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Replacing my clutch
Topic Started: Jan 14 2014, 12:10 AM (1,921 Views)
Silver2K


Cant tell if your joking. That "clutch oil leak" is not coming from the clutch or anywhere in the bell housing. Any oil in the bell housing would drain through the inspection hole in the bottom. That oil is coming from somewhere on top of the engine. Not familiar with the 3 cylinder, but around this time someone ususally says its the distributor seal.
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xElliot
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Green Horn
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JellyBeanDriver
Jan 14 2014, 01:01 AM
Transmission holds 2.5qts of oil, hence 3 qts you have to buy.

You might just use 10W30 oil as a flush first though since you say it's really gunky inside.
Drive it for a while then drain and fill with the good stuff.

If your dad burned up the clutch, the flywheel might need to be resurfaced.
I see. The flywheel can be resurfaced with sandpaper of 180 grit, correct?
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JellyBeanDriver


xElliot
Jan 14 2014, 01:05 AM
JellyBeanDriver
Jan 14 2014, 01:01 AM
Transmission holds 2.5qts of oil, hence 3 qts you have to buy.

You might just use 10W30 oil as a flush first though since you say it's really gunky inside.
Drive it for a while then drain and fill with the good stuff.

If your dad burned up the clutch, the flywheel might need to be resurfaced.
I see. The flywheel can be resurfaced with sandpaper of 180 grit, correct?
Yes if it isn't too bad.
This is not a Geo flywheel, but you can see that this one is bad and needs resurfacing. (ignore the red marks - they're from another forum)

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Edited by JellyBeanDriver, Jan 14 2014, 01:26 AM.
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socal geo garage
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I have never had more than 2.2 qts go in unless the trans is freshly rebuilt, I did two qts syncromesh and .2 of 30wt std motor oil.. if you mark your ignition timing at the turning adjustment point and remove the distributor. There's ...the oring see pic.

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Edited by socal geo garage, Jan 14 2014, 02:56 AM.
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xElliot
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Green Horn
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Okay I'm stuck. I finally got this brace undone.
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Is this the side I need to loosen to get to the clutch? Or the side face the engine?
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Do I need to remove the passenger side axle?
Edited by xElliot, Jan 15 2014, 08:26 PM.
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Metromightymouse
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Powdercoat Wizard

I believe you are going to need both half shafts out. Either the engine or the trans has to essentially be removed from the car as the input shaft has to be completely out of the clutch pressure plate, and I suppose it's possible to unbolt the pressure plate by rotating the engine to access all the bolts, but it just makes more sense to me to drop the trans to the ground or all the way down on the jack so you can access all the bolts and do the disassembly and reassembly without having to fight for access.
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xElliot
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Green Horn
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I have reached a problem. One of the bolts I need to remove is A) almost stripped on the head and B) in an impossible area to get to thanks to my straight exhaust.
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socal geo garage
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You don't need to remove those bolts or that motor mount bracket,remove the two 14mm you are seeing when you look up you will need a deep socket 14mm,remove both axles, and the flywheel splash cover window 2- 10 mm bolts] remove starter ,and don't forget the hidden 14mm bellhousing nut/stud its below the starter,drop the trans down....... that bracket does not need to come off to remove the transmission.

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Edited by socal geo garage, Jan 17 2014, 12:41 PM.
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xElliot
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Green Horn
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Thank you. I was hoping I didn't have to remove the passenger wheel lol.

Waiting on a buddy to bring tools to help remove the stuck bolt on saturday
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xElliot
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Green Horn
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Finally got it all together HURRAY
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Metromightymouse
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Powdercoat Wizard

Break it in properly. If you spin it, it might not recover.
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