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CV shaft disassembly and assembly help???
Topic Started: Jan 25 2014, 02:34 PM (941 Views)
Murf 59
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Hey guys and gals. I need a how to for take the CV shafts apart. I know how to get the boots off, but an not sure how to take the stub ends off the actual axel shaft. So I could use a hand please. Thank you in advance. Murf
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Memphis metro


Maybe scoobs will tell you here, should not be too hard to figure out. I am sure you will get it. Most of the time they just pull out.

http://geometroforum.com/topic/4691320/1/
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ptcapboy


Are your cv joints bad? Myself I just buy the rebuilt shafts-cheap with exchange about 40 bucks last time I did it
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Good bye


The above link is good, I use a big dead blow hammer. The end comes right off and doesn't damage anything. Remember servicing air cooled VWs in the 70s. Cv joint clean and repack with new boots every 60k miles. :cheers
Edited by Good bye, Jan 25 2014, 08:59 PM.
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Murf 59
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I want to lighten my axle shafts for my next go at Bonneville. I want to bore the shaft out some, to remove flywheel weight.
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Good bye


Great to hear there is another Bonneville run in your future. :thumb
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yummybacon


I have not replaced any of my CV joint.Its really easy to simply pull them apart clean and repack with grease.I do use synthetic grease and new boots.If you can get 2 from pull a part on the cheap rebuild them than install and rebuild the old ones its nice to have a spare set on ready to go.
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Murf 59
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yummybacon
Jan 26 2014, 01:58 PM
I have not replaced any of my CV joint.Its really easy to simply pull them apart clean and repack with grease.I do use synthetic grease and new boots.If you can get 2 from pull a part on the cheap rebuild them than install and rebuild the old ones its nice to have a spare set on ready to go.
There is nothing wrong with the ones in the car now. I want to lighten them up so that hopefully when I hit the salt I can go faster by spinning less weight. Well that's what is says in the fine print. A few decades ago, I used to rebuild them for a trans shop I worked in. It was simple, you pulled the boots off, cleaned out all the grease. Then pulled the ends over at a hard angle, which exposed a snap ring. You spread the snap ring and the whole thing came apart. But I am not seeing anything like that is this one. Once the shafts are torn apart. I will take them to the machinist and have them bored to about 1/3 the thickness of the shaft dia. Then when I reassy the shafts, I will use straight 90w oil in the knuckles to reduce lose of torque thru the grease. Its only a small # gain, but I have found when you put a bunch of the little things like this together, you can get a big improvement.
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Bjetmech
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The link in Scoobs topic don't work anymore. Is there any source for the shaft ends?
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Old Man


try it again. 18 minutes after your no link post I was able to easily access Scoobs thread.
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Memphis metro


He said the link in scoobs thread. Ebay link I assume.
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Bjetmech
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Yes the ebay link, sorry.

Did a search and all everyone is selling is the complete shafts.
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Memphis metro


Complete shaft is the only way to go anyway most of the time. Most people never give cv axles a second thought until popping and such is going on and it is too late at that point. If you catch the axle as soon as the boot tears and reboot and grease it, yeah not bad. It is usually too late.
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Bjetmech
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Just have some of the older 4cyl shafts that have the middle bearing and wanted to rebuild them. All the 4 cyl shafts for sale are just the straight shaft.

BTW what is the difference between the 4 cyl shafts and the 3 cyl shafts. I have seen different part numbers, but some have put a 3.52 trans (4 cyl) on a 3 cyl. Does that mean they put the 4 cyl shafts after putting the 3.52 in their car?
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Good bye


The transmission mounts in a different spot in the car depending on whether you have a 3 or a 4 cylinder engine. That is why the axles are different lengths.
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