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Headlight switch dissasembly
Topic Started: Jan 14 2014, 10:04 PM (1,408 Views)
DopeOperator
Aspiring Geo Enthusiast
[ *  * ]
Has anyone disassembled and cleaned the headlight switch after removing it from the column? I believe the contacts are dirty on the switch and want to clean them. Before I do however has anyone else done this? If so were there any springs that I need to watch out for or anything else of concern? Any advice would be helpful.

I have searched the forums and did not find anything on this topic so if by chance I missed it I apologize.
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Stiffchezze
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Sir Metrologist

The switch itself is contained inside the blinker arm. After the switch was made, it was assembled by pressing the end in. There are small plastic clips inside the arm holding it together. The end just pulls off, BUT there is no way to pull it apart without breaking the plastic clips and breaking the switch. The only way to get it apart is to destroy it. :(

More than likely your problem, whatever it is, is somewhere else. Post your problem and we'll see if we can help.
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Deleted User
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Stiffchezze
Jan 14 2014, 10:13 PM
More than likely your problem, whatever it is, is somewhere else. Post your problem and we'll see if we can help.
:gp

That's exactly what I was thinking.

What is your problem?

Chances are, the cure is not in the headlight switch on the column.

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DopeOperator
Aspiring Geo Enthusiast
[ *  * ]
My headlights are not always coming on when I turn rotate the switch. My running and dash lights will come on however my headlights may not always. I sometimes have to turn the switch a few times to get it to turn on. There is no flickering or dimming of the headlights or any issue than the lights not turning on immediatly when i rotate the switch.
The reason I believe that the contacts are dirty is because for a long time my steering wheel squeaked when I turned the wheel so my solution was to spray silicone spray in the column to alleviate the sound. I know it was not a smart solution but it was all I had at the time and it was a quick fix.
I have read the other threads dealing with the burnt out pin on the fuse panel and was not sure that this dealt with my issue. Any advice on where else I could look.
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Stiffchezze
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Sir Metrologist

The burnt pin is 99.9% likely you problem
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Deleted User
Deleted User

It takes less than a minute to look and see if you have a burned pin in the connector.

Go look.
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Rocco709
New Member
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The headlight switch arm only rotates and moves contacts located inside the switch itself. If you unplug the connectors, remove the steering wheel, the plastic column covers, you can remove the switch by removing 3 screws holding it to the column. Once removed, flip it over, you will see 2 screws holding the switch portion together, along with one wire tie, keeping the wires out of the way for mounting. Cut the wire tie, and remove the 2 screws. lift up on the portion of the circuit board closest to the steering shaft hole, and slide the 2 prongs out of the other side. Now you can wipe out the excess dielectric grease and sand down the contacts. On my car, the plug at the fuse block had burnt, black wire with red stripe (ground) I cut it off of the plug, and added a 3" piece of wire, and a lug to the wire, and when reinstalling grounded it to the fuse block mounting bolt.
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Nappers
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I took mine apart as had the symptoms of crappy connections after doing the bad fuse box/junction re-do.....

http://geometroforum.com/single/?p=668954&t=4774111

Hope it helps.
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Geo Pete


Stiffchezze
Jan 14 2014, 10:13 PM
The switch itself is contained inside the blinker arm. After the switch was made, it was assembled by pressing the end in. There are small plastic clips inside the arm holding it together. The end just pulls off, BUT there is no way to pull it apart without breaking the plastic clips and breaking the switch. The only way to get it apart is to destroy it. :(

Now, isn't there some ingenious person who has figured out how to pull off the end, repair whatever part inside broke so it now goes around in a 360-degree circle instead of stopping at the proper places, and reinstall? Seems like there should be a way to do this.

Pete
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ptcapboy


I would check for burnt connecters first around the fusebox before trying to take off the switch-much easier job and you may find a problem there-
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Hanuman
"The Almighty Grounds Cleaner"

:+1 for burned wires at fuse box.
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Geo Pete


No burnt wires. The switch goes around 360 without doing anything. Whatever plastic bits inside normally prevent it from doing this are broken. The question is, can you repair it without buying and installing a new combination switch?
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pborten
New Member
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Anyone? It'll be around $65 for a new-to-me combo switch from eBay, plus taking off the steering wheel, etc. If I could fix the existing switch, that would be better.
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Geo Pete


Well, I bought a new-to-me combo switch off eBay for $43 shipped and installed it today. Problem fixed. If I figure out whether it's possible to fix the old one, I'll post.
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ptcapboy


hey geo pete what's "new to me" mean? How hard was the job? your car have airbags? I was thinking my car may need a switch but it turned out to be a burnt wire on a plug-also had a dead white red wire which I had to bypass-congratulations on fixing your car-43 dollars is a great price-
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