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| Installed New Alternator but bat still wont charge | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Apr 9 2014, 07:02 PM (2,499 Views) | |
| tac2013 | Apr 9 2014, 07:02 PM Post #1 |
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I searched the archives under "battery won't charge" but found nothing. My brother was driving home and the dash lights went dim and geo started missing and finally died. It started and ran on battery only for a couple of minutes and then died again and wouldn't restart. When it was towed here I checked battery and it was discharged so I put trickle charger on for about 40 hrs and battery checked out at 13.1V and car started. I checked voltage at battery with car running and it read 12.67 and stayed there for a couple minutes till I turned on headlights. then it went down to 12.49 so I felt the alternator was bad and replaced it. Now car starts right up and runs great BUT the bat voltage shows 12.64 and when I turn on headlights and fog lamps it drops to 12.29 So how do I check the alternator to see if its putting out 13-15V it is the kind with the 3 prong plug in and one heavy cable so I have no access to the wires in the plug. When I look down the line to the solenoid? I see corrosion on what looks like a bare ground cable. Is it possible for the battery to not charge even if the alternator is putting out 13-15V if there is a corroded wire somewhere and if so which wire would it likely be? Thanks Guys Patrick Skagit County, Wa 1993 Geo Metro Lsi 3/5 |
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| Memphis metro | Apr 9 2014, 07:13 PM Post #2 |
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You should get a reading of 13.8 to 14.1 at the battery. You can check the voltage output at the alternator as well. Not every rebuilt battery is good. Clean all battery cable connections as well. |
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| crankcase | Apr 9 2014, 07:45 PM Post #3 |
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Take it to the Zone etc. Many parts places will check the electrical system at no charge (no pun intended). |
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| t3ragtop | Apr 9 2014, 08:17 PM Post #4 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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there's a cable that runs from the alternator's output lug to a quick connect that snaps into the bottom of the fuse and relay rack under the hood behind the battery. that conducts electricity from the alternator to buss bars on the bottom of the rack. the first fuse in the rack will be bolted in, a 60 amp fuse, which protects the charge side of the electrical circuit. there's a smaller charge wire that runs from the relay and fuse rack over to the positive battery post connector. if that 60 amp fuse is blown, no charge reaches the battery. if there's any corrosion on any of the connections, including the battery post connector, the charging current is reduced. |
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| tac2013 | Apr 9 2014, 08:50 PM Post #5 |
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Hey Big Rino.....how can I check the voltage output at the alternator? There is a plastic plug in connector which has the connector pins encapsulated in it. I would have to strip off wire insulation next to the plug to be able to use a multimeter Patrick |
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| Memphis metro | Apr 9 2014, 09:48 PM Post #6 |
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Or, take a short wire and strip about a half inch and push it up in the corresponding terminal connector in the plug and plug it into the alternator and connect your voltmeter to the short wire stripped at the other end. I was actually thinking the alternator had a single output connector easily accessible. |
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| 1DCGUY | Apr 9 2014, 10:21 PM Post #7 |
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Don't be a "Richard"
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This sounds a lot like the grounds need to be cleaned up. I pulled my hair out for 2 months on my wife's Metro until I cleaned the ground wire connected to the tranny really good with sandpaper. The voltage at the battery instantly jumped form 12.2 to 14.1, and I never had a problem with that car again. If you do this, don't just loosen the bolt, and retighten, actually take the bolt out, and sand down the area really good!! It might not be what it is, but it's a cheap and easy fix if it is. |
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| tac2013 | Apr 10 2014, 04:45 PM Post #8 |
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Hey T3RAGTOP.... Thank You ever so much.....your diagnosis was RIGHT ON! It was the connector under the 60 amp fuse. I was able to get my dremel tool with a small dia wire brush into the cavity to clean the male spade connector but the female that is encapsulated in the plastic snap in housing piece was a different story. It had heated and was a little melted in the plastic so I used a small cut off wheel in dremel tool and made slits in part of the housing being careful to not compromise the locking snap in portion, then I bent back the plastic between the slits I made and then I was able to use a small wire wheel in dremel after I used a small screwdriver to open the wrap around portions of the connector and then rebent them back in to position. I wanted to use some kind of acid that would attack the corrosion and not the plastic but I live way out in the boonies and it would of been an hour each way to town. Next time I go to town I plan on getting some dielectric grease to coat the terminals good If it was not for this Geo Forum I would have spent many hours trying to find the problem so once again You Guys ROCKED! ![]() God Bless Patrick Skagit County, Wa. |
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| Memphis metro | Apr 10 2014, 05:53 PM Post #9 |
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When T3 speaks people should listen.
