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| Speedometer Floating | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Apr 6 2014, 02:20 AM (756 Views) | |
| macuserman | Apr 6 2014, 02:20 AM Post #1 |
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So this morning when i started driving and my speedometer started doing exciting things.... See if you can't see what is wrong with this photo: ![]() I'm not sure what happened exactly, but the speedo was fluttering and waaay off accelerating very very quickly to its maximum range before I even got out of second gear. After I stopped accelerating it would float back down some but not to where it was correct. A little later today I was driving it seems to have mostly resolved whatever issues it had although it still floats a little bit on a hard accel, but seems to be roughly accurate the rest of the time, although I'm having a hard time trusting it now. Any thoughts on how to fix this or what is causing it? Anyone else experience this before? Edited by macuserman, Apr 6 2014, 03:10 AM.
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| Metromightymouse | Apr 6 2014, 02:32 AM Post #2 |
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Powdercoat Wizard
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I would start with the speedometer cable, might need lubed. If it's in the gauge itself I don't believe it's going to be an easy fix. In taking apart a couple of different clusters there doesn't appear to be a whole lot of fixable items in there. IIRC it's a pin in a cup driven by friction with a spring holding it back. |
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| macuserman | Apr 6 2014, 02:50 AM Post #3 |
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Ugh, perhaps I should start by pulling the speedo gear housing and having a look around? I hope it isn't in the cluster, I haven't had to remove one of those yet. |
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| Metromightymouse | Apr 6 2014, 02:53 AM Post #4 |
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Powdercoat Wizard
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Don't know about the earlier consoles but the later models are a pain, but not the worst thing I have done. Pull the cable from the transmission first. |
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| yiffzer | Apr 6 2014, 03:06 AM Post #5 |
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Forgot His Manpurse
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Pull the speedometer cable from the speedometer housing in the transmission. You will see a thick metal cylinder. That has a cable that goes all the way to the firewall. Gently pull that cylinder away from the cable housing -- lubricate that and push it all the way back in. Plug in the cylinder and test. |
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| macuserman | Apr 6 2014, 03:09 AM Post #6 |
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Ok, I'll give that a try. Any thoughts on what to use for lubricant? |
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| macuserman | Apr 11 2014, 10:53 PM Post #7 |
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So.. I thought I had my speedometer mostly cured it seems to be on target most of the time now. However, as I was driving home tonight I watched my fuel gauge drop from full all the way to empty in a mater of 30seconds which is where it is staying atm. I just filled up this afternoon for the weekend and I'm quite positive that my fuel didn't all just drain out. Is my cluster toast or am I just having a string of bad luck with my gauges? |
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| JellyBeanDriver | Apr 11 2014, 11:09 PM Post #8 |
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Speedo is mechanical, no relevance to your fuel gauge which is electrical. The speedo works by spinning a magnet around the inside of a metal cup. That sets up an eddy current and drives the metal cup rotationally, the torque of which varies with the speed of the magnet. If your speedo is maxing out it's either due to: - the springs broke that return the needle to zero - not likely as the needle does zero - somehow the metal cup and the spinning magnet portion are mechanically coupling instead of just magnetically. This can be caused by a misalignment in the drive mechanism, grease getting between the two and viscously coupling them, etc. This last part is the most likely problem. I cannot ever see how a speedo cable let along lubricating it would solve this problem. Edited by JellyBeanDriver, Apr 11 2014, 11:10 PM.
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| hansel0320 | Apr 12 2014, 02:49 AM Post #9 |
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Member
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I have similar Issues where 4th gear once it reaches 45 jumps to 55. Either an electrical issue or a tranny oil issue. When was the last time the oil was changed for the tranny? Is it a stick or automatic? Are the grounds clean? Not ncessarily the solution, but ideas are ideas. Or as was posted regarding the springs. Edited by hansel0320, Apr 12 2014, 02:50 AM.
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| macuserman | Apr 12 2014, 07:40 AM Post #10 |
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Ok, so it sounds to me like the I need to open up the cluster and have a look at what is going on then? Or can you even get into that part? I haven't taken one apart before.
I'm pretty sure it is an issue with the cluster somehow. My tranny shouldn't be related but if it was I just recently did a fresh synchromesh change. Any ideas on what to check for the fuel gauge? |
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| Stiffchezze | Apr 12 2014, 07:48 AM Post #11 |
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Sir Metrologist
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Damn! 90+ MPH and only 2500 RPM! What kinda of MPG's are you getting! ![]() ![]() JellyBeanDriver is dead on. Pull that thing apart and see whats going on. Not hard at all (once you get it out, that is:banghead ) Just sit down at your work bench with a phillips head screwdriver and take your time.
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| macuserman | Apr 12 2014, 07:53 AM Post #12 |
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Ok I'll give it a go and report back. Any pointers on how to remove the cluster? I haven't needed to pull mine out yet. How big of a job is the cluster removal? |
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| Metromightymouse | Apr 13 2014, 01:58 AM Post #13 |
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Powdercoat Wizard
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There is a how to on here some where. And to respond to a previous comment, if the cable is sticking and then snapping forward to catch up it will cause the gauge to read high, lubing the cable will fix that issue. Cluster removal here http://geometroforum.com/topic/666017/1/ And this has good pics http://www.mylittlemouse.com/instrument_cluster/index.html |
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