside a spring in those 4 spots so hopefully that somehow keeps it from happening so easily and please dont tell me yours was a sachs clutch 00metro
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| Rowbear | Jan 8 2014, 05:58 PM Post #22 |
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whelp, looks like I've got another picture to show and a few more questions. First, this was wedged sort of behind the lower arm of my T.O. bearing![]() it's now a mangled metal sleeve. What is it? Where does it go and is this what was keeping my clutch from fully disengaging? 2nd question: I saw how JM made that ladyfinger type tool to get the bearing out of the flywheel, I don't have the tools to do that so, how in the shit do I get that thing out of there? I tried prying a bit with a screw driver, being careful not to gouge the inside cause I'm thinking the rear main seal is back there. I also tried the short end of an allen key but that bearing did not budge. What else should I try? Edited by Rowbear, Jan 8 2014, 06:01 PM.
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| t3ragtop | Jan 8 2014, 06:41 PM Post #23 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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in what automotive world is this valid information? find a local joint and clutch repair shop and have your flywheel serviced. it needs surface grinding and zero balancing. the fingers on the pressure plate have been worn by the throwout bearing. toss the pressure plate and throwout bearing. replace with new parts. the labor involved is more costly than parts. i never split the power unit without replacing everything on my own cars. you can buy a complete kit on ebay for $80 shipped (the type i used on my white gt.) this is the finish that you want on the flywheel's friction surface. |
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| Old Man | Jan 8 2014, 07:23 PM Post #24 |
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remove the fly wheel and push it out |
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| Rowbear | Jan 8 2014, 08:25 PM Post #25 |
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This is making me wish I had an impact wrench |
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| Memphis metro | Jan 8 2014, 08:40 PM Post #26 |
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Just put a clutch in my wifes ride not long ago and decided to see what the book said while I was doing it. Here is what it said. As for going to town with a grinder, I would likely shy away from that.
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| t3ragtop | Jan 9 2014, 02:19 AM Post #27 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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rhino, he was talking grinder, 60 grit paper, and scoring. you want a flywheel to be flat, first of all, and blanchard ground which leaves a lightly machined swirl finish. if i see that a flywheel doesn't have a badly burned and fairly smooth surface (checking with a straight edge and feeler gauges) i can understand a quick hit with 160 to 200 grit paper to clean up the surface followed by degreasing. when i see a flywheel that has burn marks that indicate high spots, a step worn in the friction surface, or grooves from rivets, i have them serviced. i've tried a number of surface preparations, too. i've used bead blasting, a special vapor blaster that used grit in a solvent carrier, and medium grit paper as a clean up but any machinist would question using a handheld grinder or anything else to burr up a flywheel. a flywheel doesn't need to be rough or scored. it does need to have a very even machine finish that will allow the friction disc to "bed" in. |
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| Rowbear | Jan 9 2014, 07:59 AM Post #28 |
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Can anyone tell me what that metal piece is in the picture above, the mangled sleeve? Anything like that on the input shaft? |
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| t3ragtop | Jan 9 2014, 03:58 PM Post #29 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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it's hard to get a sense of scale from your picture but it looks like an alignment sleeve from the transmission case that has been mangled. |
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| Memphis metro | Jan 9 2014, 04:00 PM Post #30 |
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Yeah it is hard to make out but to me it looked like one of those clips you clip on sheet metal so you can put a screw in it. |
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