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| t3ragtop | Apr 10 2014, 06:40 PM Post #10 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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tac, if you want to check the alternator's output you place you positive test wire on the threaded post on the rear of it's case under that rubber cover. you just roll the cover back to expose the lug. the 3 smaller wires on the connector provide a control voltage to power the stator and drive the idiot light on the instrument cluster. you really never need to test voltages there. there are externally excited alternators and internally excited alternators. there are bastard designs, too, where the alternator is internally excited but has a wire that provides feedback control from the battery in an attempt to compensate for corrosion induced losses in the wiring. for the next guy to run into this problem, even if you live in the boonies, soak the crudded up connector in coca cola overnight, give the female spade connector a good picking with a tooth pick, and rinse it with clear water. the phosphoric acid in the soda cleans green brass and copper really nicely.
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| maslows | Apr 18 2014, 01:21 PM Post #11 |
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New Member
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I drive a 95 3/5. I'm at my wits end I. I may Have try the sand paper to the ground. My battery wouldn't charge car kept dying back in December. I bought a new alternator, the next day the car wouldn't start so I bought a battery. Driving home the gages went all wacky and the battery light came on. So I went to my brothers. Did some research and replaced all the fuses and did the big 3 upgrade. After replacing the wires on the drive home my clutch went. So I got pissed at the car and said F YOU and let it sit for 3 months. After driving my wife gas guzzling buick I bought A Sachs Kit and new flywheel and a Gator belt. Went to start the car and it wouldn't turn over. Replaced the starter and it was back running. My brother installed the clutch on Saturday. Today my radio kept shutting off intermittently the same as it did before when the alternator wasn't working before. Took it to auto zone and they said some internal part of the alternator died cost $350. I told the guy the alternator cost $125 in December. After we put on the new belt it still squeals tightened that sucker as much as we could with a pry bar. Then we tested the alternator with a multimeter and it was charging properly. Over the span of 5 days I can't fathom what could have died internally in that darn alternator. I'm going to return it an purchase this kit from adventure auto I believe it's the right one from scouring the forums http://stores.adventure-off-rd.com/suzuki-samurai-1-3-1-6-gm-alternator-conversion-bracket/ Edited by maslows, Apr 18 2014, 02:34 PM.
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| t3ragtop | Apr 18 2014, 05:17 PM Post #12 |
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Turbo3 and Twincam Tweaker
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here's the alternator to go along with the bracket and wiring adapter. http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVY-GMC-TRUCK-VAN-105-AMP-OUTPUT-ALTERNATOR-87-93-/130682233716?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e6d44a374&vxp=mtr#ht_2982wt_902 |
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| Richard123vmt | Apr 20 2014, 04:38 PM Post #13 |
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You've got to get in better touch with the car even if you don't do the work. For example I had a loose clip when it connects my to solenoid. It slipped off. This meant the starter would not work. But all it took was a slight tweak with a pliers and now it doesn't fall off any more. Maybe you plug to the altrernator was making a bad connection--or corrosion underneath the fuse box. But if you have a new battery and good alternator you should be able to ferret out the bugs. Although it would be great if sosmeone else would do it for you. |
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| TimmyD | May 10 2014, 11:35 PM Post #14 |
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A Metro Driver
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...OK...maybe this is the problem with my '99 HB that just popped up on Frida Just spent the day removing, then installing, then removing the alternator, then installing a new alternator. Still only seeing 12.4 VDC. I'll check the thingie from the doohickie tomorrow. |
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| nickb803 | May 11 2014, 12:00 AM Post #15 |
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NickB803
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I just upgraded my alternator this past friday. I used the adventure bracket/harness and the alternator in the link T3 provided. It bolted right on to my 1994 3/5. What a huge differance. And I dont have to worry about my amps killing this one! |
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