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Only Daily Driver Down - Major Electrical Problem - HELP! (video inside); Dash lights always on, won't start, no brake/headlights (video)
Topic Started: Apr 8 2014, 09:16 AM (1,727 Views)
mostcallmerob
Backyard Mechanic
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I am in serious need of help to get my Geo back on the road, and knowing you guys work miracles and know your stuff and I hope you can help me as well.

The link to the video can be found here to give you an idea of what is going on: YouTube Video

NOTE: In the video I mentioned a pressurized/whinninh, after looking I found out it was the radiator fan kicking on. After pulling the fuse labeled FI the fan would increase in speed.

Sometime ago I purchased and installed a wiring harness and did the sealed beam to H4 bulb headlight conversion that many other members have done. That worked fine for a few weeks, and then I noticed that every time I turned on my headlights my voltage (Scanguage II) would drop to around 11.0-11.8V, sometimes as low as 10.1 volts. The more electrical I used (brakes, heater, radio) after I had the headlights on, the more the voltage would drop. Without the headlights on it would keep a steady 13.5 volts even with the heat and radio going. I assumed that it was the alternator or battery, which I both got tested and came back as passed.

The other day driving back from Denver, I noticed the voltage really dipping low and thought I smelled some kind of electrical burning. To get home I shut off the radio, heat, dash lights, and everything I could to reduce strain and get my voltage back up. Shortly after my Geo left me on the side of a mountain road in ten degree weather for three hours for the first time in four years. While driving, everything shut down instantly. Everything went out, and I can’t remember whether the engine stopped or I shut it down since it was such a shock. I pulled over using my handbrake and tried starting it, but got nothing although it was cranking. Also, the lights wouldn't turn on, the brake lights didn't work, nothing worked, except the dashboard pre-start lights were on and stayed on.

After getting towed home I tried looking into it more and checked all the fuses and melted wires. I couldn't find any blown fuses or bad wires. I AM AN IDIOT WITH ELECTRICAL, as you can probably tell by the video since I misidentified even the ignition coil. I have no idea where to start and the is my one and only daily driver, I've had to take two days off so far, and can’t afford to take anymore. So far I've gotten a fried ECM to bad ignition coil.

Any help/suggestion is appreciated. Thank you!
Edited by mostcallmerob, Apr 8 2014, 09:26 AM.
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clarkdw


Get rid of the extra harness for the headlights. Put it back to the way it was before you installed the harness. It may have a relay sticking.
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mostcallmerob
Backyard Mechanic
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I'll try your suggestion when I get home from work today clark. I was hesitant to rip all that wiring out yesterday, but you bring up a good point since that was probably the cause of the problem to begin with.
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crankcase


Quote:
 
Get rid of the extra harness for the headlights. Put it back to the way it was before you installed the harness.


:gp


Why did you put that Ebay harness on?
What symptoms did you have?
Can you make it the way it was before or did you remove original wireing that will make that hard?
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mostcallmerob
Backyard Mechanic
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The old harness is out and unfortunately I'm still experiencing the same problem, although after trying to crank the car over it did start for about a second and then immediately died. That might help in diagnosing the problem.
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crankcase


Same exact symptoms?

Noticed your cover is off for the ignition switch,
has it been like that long?
Any chance a penny or piece of metal fell in there?
Seems like you have an ignition switch problem.
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crankcase


Did you switch back to old style lights?
If you unplug the lights do any of the problems go away?

Can you check the inside fuse bay for signs of burn damage?
You may have to pull a few fuses to get a good look.

Any wire rigging done to the fan?

Any clue where the burned smell was commimg from,
but it was comming from the cabin, right?
Edited by crankcase, Apr 8 2014, 06:15 PM.
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mostcallmerob
Backyard Mechanic
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Yes sir, the only sealedd beam headlights are back in and wired properly (soldered with heat shrink tubing).
I've tried starting with both the lights hooked up and not, have been getting the same results from both.

I've checked all the fuses inside the cabin, but haven't pulled them yet to look for any kind of burning/damage. I'll be getting on that right now.

The wiring hasn't been touched at all, it's exactly as it came from factory, it's odd that the fan would turn on when the battery is hooked up and increase in speed when the FI fuse in pulled.

When the car was running I noticed the smell more strongly when the heater was on, so it seems that it may have been coming from the engine bay, although the floor heater was on and could have been pushing that smell up.
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mostcallmerob
Backyard Mechanic
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Sorry crankcase, I didn't see your other post, but I just took the cover off to inspect for any burning on the ignition switch.
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crankcase


The old daytime runnung light system used to cause electrical problems on the 3 cyl 5-speed 1995. Probably applied to the 1996 4 banger as well? You would often get a burned up fuse bay and have to rig a fix that would eliminate the day time running light module. I have a 1995 that is one of the few that still has a working factory setup.

The radiator problem makes no sense, but also, I am not looking at a factory manual to see how it is wired.
Edited by crankcase, Apr 8 2014, 06:45 PM.
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don_dowdy
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Check the relays under the hood. (Box in front of the strut tower, driver's side) If the main gets hot, the car shuts down. You may have fried it. Start simple and check the battery cables. The thin copper connectors will crack after a while.
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mostcallmerob
Backyard Mechanic
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Two interesting things I've found:

1. My ScanGuage II plug into the OBDII is melted : Posted Image


2. The OBDII plug in is also fried. Posted Image

I am uploading a video now of what I discovered by unplugged that radiator fan that kicks on when I hook up the battery terminal. The car dash lights don't stay on and I get that normal beeping sound when I insert the key, turning one more click the dash lights brighten, but it won't start.

don_dowdy, you may be onto something. I checked the main relay by pulling it and after doing that it is now making a really weird noise when I hook up the battery again.

It seems that all the relays, especially the ones associated with the lights are going really crazy and making a clicking sound that I can feel when I touch it.

VIDEO HERE: Youtube Video 2


Edited by mostcallmerob, Apr 8 2014, 08:59 PM.
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mostcallmerob
Backyard Mechanic
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In addition to this, my horn stopped working shortly before this.

Here is the correct video from my previous post:Video of Relay Box

What would be the best way to go about checking out the relays? I think replacing all of them might be pretty expensive.

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HUTCH_IND
old fart with new project
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have you checked your voltages again? when you were getting such a low voltage that is a sign you have a bad short or large current pull. if it was mine I'd disconnect everything that's not needed to run motor, start up make sure I'm getting proper voltage, watch meter as I plug stuff back in...
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mostcallmerob
Backyard Mechanic
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I haven't checked the voltage again, but that might be a good start. I guess I'd just need the Ignition, fuel injector, and battery fuses?
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