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Rear Main Seal; Tore up
Topic Started: Jan 10 2014, 03:53 PM (792 Views)
4BORE
New Member
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Busy doing a clutch job, decided to replace rear main seal while at it.

Pulled off cover that holds seal, noticed the front face of seal rubbed by back of flywheel flange, so much so it caused the old seal to fail. How ever, in putting in the new seal, flush with the cover, I notice the flange of the back of the flywheel is very close to the face of the seal. Concerned that under load, the crank may be moving a bit side to side and thus may cause the flywheel (back ridge) to rub against the front face of the main seal. Hence causing the same problem.

I am considering machining about 20 thou off the back ridge of the flywheel, instead of seating the seal deeper than the front face of the seal plate. Anyone have the same problem?

Thanks.
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Boogie Rat
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With a clutch job, it's a good idea to get the flywheel re-surfaced anyway. You might do that, and re-check the clearance. Perhaps it would give you some more room
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Memphis metro


If you have that much movement you may want to see how much of your oil pump is eat away too.
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Hotrodray1
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Over Educated parts guy

Check the mount of movement may need a thrust washer.
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4BORE
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Thanx for responses:

There is also a possibility the old seal was not seated deep enough, or, it may have moved out toward the back of the flywheel. Being so old it came out of the housing very easily.

When I put the flywheel back and turn it it seems to be clear of the rear seal, (ie no rub marks on the seal face) but not sure under load.

Is there a way to check how much the crank is moving side to side? with the transaxale out?

Thanks
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Murf 59
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Big Rhino
Jan 10 2014, 04:16 PM
If you have that much movement you may want to see how much of your oil pump is eat away too.
:gp

If it is moving that much. Cutting the back off the fly wheel is not the answer. If it were mine and I was worried about this. I would set up a dial indicator on the rear flange of the crank. Then I would try moving the front of the crank in and out with a small pry bar and measure exactly how much its moving. If it is moving, you will need to go inside the engine and fix this issue. I am thinking its a poorly installed seal though. I hope this helps.
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4BORE
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Thankx, I thinks so too. (bad seal set or moved)

The car has done 195K and the seal was still holding, even tho the front of it was tore up by back of flywheel. There was oil in the bell, but not,like dripping. I will put a gauge and pry it and see if moves. If not, I'm gonna cut back the ridge on the back of the fly about 20 thou, just to be safe. I used a little bit of sealant around the edge of the new seal, so don't want to try to set it back farther now, and not in the mood to pull of and redo.

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Old Man


4BORE
Jan 10 2014, 05:49 PM
I used a little bit of sealant around the edge of the new seal, so don't want to try to set it back farther now, and not in the mood to pull of and redo.

Why go to the expense of cutting the flywheel and making it wrong when it cost nothing to fix the seal right.
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4BORE
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I am concerned about pushing the seal back, (too far in.) There is no stop. Right now it is flush with the case. I feel that the flywheel under load may be rubbing against the seal. (or the old one may not have been installed correctly, or moved forward) I dont want to put it in and in 1000 miles have a rear seal oil leak. Very easy to machine the ridge down, at the back of the flywheel ($10.) I don't even know why its there to begin with. Now, if the crank is moving, due to thrust (in and out) this is a whole new deal. And I don't want to get into a rebuild right now, so I think the flywheel cut is my best option and the cheapest.
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4BORE
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Whats been happening:

Okay, decided to check the end play on crank. Looks to be around +/- 0.0150 (fifteen thou) according to specks 0.0149 is the upper limit. A response from a tech was: if around this 0.0150, or a little more, would leave alone.

I will see whats involved replacing the thrust washers, seems to be able to be done by pulling the pan and the #3 main. If it is as easy as it sounds, I may replace the thrust washers with new ones. I also had the ridge on the back of the flywheel machined down 0.050 (fifty thou) $12.50 and the new rear main seal is set flush with the case. So I think will suffice as is.
Edited by 4BORE, Jan 11 2014, 09:51 PM.
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4BORE
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Okay, rechecked the crank end play, and its 0.008 (eight thou) so I am well in spec.

Upon checking the rear main oil seal, it seems a age related problem, not being rubbed by flywheel, so all should be good.

Thanks
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